vtfireman85 Posted December 17, 2022 Share Posted December 17, 2022 Have a first gen electric fisher minute mount plow. When i put it on this year it raised and angled but the pump stuck on. I figured solenoid, si I changed it, but no help, so i said ice, changed fluid, pulled coil packs and cartridges took hoses loose and pushed blade back and forth to purge cylinders. Found no evidence of contamination, but flushed none the less. In all of this I discovered that angling left makes the pump quit. It doesn’t stick every time but probably 80% of the time. On the way to work I stopped to poke my neighbors trash can out of the road. The pump quit all together, I found it was full of moisture and completely corroded, put a new pump motor on and it works but is still sticking. if the motor is engaged the solenoid must be pulled in, if the solenoid is pulled in it must be getting power. This leaves me to either plugs, or controller. The plugins look clean and still have their little rubber boots. The control is the small electronic joystick type, which I admittedly fiddle with absentmindedly while driving. It feels normal, but who knows. any other thoughts? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeeper61 Posted December 17, 2022 Share Posted December 17, 2022 If you pull the wire off the joystick for the left angle does it stop? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vtfireman85 Posted December 17, 2022 Author Share Posted December 17, 2022 8 minutes ago, jeeper61 said: If you pull the wire off the joystick for the left angle does it stop? Dunno, its all in a little modular plug, not quite that simple. Control is different, but plug is just like this. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vtfireman85 Posted December 17, 2022 Author Share Posted December 17, 2022 Unplugging the control harness at the bumper has no effect on stopping it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
edwardporter1 Posted December 17, 2022 Share Posted December 17, 2022 I would check the continuity from pump solenoids to controller. Fishers are pretty bulletproof. But sh*t happens. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hobbyfarm Posted December 17, 2022 Share Posted December 17, 2022 Where are you getting parts? Storks would help you I bet although diagnostics over the phone aren't fun. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vtfireman85 Posted December 17, 2022 Author Share Posted December 17, 2022 6 minutes ago, hobbyfarm said: Where are you getting parts? Storks would help you I bet although diagnostics over the phone aren't fun. Couple local dealers, but mine is so old no one would be much interested in stocking anything, i keep a good supply of stuff, pump motors, cylinders, packing kits, solenoids etc, i have a spare controller but some jerk cut the harness rather than unplug it🤬 it will take me some time to splice it in, and then what if it is an issue? I have a couple folks who might have a spare I could try out to experiment, but they have all been up all morning so i don’t want to call until tomorrow. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeeper61 Posted December 17, 2022 Share Posted December 17, 2022 39 minutes ago, vtfireman85 said: Dunno, its all in a little modular plug, not quite that simple. Control is different, but plug is just like this. Look for a Pin out diagram this maybe it There are 3 solenoids If you have pin tool you can pull the pin 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hobbyfarm Posted December 17, 2022 Share Posted December 17, 2022 If you need parts check them out. They have a lot of minute mount stuff on their website and ship daily. Probably the number 1 plow dealer in PA if not beyond. Storks plows. Bernville PA. I don't have any connection other then they are local and well regarded. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yellowrosefarm Posted December 17, 2022 Share Posted December 17, 2022 I believe on those, any time the motor runs it will angle left on it's own. Is the small ground wire still connected to the battery? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nomorejohndeere Posted December 17, 2022 Share Posted December 17, 2022 I agree it may default to one function or bypass to a certain function I would want to test with a different controller and apply dielectric grease to plug ins and check grounds In the event it still does it could the solenoids be swapped around to see if the problem follows ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rawleigh99 Posted December 17, 2022 Share Posted December 17, 2022 Go online and see if you can get that plug and pins for the Fisher controller you have. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AKwelder Posted December 17, 2022 Share Posted December 17, 2022 I read this, but it’s early and I think I am only firing on a few cylinders, did you check the solenoid? I have seen some corrode and stick closed or open. Or just behave poorly and wierd. The other item, check and clean the ground Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vtfireman85 Posted December 17, 2022 Author Share Posted December 17, 2022 1 hour ago, AKwelder said: I read this, but it’s early and I think I am only firing on a few cylinders, did you check the solenoid? I have seen some corrode and stick closed or open. Or just behave poorly and wierd. The other item, check and clean the ground Solenoid is new, all plow functions work, and stop/start with control. The pump motor keeps running until you bump left. I bypassed the truc/plow plug with a butt splice, to rule out an issue there. Solenoid seems to be fine, and I replaced it Wednesday.. 2 faulty solenoids? Maybe but unlikely, and it is under the hood, and wire between control and solenoid is intact. I think i have a controller issue. Going to grab one from my friend. Motor starts and no plow functions occur when solenoid is jumped. At this point i have disassembled the control, saw nothing telling but who knows. Blew it out with air, only function that works now is float. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vtfireman85 Posted December 17, 2022 Author Share Posted December 17, 2022 2 hours ago, yellowrosefarm said: I believe on those, any time the motor runs it will angle left on it's own. Is the small ground wire still connected to the battery? The small ground doesn’t go all the way, but yes it is connected on both ends Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
New Englander Posted December 17, 2022 Share Posted December 17, 2022 Looks like a standard 6 pin molex .062 or .093 if you need to make a new harness. We used lots of them when I had the Avionics shop. Sorry, no help. I bet if you can find a wire print you can also come up with an electrician. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vtfireman85 Posted December 19, 2022 Author Share Posted December 19, 2022 Still banging my head. In all my messing around I discovered the 2/0 battery cable i had made, crimp terminals with color coded heat shrink, the ground was loose. Did not make any direct effect on the plow but I suspect it was effectively causing charging issues. Those cables connect the batteries, the starter comes off the right one and all the plow stuff comes off the left, but accessories terminate with ring terminals on a stud. My solenoid is now not showing any continuity across the coil which I suspect in all the screwing around with bad batteries ruined it or it was a POS to begin with. i got the new controller to try, i was able to use it to hold the up arrow and jump the solenoid with a screwdriver to raise the plow, my power wire is intact according to my ohm meter and the small solenoid ground is intact also the coil packs are getting signal and controller is getting power. This leaves me to think that i now have a bad solenoid coil and bad control. Time will tell tomorrow when i get my spare solenoid out. now to find some solder on battery terminals 🤔 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vtfireman85 Posted December 19, 2022 Author Share Posted December 19, 2022 Like this I guess Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1466IH Posted December 19, 2022 Share Posted December 19, 2022 13 minutes ago, vtfireman85 said: Like this I guess Those would work. Also look into the solder pellets for those ends. You drop one in the end and heat up the whole thing then just stuff the cable in while still molten. Has Flux and every ready to go Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vtfireman85 Posted December 19, 2022 Author Share Posted December 19, 2022 5 minutes ago, 1466IH said: Those would work. Also look into the solder pellets for those ends. You drop one in the end and heat up the whole thing then just stuff the cable in while still molten. Has Flux and every ready to go Those are pre loaded, whole series of them i have never seen before! rings, mid mounts, offset I haven’t found splices but I bet they are there. https://www.quickcable.com/product-category/battery-terminals-lugs/?yith_wcan=1&product_cat=battery-terminals-lugs&filter_termination-method=solder&query_type_termination-method=and Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1466IH Posted December 19, 2022 Share Posted December 19, 2022 30 minutes ago, vtfireman85 said: Those are pre loaded, whole series of them i have never seen before! rings, mid mounts, offset I haven’t found splices but I bet they are there. https://www.quickcable.com/product-category/battery-terminals-lugs/?yith_wcan=1&product_cat=battery-terminals-lugs&filter_termination-method=solder&query_type_termination-method=and Haven't seen those yet either. This time of year is bad for cables and ends. Guys will go to start a machine when it's cold and don't get anywhere so they throw batteries in it. When new batteries don't do the job they start calling. Would like to know how much money is spent on replacing perfectly good batteries every year all because of bad cables and ends. Just did a 325 cat excavator last week because they didn't keep the batteries tied down. Every time the batteries would move it would pull on the cables until the connections were lose enough it melted the ends off and the studs on the batteries. 4 group 31 cat batteries are cheap and were junk because of $10 worth of 3/8" all thread and a hand full of nuts/washers. Terminal Supply keeps shop stocked with ends, cable and heat shrink. Have a hydraulic crimper so don't use solder much but it comes in handy from time to time Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
New Englander Posted December 19, 2022 Share Posted December 19, 2022 Tinned cable is worth the extra money in my opinion. I favor crimping simply because solder joint have proven so problematic on airplanes that they're simply not used anymore. All aircraft wire is tinned and all connections crimped. West Marine sells tinned cable by the foot and while not cheap you only buy what you need. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
forwhldrv Posted December 19, 2022 Share Posted December 19, 2022 Simple fix 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
int 504 Posted December 19, 2022 Share Posted December 19, 2022 Hamilton Marine has the tinned wire/cables and crimp terminals that heat shrink on after crimping. It all costs more but is essential in a marine environment. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
New Englander Posted December 19, 2022 Share Posted December 19, 2022 The salt on the roads makes it as bad as any marine environment. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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