Gearclash Posted August 31 Share Posted August 31 Rebuilding wheel rake wheels. Last rebuild was in 2017 and around 50,000 bales ago. Usually it is more cost effective to replace the entire rake wheel assembly, but this is a Rowse 48 tine wheel. Just replacing tines is somewhere around $130 per wheel less than a complete assembly, and even if I replace the steel ring too like I did last time it is still around $50 a wheel cheaper to rebuild. I can rebuild 2 wheels an hour; the rest of the R&R is the same. I guess I can do this for $100 an hour. 20 wheels on the rake. This rake operates mostly in corn stalks and bean straw so it has a hard life. 2 of the years were wet which tends to bend and break tines, 2 of the years were dry which tends to wear the tine tips. 12 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oleman Posted September 1 Share Posted September 1 Now I have learned something about rotary rakes, I was gone from the farm when they took over the raking business, all ours were the movine bar rake when I last raked! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WisIHCFarmer Posted September 1 Share Posted September 1 Salvage 5088 that I bought with oil in the coolant, things went south fast! 1 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yellowrosefarm Posted September 1 Share Posted September 1 12 hours ago, Gearclash said: Rebuilding wheel rake wheels. Last rebuild was in 2017 and around 50,000 bales ago. Usually it is more cost effective to replace the entire rake wheel assembly, but this is a Rowse 48 tine wheel. Just replacing tines is somewhere around $130 per wheel less than a complete assembly, and even if I replace the steel ring too like I did last time it is still around $50 a wheel cheaper to rebuild. I can rebuild 2 wheels an hour; the rest of the R&R is the same. I guess I can do this for $100 an hour. 20 wheels on the rake. This rake operates mostly in corn stalks and bean straw so it has a hard life. 2 of the years were wet which tends to bend and break tines, 2 of the years were dry which tends to wear the tine tips. Wow, is all I've got to say. You aren't letting any moss grow between your toes during hay season, for sure. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MT Matt Posted September 2 Share Posted September 2 Worked on the W-6 a little more yesterday. New plugs, wires and reset the timing. Adjusted the valve gap. Wired in a kill switch to the mag. Runs very good now. Has step-head pistons so it has been rebuilt at some point. Needs the distillate head swapped out for a gas head and then I think it would make some power. I took off the pipe seat and swapped it with a better seat from a parts WD-9 I have. Forgot a pic of it, it’s an aftermarket seat but not sure of the brand. Has a box with a large spring for much better travel. One of the bolts had been broke off in the platform. So I welded in a nut and tried to remove it. Nope, after the third try all I got out was a couple threads deep. Looks like it has been drilled and their attempt at removal ended like mine. So I just mounted the seat with three bolts. It is the rear bolt so I doubt it will be a problem. Anyone have a suggestion for removal? Just keep welding a nut on and hope for the best? Will the weld attach to the cast? 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gearclash Posted September 2 Share Posted September 2 1 hour ago, MT Matt said: Nope, after the third try all I got out was a couple threads deep. Looks like it has been drilled and their attempt at removal ended like mine If you have access to a good solid tight mag drill, you could use a carbide end mill to chew out the remaining bolt. Need to go a size smaller than the bolt, gut the middle out, then carefully enlarge the hole up to the female threads. The remaining bolt threads can usually be unwound. 3 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iowaboy1965 Posted September 2 Share Posted September 2 My project for the day/weekend 8 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MT Matt Posted September 3 Share Posted September 3 12 hours ago, Gearclash said: If you have access to a good solid tight mag drill, you could use a carbide end mill to chew out the remaining bolt. Need to go a size smaller than the bolt, gut the middle out, then carefully enlarge the hole up to the female threads. The remaining bolt threads can usually be unwound. My 82 year old machinist buddy likely has just that. If this project gets to the head of the line, I’ll see if he wants a go at it. Thanks for the idea! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
searcyfarms Posted September 3 Share Posted September 3 Brace yourself its the first tractor i ever drove - i was the designated driver of the hay wagon - 1st gear at a slow throttle i could pull the hand clutch and stand on both brakes as needed lol - no clue what brand cultipacker - maybe brillion? - obvious disc - used atv seeder - alfalfa - clover - wheat food plots for deer - and this wonky deer showed up i named him jester 9 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dirt_Floor_Poor Posted September 3 Share Posted September 3 On 9/2/2023 at 8:51 AM, MT Matt said: Worked on the W-6 a little more yesterday. New plugs, wires and reset the timing. Adjusted the valve gap. Wired in a kill switch to the mag. Runs very good now. Has step-head pistons so it has been rebuilt at some point. Needs the distillate head swapped out for a gas head and then I think it would make some power. I took off the pipe seat and swapped it with a better seat from a parts WD-9 I have. Forgot a pic of it, it’s an aftermarket seat but not sure of the brand. Has a box with a large spring for much better travel. One of the bolts had been broke off in the platform. So I welded in a nut and tried to remove it. Nope, after the third try all I got out was a couple threads deep. Looks like it has been drilled and their attempt at removal ended like mine. So I just mounted the seat with three bolts. It is the rear bolt so I doubt it will be a problem. Anyone have a suggestion for removal? Just keep welding a nut on and hope for the best? Will the weld attach to the cast? I keep Harris Super Missileweld rod just for this. Weld a flat washer to the broken bolt then weld a nut to the washer. I can usually build it up if it is just below flush without any problem. The rod is expensive, but can often work miracles. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
searcyfarms Posted September 4 Share Posted September 4 9 hours ago, Dirt_Floor_Poor said: I keep Harris Super Missileweld rod just for this 9 hours ago, Dirt_Floor_Poor said: I keep Harris Super Missileweld rod just for this. Weld a flat washer to the broken bolt then weld a nut to the washer. I can usually build it up if it is just below flush without any problem. The rod is expensive, but can often work miracles. you guys must hv better luck what that stuff than I do stuff always breaks off again, then i drill hole then i try an easy out and pffff it breaks then i cant get it out and then got all kinds of trubles Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dirt_Floor_Poor Posted September 4 Share Posted September 4 9 minutes ago, searcyfarms said: I have had good luck with Super Missileweld. Some welding houses in KC will sell it a rod at a time. Sometimes there just is no good answer though. That stuff will weld tool steel, so if you do break an easy out or a tap, you can weld on to it and turn it out. A corroded bolt is no place for an easy out, but they are sometimes useful in certain situations. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IHandJDman Posted September 5 Share Posted September 5 Trying to get my John Deere B running again. It's a 1949 that my Grandpa bought new and gave to me on my 12th birthday. Also, I pulled out our FB-B drill to get it ready to plant some grass hay mix. 5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
searcyfarms Posted September 6 Share Posted September 6 14 hours ago, IHandJDman said: Trying to get my John Deere B running again. It's a 1949 that my Grandpa bought new and gave to me on my 12th birthday. Also, I pulled out our FB-B drill to get it ready to plant some grass hay mix. thats cool ours is a 49 B also must have been brothers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IHKeith Posted September 9 Share Posted September 9 Working on derby trucks and cars for my local fair tonight 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Finney Posted September 11 Share Posted September 11 A new type hay spear for our area. The spears flod up. A local cattle operation bought a new deutz with a loader and it came with one but would not handle hayledge. Owner wanted that would handle it so I delivered this morning. They tried it today and called and wants 3 more. 9 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DT Fan Posted September 11 Share Posted September 11 Pulled the fuel shutoff off the 826, it was clogged with some tar looking stuff. Cleaned it out and put back in. Will see if there’s good fuel flow tomorrow. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Finney Posted September 14 Share Posted September 14 Straighten and untwist a feeder house. First straighten the lip the head sits on, couldn't figure out how it was bent in the middle and not on the ends. Then build a frame to untwist it. It was 5.4 degrees out between the front and back. I got it back to within .1 degree and stopped. 15 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DT Fan Posted September 14 Share Posted September 14 Dual hubs for the 7/856. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mountain Heritage Posted September 14 Share Posted September 14 2 hours ago, Finney said: Straighten and untwist a feeder house. First straighten the lip the head sits on, couldn't figure out how it was bent in the middle and not on the ends. Then build a frame to untwist it. It was 5.4 degrees out between the front and back. I got it back to within .1 degree and stopped. That is crazy! Nice job. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alan Dinan Posted September 16 Share Posted September 16 Bought this 715 with both heads. 1232 hours, corn and soybean special, AC, hydro, and diesel. 810 platform 844 corn head. It has been sitting in the shed since 1990 and hasn’t been started in that time. Taking some new batteries and fresh fuel and filters. Hopefully it will fire 🤞🏻And get it loaded onto the detach. 9 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iowaboy1965 Posted September 16 Share Posted September 16 Working on some pasture fence last few days. No pics tho. Keep forgetting 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DT Fan Posted September 16 Share Posted September 16 That's a pretty good looking combine Alan. Rear tires might leave a little to be desired... To elaborate on the dual hubs above. I bought them at a consignment auction back in 2020, I think. Came with a set of 18.4x34" duals. During my failed attempt to change tread spacing on the 856 I got to thinking, taking both wheels/castings off at the same time with the tractor sitting on jack-stands is kind of sketchy! I could see something going horribly wrong. Current plan is to remove one side, install hub/dual, then remove other side and swap.Keeping the tractor on three feet at all times, should be safer. Other reason is, going to put them on the 756 and disc some cornstalks with it this fall. Took all the u-bolts out and cleaned up the threads, ran a tap through the nuts. Just happened to have a 7/8-14 tap in stock. Wire brushed the studs, all threads seem happy now. Had to buy lug-nuts as these came without any. Sad part of the story, I now have more in nuts than in the duals/hubs! Well, maybe that just means I got a good deal on the duals/hubs? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alan Dinan Posted September 16 Share Posted September 16 4 hours ago, DT Fan said: That's a pretty good looking combine Alan. Rear tires might leave a little to be desired Looks a little better now …. I found some tires on rims that hold a higher pressure!! lol 😂 7 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
just Dave Posted September 16 Share Posted September 16 On 8/25/2023 at 8:16 PM, MT Matt said: The pipe in the manifold from my Super MTA let go. I bought a 2” tap and it showed up today. Used the biggest pipe wrench I had and a lot of tap magic. Worked it back and worth slowly and cleaned up the threads as best I could. $62 for the tap was worth it. The pipe tightened up just before running out of threads. I’ll see if I can find a tube of muffle sealant tomorrow at Napa and hopefully it won’t come loose again. If you have a pipe machine or access to one….open the pipe dies up a little big and cut yourself an oversized nipple on the manifold end. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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