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Tellite on 1066


Coytee

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Just curious if cold has an issue.

Backstory:  This past fall, I parked the 1066.  Cold weather is here however, it's not brutal here in East TN like it can be elsewhere.  That said, it's been cold lately.

Yesterday, had need to move the tractor....batteries are of course, dead...so hook to car while I'm doing some work with backhoe.  Go back to tractor, fire it up.  All I need to do is move it 50 feet so it's out of the way for what I'm doing with the backhoe.  Tellite is on...no worries....  let it idle for a minute....  bump the revs up...  waiting....waiting.... light is still blazing.  No steering.  Finally, I'm questioning myself.... so I have an issue or is it just a weather issue and the Hytran is a bit thick?

Put into gear, I can only drive straight.  Fortunately, it took me down a slope, across "the pond" (dry pond that has four inches of water in it), up other side and land next to the blueberries.

 

So I move it and get back to what I'm doing with the backhoe.

 

We are not having 12 degree weather.  Couple weeks ago, we did have some in the high 20's but it's been upper 30's lower 40's most of the time (to the degree I've paid attention)

All that to paint the picture to ask.....  "if all is well", when stone cold, how long should it take before the light goes out?  I didn't want to take 15 minutes to warm it up just to move it 50 feet.

 

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Might have an air lock where the MCV pump isn't getting Hydraulic oil check dump valve adjustment also water in the system can make things play tricks too How long has it been since you changed the hytran and filter ?

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By calendar, it will be two years this summer.  By hours on tractor, I'm guessing 50-100 hours and that might be a big number.  (I only use it as a lawn mower for fields and this past summer, someone came in for the hay so tractor didn't do much field cutting....  just trimmed around the edges where they didn't cut hay)

 

 

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Didn't think of air in there.  I would (want to think) that once air is purged and all is well, that it would be difficult to get an air lock however, there's a boatload about this that I freely admit I don't know.  Not going to worry about it for while, too many other projects and it's cold.  BUT, to check for airlock, do I recall it's that item on the bottom of the MCV valve....  remove it, either crank engine or start and oil blows out, then stop, replace plug?

 

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2 minutes ago, snoshoe said:

To answer the question. The light should go out as soon as you take your foot off of the clutch after starting.

 

"irrespective of how cold??"

 

I was actually suspecting this to be the answer.... hadn't thought of an air lock but DID think maybe it was low on fluid.  Checked fluid and it was ok there.  I'll purge it and see what happens.  Happens that if needed, I also already have a MCV pump replacement sitting on the shelf...so if it's bad, won't have much downtime.  (I have plenty of downtime before warmer weather comes.....  I don't care for the cold so if I can choose to postpone, I do)

 

 

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Since this lives outside my first guess is water turned to ice. Crack bottom drain plug to check. Second would be lost it's prime. Any one of three plugs will correct that. Letting it run with light on will only hasten pumps demise.  You can type three responses to my one. I have to keep correcting the auto correct (I'm just slow).

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26 minutes ago, snoshoe said:

You can type three responses to my one.

 

Made me laugh.

When I took typing in 8th grade....  there were 30 kids in there, maybe five males.  Big (I mean BIG) Dave Adams sat behind me.  He hunted and pecked to type....  I was the fastest male typer in the class.....but....  I was the second fastest person in the class.  That dear friend of mine Allison could SMOKE on the keyboard.

Teacher was ancient (by the standards of an 8th grader) BUT, she had a VERY white face....and wore bright red lipstick.  She was frankly, a bit scary looking.  She meandered past my desk one day....  said "you play the piano, don't you?"

OMG, I was spooked.  Has she been spying on me?  How did she know?  How COULD she know?

The fear must have shown on my face, she laughed and said she can always tell when someone has played the piano because they have good hand coordination and take to typing faster than others.

I was doing 83 words/minute as a learner.

 

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You can take the plug out of the back of the MCV and crank the engine over till you get oil out the hole. Once you put the plug back in it should pump when you crank it then. MCV pump could be getting weak and you could have some water in the oil if it sets outside. 

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On 1/29/2023 at 4:53 PM, 1967806 said:

You can take the plug out of the back of the MCV and crank the engine over till you get oil out the hole.

Im asking cause I dont know.  How much oil are you talking about?  If engine starts will it be spraying all over the place?  Or do leave the throttle off/close so it doesnt start?  thanks

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Start it as you would normally, but keep your hand on the lever because about three seconds after it fires, maybe only two seconds, oil will fly out of  the plug (I use the 5/8 headed plug) and squirt the rear axle. Maybe if you’re working on a nice concrete floor or blacktop driveway you should be concerned with it, but  I have never been very concerned myself. I’m Talking mayyyybe 6 ounces of fluid, (that’s just a guess, way way less than half a quart anyway)  but it will look like more, because you know how oil spills do that. Some guys have spoken about threading a hose into that port and routing the hose back into the dipstick fill hole or top link cover so that there is no oil lost, I guess that’s a good idea, as long as the hose and flop around and shoot at you, but it seems like an unnecessary expensed compared to how little of a mess the down and dirty fast method makes. 

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The plug under the steering relief valve points straight down. Stick a clean bucket under it. No hose needed and oil can be returned to tractor if desired. Only down side. If you forget to pull relief. You will have to fish it out of bucket. All of these methods work.

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On 1/29/2023 at 6:53 PM, 1967806 said:

You can take the plug out of the back of the MCV and crank the engine over till you get oil out the hole.

Sorry late to ask, I've been in/out of town.

 

Walked the dog earlier, went by tractor...  dawned on me.  On my JCB, if I change fuel filter, or something else, I'll sometimes have to bleed a fuel injector to get it working.  I simply crack injector, machine will start rough...  then as I tighten them, the idle will smooth out.  While it's loose, I will get some fuel spritzing out of the opening and it doesn't take a lot of loosening to make this happen.

 

Could I use this logic on the plug on MCV?  Start engine, crack the plug... when oil spurts, tighten back up and (hope to) call it done?

 

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14 minutes ago, Coytee said:

Sorry late to ask, I've been in/out of town.

 

Walked the dog earlier, went by tractor...  dawned on me.  On my JCB, if I change fuel filter, or something else, I'll sometimes have to bleed a fuel injector to get it working.  I simply crack injector, machine will start rough...  then as I tighten them, the idle will smooth out.  While it's loose, I will get some fuel spritzing out of the opening and it doesn't take a lot of loosening to make this happen.

 

Could I use this logic on the plug on MCV?  Start engine, crack the plug... when oil spurts, tighten back up and (hope to) call it done?

 

Worth a shot

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I’m pretty sure oil will spray out in a 360 Degree, very hard to control pattern. also making it very difficult to tighten the plug in the manner that you might be thinking. You definitely can’t tighten any of those plugs as the tractor is running. Just pull it out, the one with the five eights head, start the tractor, oil flies, shut the tractor off and put a plug back in.  Only one wrench and under 60 seconds for the whole “process”.  

(It’s really not much of a process, although we’re treating it like it is)

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  • 3 weeks later...

You can usually crank it over with throttle off and prime it on all the ones I've done. 

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Cold is the complete issue. It will not bother once it is warm again. Have had more of them over the years that do the same thing. Some prime quick and some need to run an hour. Had it with one of our 1456's. Was our feed wagon tractor. Did a complete MCV OH and new pump, if we used it everyday it was fine. Let it stand a few weeks in butt cold and it still looses it's prime even with a rebuild. There is a mystery in some of those pumps. We have taken several apart that loose prime in the cold and always work when it's warm and seldom see any issue. Have taken some apart that should never prime because of the wear. And there are those tractors that have no pattern at all, loose prime some cold spells and not the next one. I swear it is how they get parked sometimes.

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  • 1 month later...

I'd like to revisit this if I may.

It does seem that (when I started this thread) the colder weather might have been a factor.  Also, for good measure, I dumped 5 gallons of Hytran into it (goodby $150)

Here's the question:  If it was running, light goes out, steering returns...  can this essentially 'self prime'??

 

Reason I'm asking:  Functions have returned.....HOWEVER, every now & then, the tellite will come on.  I've not  yet done it enough to see if there is a pattern but I'd venture to say, rpm's were above 1,200, I was moving.  I noticed the steering feeling a bit wonky....  looked down and the light was on briefly, then went off.

Since I have not cracked the MCV plug I still wonder if that situation (losing prime or air....or heck...water??) would self clear once the machine is warmed up and operational?

Fortunately, I've got a pump on the shelf and MCV rebuild kit in the cabinet so I'm ready to tinker if I need to.

 

 

 

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The system is SUPPOSED to self prime. If it does not, there is something wrong.

This whole thing about "cold" affecting it is baloney. Hy-Tran is something like SAE 10W viscosity. It doesn't get so thick that it won't flow when cold. If you need to run the tractor for a long time to "warm up" the oil to get it to work, there is something wrong. Dad NEVER had to "warm up" the 756. Within 30 seconds of that engine running he was charging out the door of the shed pushing a pile of snow or headed to the heifer barn to scrape up the alley. This was EVERY DAY in ALL WEATHER conditions.

Your pressure is marginal, which is why the tellite comes on so easily. That could be a pump, or it could be leaking internally. Rebuilding the MCV is probably a good place to start. Just a Few Acres Farm recently did an excellent 3(?) part series on rebuilding the MCV in a 756 on youtube. It is the same process, parts, etc. for your 1066.

When TAs start getting worn they leak and bleed off pressure too, so if the MCV doesn't fix it you may be in for a TA job.

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