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alternator / regulator connection


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On a delco-remy alternator and its separated regulator I have a doubt on how to connect... I had them tested by a specialist and he gave me some advices but I want to confirm from here...

The F from the alternator goes to the F on the regulator

Ground and batt on the alternator is easy to know

on the regulator:

4 goes to the lamp on the dashboard

2 and 3 are positives, but only one is necessary? Does it need a lot of amps and from the battery or the ignition switch?

If someone has the truth... thanks in advance!

 

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The simplest explanation is voltage is supplied by key switch through bulb to ground. Light bulb is lit. Alternator starts charging sends voltage from R terminal which meets voltage from bulb so no flow. Bulb goes out. It is more complicated than that as a relay is involved and R terminal voltage is half wave rectified so only 6-7 volts.

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I'm afraid my explanation was too simplistic and based more on the si. The DN lacks self excitation. You're going to need the R terminal to make the light work. Those alternators are not that hard to work on. All screws no soldering. If you have no source of parts. It's not that hard to go inside and attach a pigtail to the rectifier and feed it out the case.

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9 minutes ago, François02 said:

The guy who tested the alternator tried to open it and had broken a screw... he stopped instead of break all screws

A modest amount of heat from propane torch applied to aluminum right over threads does wonders.

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I called a specialist today and there is 4 solutions:

_ fix the R terminal (if possible) and do the original harness (+ find a resistor)

_ buy a new alternator and do the original harness (+ find a resistor)

_ buy a new alternator with integrated regulator

_ live my life without the lamp, and the day the alternator does not work I will not have lights, or starter :D

 

I think I will choose the last solution

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These are very easy to work on.

If you can get it apart, put a new brush holder in it and you will then have a new R terminal.

The only thing needed is a piece of baling wire or a paper clip to go through the small slot under the R terminal.

That is fed through as you compress the brushes into their springs and they are held in place with the wire.

When you have both brushes compressed, you can put it back together and when all is well, pull out the wire and the brushes then hit the slip rings as they should.

These are not complicated at all.

Sounds like some heat applied to the case in the right spot and the rest of the bolts will come loose for you. 

Around here, we can get parts. Unsure what you have available there.

 

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26 minutes ago, François02 said:

Is the resistance essential on the original system?

how many ohms? (not available from case ih here)

We can have a lot of parts but I don't know the reference

Purpose of resistor is so that alternator still works if bulb burns out. Not essential. Have seen small bulbs cause you to have to rev engine to get alternator started. Not a problem with 1895 bulb. May or may not be a problem with an led. Have seen resistors from 10-25 ohms work.

The ignition ballast resistor from the gas tractors should work.

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I opened the alternator

it is not hard indeed

I will change the holder, it is available here (12.50€, the same in $)

about the resistor, when I put the reference on google it finds me results on ebay or amazon and in the description it is said "to convert 12V to 6V"

https://www.ebay.com/itm/401741722878

https://www.amazon.com/Somniume-107558C1-Ignition-Resistor-Converts/dp/B08LHLZ4YH

https://www.mycnhistore.com/fr/fr/caseih/catgorie/lectrique-lectronique/feo/resistance/p/107558C1

ref is #107558C1

And in my case, the ignition switch is in the left side of the steering wheel and it is a "pushing button", and the switch which come from the battery is a 1/4 turn with a key in the right side of the steering wheel

It is a lot of wires

 

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Believe you are calling the starter button an ignition switch. We call the key switch an ignition switch. Should be only two terminals. Can be misleading as there is no electric ignition. As I mentioned earlier. The fuel gauge is a good place to pickup keyed power or you can use the key switch if you prefer.

The resistor listed is a ballast resistor and as I said should work.

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Looking good.

You have expanded your horizons and am now officially a Delco 10DN alternator mechanic.

Put a bit of grease in the back bearing before putting it together. Not to much so it oozes out.

Congratulations.

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On 2/1/2023 at 8:22 AM, snoshoe said:

Purpose of resistor is so that alternator still works if bulb burns out.

My Starter/ Alternator rebuilder told me that the resistor is to protect the alternator in a situation where the engine is not running, but key left on.  On most systems there won't be any feed to the field circuit if the bulb is burned out. 

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47 minutes ago, Farmall Doctor said:

My Starter/ Alternator rebuilder told me that the resistor is to protect the alternator in a situation where the engine is not running, but key left on.  On most systems there won't be any feed to the field circuit if the bulb is burned out. 

On systems without indicator lights. That is the only purpose I could ever figure for it. In my own tests I could not find it necessary. Maybe key on, engine off and battery charger connected? Never tried that. On IH systems with indicator lights. Resistor is always wired in parallel to the bulb.

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6 hours ago, Diesel Doctor said:

Looking good.

You have expanded your horizons and am now officially a Delco 10DN alternator mechanic.

Put a bit of grease in the back bearing before putting it together. Not to much so it oozes out.

Congratulations.

Thanks a lot for your help

In fact, it is not hard to open, much easier than a Bosch from a Magnum!

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