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Anybody have an EcoBoost F150?


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3 hours ago, yellowrosefarm said:

I always thought you bought a 3/4 or 1 ton for the stronger axles and frame, than for the motor. But, in 3 pages I didn't see any one mention that. So, I'm assuming the running gear on these F150's really is up to the task of pulling large trailers?

No it isn't as heavy duty, axles and frame are lighter.  

Oddly my 7.3 6-speed was rated 10,000lb bumper pull and my 150 is rated 11,200lb bumper pull. 

 

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I was close.  Owned both. Towed with both. To plow snow and tow heavy trailers every day, 7.3.   But then you need a separate vehicle to drive as a car, to save $5-6 diesel. 
To drive as a car, and tow occasionally, but more than croc wearing “weekend warrior” status, 3.5. 
actually my ‘11 3.5 handled 34.4” ten ply tires, with less of a drop in mpg than any diesel pickup we’ve ever had. 

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2 hours ago, 495man said:

No it isn't as heavy duty, axles and frame are lighter.  

Oddly my 7.3 6-speed was rated 10,000lb bumper pull and my 150 is rated 11,200lb bumper pull. 

 

And check out the tow rating on a new gas 3/4 ton ford, mine is going to be a 350 SRW, no specific ratings were released last I looked but there were suggesting 21k if properly optioned with 7.3. 
also not intending to take a swing at @stronger800at all. I just feel that perhaps the 3.5 has its place in something other than a HD truck, to get similar numbers from a big block push rod 444 cube gas engine and a 3.5l 6 cyl that engine is being pushed to its limits, no different than doing the same job with an H or an M , both will handle a 2 bottom plow but with the same maintenance doing the same job for the same amount of hours there will be a whole lot more left of the M . 
 

my brother has an ecoboost in a 22’ and i am duely impressed. I think for someone who spends 80 percent of their time empty and 20% towing a moderate camper or equipment trailer these modern half tons can well replace what a 3/4 would have been doing 25 years ago.

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7 hours ago, iowaboy1965 said:

Adding to what VT said, thing to remember is your forcing air and fuel into those cylinders via the turbos. Stuff has to be getting by the rings and containing the oil, especially as the engine ages with mileage.  

The cam phasers and other valve train related parts don't like dirty oil over time from things I and others have read and experienced.

Someone else here said to change your oil at 4000 instead of the recommended by Ford 5000m to help the phasers ect. I don't have an eco boost 150 but do have 2010 sho ecoboost. I am using the motorcraft semi synthetic 5-20 and filters. Was going 5000 and sometimes more when I forgot. 150,000 and it will start to clatter at cold start up if I let it go too long. Did several 4000 m or less oil changes along with Lucas oil stabilizer for synthetic oil and it has pretty much went away. Will start to do it sometimes if I'm getting long on miles again. So I shoot for 3 to 4000m on oil changes now. The last time I did get to 5 before I changed it without the clatter but I think more often is not a bad thing on these engines.

Bottom line if your oil is dirty change it.

Yea I don't have the turbos but the rest of it is valid. So I guess I'm better off running a cheaper oil and changing it more often then spending money on a higher mileage oil? The oil does turn a light brown by the time I change it

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8 hours ago, vtfireman85 said:

personally I think that is too long, someone here is going to argue with me, perhaps even show me charts and graphs, links to articles etc etc. contaminants build up over time, IMO the issue is far less how stupendous the oil is as to how much crap got in it, if I go over 3 K on my GM 6.0 or the Toyota 4.0 the oil is darker than if I got it done at 3K say whatever you want, I bet you will find the same. for my money I use a high quality oil, GM calls for DEXOS certified, so that's what I use and a high quality filter, it is cheap insurance, I am not looking to get every penny out of my oil change. 

additionally how often are you checking it? if I tried to go 10 or even 7K on the previous Subarus they would have used a 2 full oil changes worth of oil before I ever pulled the plug, if its burning that much crap its making carbon. that oil went in clear as water and came out the color of Coca Cola.

I check it periodically and right at about 4,000 I end up putting in a half a quart. And I suppose by the time I change it, it may be another quarter quart. I run it on the high end so it's never been below the add mark. When I used NAPA synthetic it'd burn 2 quarts in 5,000 miles. That's why I changed brands. So I should maybe use a cheaper mobil1 synthetic and change it more often?

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3 minutes ago, Farming Enthusiast said:

I check it periodically and right at about 4,000 I end up putting in a half a quart. And I suppose by the time I change it, it may be another quarter quart. I run it on the high end so it's never been below the add mark. When I used NAPA synthetic it'd burn 2 quarts in 5,000 miles. That's why I changed brands. So I should maybe use a cheaper mobil1 synthetic and change it more often?

Opinions on this are as varied as it is possible to be. I run NAPA synthetic, which I believe to be made by Valvoline, since my aunt died we made the switch from Gulf to NAPA, i run it in everything but the diesels, no noteworthy consumption in any of them over a 3K period and I never need to add anything. The Subarus gobbled oil no matter if you ran Subaru oil, mobile 1 or bar and chain. Only Engine issue we have had here in a modern vehicle was a  5.7 that had a major valve train failure at 50K and GM stood behind it following the dealer tear down and assessment. 
bottom line is do what works for you, i am not an engineer, scientist or ASE certified mechanic, just a guy with a big fleet to maintain and i feel much more comfortable with more frequent oil changes. 

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On 1/13/2023 at 11:15 AM, Ron Cook said:

I would for sure go for that, but I get a kick out of folks looking for a way to dim the headlights.

Ron

My kid brother, who is 24, asked me the other day "what that extra pedal is for " in my farm truck... he was talking about the clutch pedal... and he grew up on a farm!

Mac

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6 hours ago, MacAR said:

My kid brother, who is 24, asked me the other day "what that extra pedal is for " in my gmc farm truck... he was talking about the clutch pedal... and he grew up on a farm!

Mac

My kid joked he could leave the keys in his Jeep in the HS parking lot with no fear that anyone could drive it away.

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12 hours ago, vtfireman85 said:

And check out the tow rating on a new gas 3/4 ton ford, mine is going to be a 350 SRW, no specific ratings were released last I looked but there were suggesting 21k if properly optioned with 7.3. 
also not intending to take a swing at @stronger800at all. I just feel that perhaps the 3.5 has its place in something other than a HD truck, to get similar numbers from a big block push rod 444 cube gas engine and a 3.5l 6 cyl that engine is being pushed to its limits, no different than doing the same job with an H or an M , both will handle a 2 bottom plow but with the same maintenance doing the same job for the same amount of hours there will be a whole lot more left of the M . 
 

my brother has an ecoboost in a 22’ and i am duely impressed. I think for someone who spends 80 percent of their time empty and 20% towing a moderate camper or equipment trailer these modern half tons can well replace what a 3/4 would have been doing 25 years ago.

That's about it, if you tow or haul heavy all the time, 3/4 ton or bigger is the ticket. Especially considering the tow ratings they have now. 

Mileage wise I am towing about 1/3 of the time so smaller truck works fine for my use. 

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21 hours ago, Farming Enthusiast said:

I have a 2011 super crew with the 5.0. I use Mobil1 10,000 mile full synthetic with 10,000 mile oil filter. I also have a 2015 Traverse that I do the same with. I change oil on them at 7,000 miles. I only tow my RZR4 with it a few times a year. Any experience or opinions on whether that's too long? I grew up changing conventional oil every 3,000 but these new oils are supposed to be so much better

If you’re concerned take some oil samples and send them out. 

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I don't care what the company, dealer, computer or someone else says, I change my dinosaur oil at 3,000 miles religiously.

If you are using the synthetic, you may be able to stretch that a bit more.

There is no cheaper insurance and preventative maintenance than changing the oil and filter.

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Late in seeing this thread, but my work truck is a ‘21 F150 with the 3.5 and 3.73 locking rear. Optioned out for work in CC XL package. Pulls like freight train. I’m up to about 30,000 miles in 18 months. Spends a lot of time off road in the mud, hauls fuel tank, occasionally a bumper pull trailer loaded pretty heavy with small equipment. It’s been troublefree, an excellent truck. It just needs more ground clearance. It would almost out pull my ‘18 F350 6.2 with 4.30 gears. With the 350 and gooseneck you don’t get that tail waggin the dog feeling though. 

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Everyone certainly has oil opinions. My GM  trucks tell me when they want the oil changed and that it is supposed to be Dexos. I comply and have yet to have a problem. I've no idea how many miles between changes. Supposedly the PCM evaluates the type of driving and makes the suggestion accordingly. It's likely somewhere in the 4-5k range on Dexos synthetic oil.

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So I looked it up:

Q: How many miles can I expect to go between oil changes when using this system?

A: It will vary. The beauty of the GM Oil Life System is that it automatically adjusts the oil-change interval based upon engine characteristics, your driving habits, and the climate in which you have been operating your vehicle. For instance, mild highway driving in a warm climate will maximize the interval between required oil changes. Depending on the vehicle, this could be as high as 12,000 miles. On the other hand, short-trip driving in a cold climate may limit the interval between oil changes to 3,000 miles or less. In general, most people who combine city and highway driving find that the GM Oil Life System will indicate the vehicle needs an oil change every 5,000 to 6,000 miles. Most people maintain consistent driving habits. This means their mileage between required oil changes will be consistent.
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2 hours ago, New Englander said:

So I looked it up:

Q: How many miles can I expect to go between oil changes when using this system?

A: It will vary. The beauty of the GM Oil Life System is that it automatically adjusts the oil-change interval based upon engine characteristics, your driving habits, and the climate in which you have been operating your vehicle. For instance, mild highway driving in a warm climate will maximize the interval between required oil changes. Depending on the vehicle, this could be as high as 12,000 miles. On the other hand, short-trip driving in a cold climate may limit the interval between oil changes to 3,000 miles or less. In general, most people who combine city and highway driving find that the GM Oil Life System will indicate the vehicle needs an oil change every 5,000 to 6,000 miles. Most people maintain consistent driving habits. This means their mileage between required oil changes will be consistent.

it may evaluate for appropriate interval, but it does not reset itself i would guess that mine resets every 2 oil changes, maybe 1.5 but I am not good about resetting it and tend to drive around cursing it for 2-3K before taking 30 seconds to reset. my 14 is a W/T and only has the little trip reset pin in the middle of the cluster, not the buttons on the side like an SL would have. have to go through the process of key-on-off accelerator pump to reset and i never think of it until i am driving down the road. 

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1 hour ago, vtfireman85 said:

it may evaluate for appropriate interval, but it does not reset itself i would guess that mine resets every 2 oil changes, maybe 1.5 but I am not good about resetting it and tend to drive around cursing it for 2-3K before taking 30 seconds to reset. my 14 is a W/T and only has the little trip reset pin in the middle of the cluster, not the buttons on the side like an SL would have. have to go through the process of key-on-off accelerator pump to reset and i never think of it until i am driving down the road. 

Key on, engine off, three full throttle actuation too much? First start will bring up the notice again, do it then.

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8 minutes ago, New Englander said:

Key on, engine off, three full throttle actuation too much? First start will bring up the notice again, do it then.

i am already moving by the time the display stops cycling.

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4 hours ago, New Englander said:

Everyone certainly has oil opinions. My GM  trucks tell me when they want the oil changed and that it is supposed to be Dexos. I comply and have yet to have a problem. I've no idea how many miles between changes. Supposedly the PCM evaluates the type of driving and makes the suggestion accordingly. It's likely somewhere in the 4-5k range on Dexos synthetic oil.

 

4 hours ago, New Englander said:

So I looked it up:

Q: How many miles can I expect to go between oil changes when using this system?

A: It will vary. The beauty of the GM Oil Life System is that it automatically adjusts the oil-change interval based upon engine characteristics, your driving habits, and the climate in which you have been operating your vehicle. For instance, mild highway driving in a warm climate will maximize the interval between required oil changes. Depending on the vehicle, this could be as high as 12,000 miles. On the other hand, short-trip driving in a cold climate may limit the interval between oil changes to 3,000 miles or less. In general, most people who combine city and highway driving find that the GM Oil Life System will indicate the vehicle needs an oil change every 5,000 to 6,000 miles. Most people maintain consistent driving habits. This means their mileage between required oil changes will be consistent.

It’s common knowledge that changing the oil based on the oil life minder tends to result in premature problems with the AFM on the GM AFM engines.   

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It sounds like oil changes are a pain. Luckily on mine I don't deal with it myself. I have priced out OEM oil and filter for my 2.7 and found it to be more expensive than me just having the Ford garage do it in their Quicklane bay.

About $65 locally for the oil and filter and only $55 for the Quicklane bay to do it for me.

I don't have to deal with it plus I'm getting the OEM filter and oil.

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3 hours ago, Gearclash said:

 

It’s common knowledge that changing the oil based on the oil life minder tends to result in premature problems with the AFM on the GM AFM engines.   

Where's that information?

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3 hours ago, Gearclash said:

 

It’s common knowledge that changing the oil based on the oil life minder tends to result in premature problems with the AFM on the GM AFM engines.   

So I looked it up. I found plenty of info that using a non-Dexos oil or any cheap or non synthetic oil contributes to lifter problems but nothing that suggests the oil life minder is at fault. Apparently there are batches of faulty lifters out there as well but not my year. We have only one 5.3 with AFM and it's around 175k +/- if memory serves. So far, so good.😁

I also read the early one suck oil through the PVC contributing both to stuck rings and high oil consumption. Dodged that one as well. Hopefully we won't have any issues while in our custody as I'd rather not be changing lifters, push rods, etc.

Deactivate AFM? Well, so far it's working well. I can tell when it shifts but my wife cannot. Of course there's a dash display if one is curious. I'm going to stick to using good oil and chance it and hopefully my luck holds.

 

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I have a 2016 3.5 eco. 110,000 on the clock. It pulls a '33 5th wheel camper from time to time. Been good so far. Pulls like a scalded dog. Look up fordtechmackuloco on youtube. He has a ton of eco videos. My wifes explorer has a 3.5 eco as well and its been good. Its a 2014. Hasnt cracked 100,000 yet. Beware of the post 2016 ecos. They changed some things that rear their ugly head before 100,000.

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