nate Posted February 20 Share Posted February 20 Ace. We’ve only done one 50 series so can’t give a whole lot of advice. I would agree that 1/4” is too much difference. Be careful, the master clutch has the teflon ring that has to survive so it works correctly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gearclash Posted February 20 Share Posted February 20 10 hours ago, Dan Robinson said: 1/4in difference per side is too much. You're trying to roll it together at an angle. Concur. Get things squared up better. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88power Posted February 20 Share Posted February 20 Ace i've never had a 50 series split that far back so i'm no help but give mike a call he's good at explaining things over the phone maybe with you standing there looking at it with him on the phone yall can figure it out Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
acem Posted February 20 Author Share Posted February 20 I thought 1/4 inch was close enough but maybe not. If Mike doesn't respond by the time my friend gets back from Florida I'll give him a call. I bought the parts from Mike and he's been very helpful whenever I call. Thx-Ace Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oleman Posted February 20 Share Posted February 20 I realize I am preaching to the choir here! When working with blind hole alignment issues we need to use as many close fitting alignment pins as you can get at to remove. Custom made (removable) alignment pins are the best you can do. We have used various length close fitting bolts as dowels by removing the heads and slotting them for screwdriver removal . Major issues are keeping everything square aligned synced and plumb. We have a little (coffing) brand name 1 1/2 T ratchet chain any angle come-a-long it has the ability to move a very small distance to nudge something along. When it refuses to go together completely re investigation and finesse with light pressure is always the best response. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
superih Posted February 21 Share Posted February 21 Get it squared and plumb, then reach through the hole where the filter goes and turn the clutch and speed to range shaft. Not sure what binds, took 3 tries on mine and then it popped right together 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88seriesrestorer Posted February 21 Share Posted February 21 It just an alignment problem. Lock the range in 2 gears this will keep the master from turning. Ive had to put a pliers on the output shaft to get splines lined up on master. The pump,pto driveshaft will line up easy as its tapered and will turn. This is why i always split engine off then the speed trans. Its easier to work with and turnnthings. The engine makes it difficult to turn trans shafts fast to align splines 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZG6E Posted February 22 Share Posted February 22 I don't have any sound advise for you but hopefully I have a little better luck. I split my 54 today for the master clutch. I'm ready to put the clutch back in and roll it together so we will see how it goes. Did you put new Teflon seals on the master clutch? The ones on mine look real good yet so I'm debating leaving them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
acem Posted February 22 Author Share Posted February 22 Thanks for the info. Yes I put new Teflon seals on. The old ones looked fine but... Thx-Ace Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
snoshoe Posted February 22 Share Posted February 22 1 hour ago, ZG6E said: I don't have any sound advise for you but hopefully I have a little better luck. I split my 54 today for the master clutch. I'm ready to put the clutch back in and roll it together so we will see how it goes. Did you put new Teflon seals on the master clutch? The ones on mine look real good yet so I'm debating leaving them. I suggest you slip one off and measure thickness compared to new. May help the decision. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TB5288 Posted February 22 Share Posted February 22 1 hour ago, ZG6E said: I don't have any sound advise for you but hopefully I have a little better luck. I split my 54 today for the master clutch. I'm ready to put the clutch back in and roll it together so we will see how it goes. Did you put new Teflon seals on the master clutch? The ones on mine look real good yet so I'm debating leaving them. I'm curious how you dealt with the lube spray line? I don't see the necessary covers removed in order to disconnect the line. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88seriesrestorer Posted February 22 Share Posted February 22 2 hours ago, ZG6E said: I don't have any sound advise for you but hopefully I have a little better luck. I split my 54 today for the master clutch. I'm ready to put the clutch back in and roll it together so we will see how it goes. Did you put new Teflon seals on the master clutch? The ones on mine look real good yet so I'm debating leaving them. Absolutely put the seals and teflons in. Teflons are known for breaking the hooks off 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tractorholic Posted February 22 Share Posted February 22 It would be impossible for me to not put new Teflon’s in. You won’t be able to do it any easier than when you are right there. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nate Posted February 22 Share Posted February 22 19 minutes ago, tractorholic said: It would be impossible for me to not put new Teflon’s in. You won’t be able to do it any easier than when you are right there. You could also say that about the synchro disks a little further back and the speed forward. The fact is the cost of parts is crazy. Personal preference I guess Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tractorholic Posted February 22 Share Posted February 22 2 hours ago, nate said: You could also say that about the synchro disks a little further back and the speed forward. The fact is the cost of parts is crazy. Personal preference I guess I guess I shouldn’t have said that but When we’ve got something apart I like to hope I that it’s the last time We will be in there for a long time. A few dollars extra while in there makes sense to me. Cutting corners usually bites me in the rear. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZG6E Posted February 22 Share Posted February 22 12 hours ago, TB5288 said: I'm curious how you dealt with the lube spray line? I don't see the necessary covers removed in order to disconnect the line. I guess I have no idea what your talking about. I'll go ahead and put the Teflons on - I was just hoping to save the $240 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
acem Posted February 22 Author Share Posted February 22 While she apart we are replacing the master clutch, high/low clutches, synchronizers, etc. The axle bearings have a little play. We plan to replace them next. I'm thinking really hard about the brakes While I'm there. Parts have gone up but I don't expect them to go down... Thx-Ace Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TB5288 Posted February 23 Share Posted February 23 On 2/22/2023 at 10:20 AM, ZG6E said: I guess I have no idea what your talking about. I'll go ahead and put the Teflons on - I was just hoping to save the $240 There's a lube spray pipe that runs along the top left side in the speed transmission, sprays on speed gears and supplies additional lube oil to other areas of the transmission. The only way(that I know of) to split the tractor where you did is to either cut the lube line in half with a tubing cutter or disconnect the lube line in the range transmission. I see the side fuel tank is still installed, so the side plate to access the lube line hasn't been removed and the side plate on the speed transmission is still installed. This is where one would access the lube line to cut in half. Just curious more than anything, maybe I can learn a new trick for the next time I do it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tractorholic Posted February 24 Share Posted February 24 On 2/22/2023 at 3:36 PM, acem said: While she apart we are replacing the master clutch, high/low clutches, synchronizers, etc. The axle bearings have a little play. We plan to replace them next. I'm thinking really hard about the brakes While I'm there. Parts have gone up but I don't expect them to go down... Thx-Ace I would sure think about changing the o rings in the brakes while the axle is off. Mine were kind of flat and before we changed them the first time you used the brakes after you started the tractor you didn’t have them for a few seconds. Now they are right there every time you use them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88seriesrestorer Posted February 24 Share Posted February 24 7 hours ago, TB5288 said: There's a lube spray pipe that runs along the top left side in the speed transmission, sprays on speed gears and supplies additional lube oil to other areas of the transmission. The only way(that I know of) to split the tractor where you did is to either cut the lube line in half with a tubing cutter or disconnect the lube line in the range transmission. I see the side fuel tank is still installed, so the side plate to access the lube line hasn't been removed and the side plate on the speed transmission is still installed. This is where one would access the lube line to cut in half. Just curious more than anything, maybe I can learn a new trick for the next time I do it. The attaches on front and back of speed trans. No need to remove it to splits like they did. It doesnt attach to anyof the range Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TB5288 Posted February 24 Share Posted February 24 15 hours ago, 88seriesrestorer said: The attaches on front and back of speed trans. No need to remove it to splits like they did. It doesnt attach to anyof the range Yeah, I had wires crossed on this deal. I was thinking about when removing front plate when only splitting at engine. Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
acem Posted March 15 Author Share Posted March 15 Got her slid back together today! Took the pump drive off. The pto shaft wasn't quite right. When we got it good it slid right together. Thx-Ace 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
acem Posted March 15 Author Share Posted March 15 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nate Posted March 15 Share Posted March 15 Good deal Ace! If it was easy everyone would wanna do it. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrfred54 Posted March 15 Share Posted March 15 Knew you would get it. Sometimes things go right and sometimes its a struggle 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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