François02 Posted January 31 Share Posted January 31 On a delco-remy alternator and its separated regulator I have a doubt on how to connect... I had them tested by a specialist and he gave me some advices but I want to confirm from here... The F from the alternator goes to the F on the regulator Ground and batt on the alternator is easy to know on the regulator: 4 goes to the lamp on the dashboard 2 and 3 are positives, but only one is necessary? Does it need a lot of amps and from the battery or the ignition switch? If someone has the truth... thanks in advance! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rbeckman Posted January 31 Share Posted January 31 Here is a picture from 1962 Introducing the Delcotron. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
François02 Posted January 31 Author Share Posted January 31 the "R" pin is not on my alternator anymore (perhaps it never existed?) so the wire which come from the regulator (#4) to the lamp has + in it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
td9inidaho Posted January 31 Share Posted January 31 By the looks of the diagram, yes, but is controlled by the ign switch, not hot all the time That's how I am reading that diagram Mark Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
snoshoe Posted January 31 Share Posted January 31 The simplest explanation is voltage is supplied by key switch through bulb to ground. Light bulb is lit. Alternator starts charging sends voltage from R terminal which meets voltage from bulb so no flow. Bulb goes out. It is more complicated than that as a relay is involved and R terminal voltage is half wave rectified so only 6-7 volts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
François02 Posted January 31 Author Share Posted January 31 why doing simple when you can do it complicated... I check a bit better my alternator and the R pin is broken and I cannot repair it I don't have the resistor, and my ignition switch is only with 2 pins... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rbeckman Posted January 31 Share Posted January 31 Here is a picture to use an ammeter. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
snoshoe Posted January 31 Share Posted January 31 Hot terminal of fuel gauge is a good source of keyed power. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
François02 Posted January 31 Author Share Posted January 31 if I made the wiring diagram with the ammeter, I can't have the lamp? Do I have the choice to keep the light, without the R wire? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
François02 Posted January 31 Author Share Posted January 31 a friend send me this Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
snoshoe Posted January 31 Share Posted January 31 I'm afraid my explanation was too simplistic and based more on the si. The DN lacks self excitation. You're going to need the R terminal to make the light work. Those alternators are not that hard to work on. All screws no soldering. If you have no source of parts. It's not that hard to go inside and attach a pigtail to the rectifier and feed it out the case. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
François02 Posted January 31 Author Share Posted January 31 The guy who tested the alternator tried to open it and had broken a screw... he stopped instead of break all screws Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
snoshoe Posted January 31 Share Posted January 31 9 minutes ago, François02 said: The guy who tested the alternator tried to open it and had broken a screw... he stopped instead of break all screws A modest amount of heat from propane torch applied to aluminum right over threads does wonders. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
François02 Posted February 1 Author Share Posted February 1 I called a specialist today and there is 4 solutions: _ fix the R terminal (if possible) and do the original harness (+ find a resistor) _ buy a new alternator and do the original harness (+ find a resistor) _ buy a new alternator with integrated regulator _ live my life without the lamp, and the day the alternator does not work I will not have lights, or starter I think I will choose the last solution Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Diesel Doctor Posted February 1 Share Posted February 1 These are very easy to work on. If you can get it apart, put a new brush holder in it and you will then have a new R terminal. The only thing needed is a piece of baling wire or a paper clip to go through the small slot under the R terminal. That is fed through as you compress the brushes into their springs and they are held in place with the wire. When you have both brushes compressed, you can put it back together and when all is well, pull out the wire and the brushes then hit the slip rings as they should. These are not complicated at all. Sounds like some heat applied to the case in the right spot and the rest of the bolts will come loose for you. Around here, we can get parts. Unsure what you have available there. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
François02 Posted February 1 Author Share Posted February 1 Is the resistance essential on the original system? how many ohms? (not available from case ih here) We can have a lot of parts but I don't know the reference Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
snoshoe Posted February 1 Share Posted February 1 26 minutes ago, François02 said: Is the resistance essential on the original system? how many ohms? (not available from case ih here) We can have a lot of parts but I don't know the reference Purpose of resistor is so that alternator still works if bulb burns out. Not essential. Have seen small bulbs cause you to have to rev engine to get alternator started. Not a problem with 1895 bulb. May or may not be a problem with an led. Have seen resistors from 10-25 ohms work. The ignition ballast resistor from the gas tractors should work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
François02 Posted February 1 Author Share Posted February 1 I opened the alternator it is not hard indeed I will change the holder, it is available here (12.50€, the same in $) about the resistor, when I put the reference on google it finds me results on ebay or amazon and in the description it is said "to convert 12V to 6V" https://www.ebay.com/itm/401741722878 https://www.amazon.com/Somniume-107558C1-Ignition-Resistor-Converts/dp/B08LHLZ4YH https://www.mycnhistore.com/fr/fr/caseih/catgorie/lectrique-lectronique/feo/resistance/p/107558C1 ref is #107558C1 And in my case, the ignition switch is in the left side of the steering wheel and it is a "pushing button", and the switch which come from the battery is a 1/4 turn with a key in the right side of the steering wheel It is a lot of wires Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
snoshoe Posted February 1 Share Posted February 1 Believe you are calling the starter button an ignition switch. We call the key switch an ignition switch. Should be only two terminals. Can be misleading as there is no electric ignition. As I mentioned earlier. The fuel gauge is a good place to pickup keyed power or you can use the key switch if you prefer. The resistor listed is a ballast resistor and as I said should work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
François02 Posted February 1 Author Share Posted February 1 OK, that's clearer for me sorry for my english... in the previous diagram (the 1st posted by rbeckman) ACC and IGN are the same in my case (2 terminals in the key switch, one is from Batt)? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
François02 Posted February 1 Author Share Posted February 1 a few pics of the beast all is cleaned! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Diesel Doctor Posted February 2 Share Posted February 2 Looking good. You have expanded your horizons and am now officially a Delco 10DN alternator mechanic. Put a bit of grease in the back bearing before putting it together. Not to much so it oozes out. Congratulations. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Farmall Doctor Posted February 2 Share Posted February 2 On 2/1/2023 at 8:22 AM, snoshoe said: Purpose of resistor is so that alternator still works if bulb burns out. My Starter/ Alternator rebuilder told me that the resistor is to protect the alternator in a situation where the engine is not running, but key left on. On most systems there won't be any feed to the field circuit if the bulb is burned out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
snoshoe Posted February 2 Share Posted February 2 47 minutes ago, Farmall Doctor said: My Starter/ Alternator rebuilder told me that the resistor is to protect the alternator in a situation where the engine is not running, but key left on. On most systems there won't be any feed to the field circuit if the bulb is burned out. On systems without indicator lights. That is the only purpose I could ever figure for it. In my own tests I could not find it necessary. Maybe key on, engine off and battery charger connected? Never tried that. On IH systems with indicator lights. Resistor is always wired in parallel to the bulb. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
François02 Posted February 2 Author Share Posted February 2 6 hours ago, Diesel Doctor said: Looking good. You have expanded your horizons and am now officially a Delco 10DN alternator mechanic. Put a bit of grease in the back bearing before putting it together. Not to much so it oozes out. Congratulations. Thanks a lot for your help In fact, it is not hard to open, much easier than a Bosch from a Magnum! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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