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Best way to flush a gearbox?


Captian Kirk
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7 minutes ago, stronger800 said:

That’s perfect logic, but I wouldn’t use just  anybody else’s discarded oil, for fear of it having contamination of some sort.   Walmart brand motor oil is $14 a gallon.   Maybe tractor supply yellow bucket stuff is even cheaper? (Never purchased either for use In anything)  but I think it’s what I would do in this case. Get it warm. Or if you have a warm shop, have it all warm, then you only need to go for a short drive, and then let it drain  out overnight.  Everybody here has probably seen oil much milkier than what we’re talking here. Random  machine gear boxes or what not.  

I agree!   He has water problems now, why put someone else’s metal shavings, dirt, etc into the mixture

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My neighbor has a big garage that he heats entirely with waste oil from the local townships and a few trucking businesses. He takes my oil, but he won’t take just any buddy’s oil. He says it’s amazing what you find in the bottom of a barrel that was supposed to have been “good clean used oil” .   

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I keep my used hytran in a barrel, don't put anything in it that I know has shavings or anything bad in it.  I clamp a small vise grip to the end of the pickup tube on the barrel pump so it doesn't pick up what settles to the bottom.  This is what I use to flush with.

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8 minutes ago, Farmall Doctor said:

Some of these guys are treating this thing as if it is a million dollar CVT… it’s just a crash box.  Hydraulics are contained in the top cover, and completely separate.  

X2 

We have used drain hy-tran in many things over the years without any noticable ill effects. We drain into a 1/3 of a 55 gallon drum, scoop out with a plastic gallon windshield washer fluid jug cut off and pour in a 2 1/2 jugs. We leave anything on the bottom of the drain pan that settles or looks bad, when pouring out of the 2 1/2 jugs we don't try to empty completely. 

We had a Case 75XT skid loader that went to 26,000 hours only swapped out the hydrostatic drive pump once around 14,000 hour mark ....

 

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8 minutes ago, bitty said:

X2 

We have used drain hy-tran in many things over the years without any noticable ill effects. We drain into a 1/3 of a 55 gallon drum, scoop out with a plastic gallon windshield washer fluid jug cut off and pour in a 2 1/2 jugs. We leave anything on the bottom of the drain pan that settles or looks bad, when pouring out of the 2 1/2 jugs we don't try to empty completely. 

We had a Case 75XT skid loader that went to 26,000 hours only swapped out the hydrostatic drive pump once around 14,000 hour mark ....

 

now that you have some extra free time you could build yourself a filter cart , with all the equipment you have it would be very handy

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3 minutes ago, hillman said:

now that you have some extra free time you could build yourself a filter cart , with all the equipment you have it would be very handy

I agree. I have a big lubrifiner filter from a Detroit out on a parts truck (unless it was scrapped) I have thought about doing this. My list of ideas grows faster than my time does 👀

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Yeah well, I sold my 75 XT with 2k hr in it, and I’ve been kicking myself ever since. 
Seriously though, I would absolutely use used fluid  from one of you guys for this application, (I use my own like that, and have neighbors that as me for it….to -use it-) but I know a few guys pretty well at work at a local dealership, and I stop by the local independent tractor shop every so often, and I’m not sure I would use their used oil to do -anything- more than lubricate a barn cleaner or self unloading  chain.   

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Oooooo. I have a spare threaded filter head as well, it would actually thread onto the end of my hand pump, how fine of a filter should we use?

 I once changed the oil in my elderly neighbors push lawnmower. Out of curiosity I looked at the air filter, he had replaced it at some point with a square piece of green Scotch-Brite pad. 

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1 hour ago, Farmall Doctor said:

Some of these guys are treating this thing as if it is a million dollar CVT… it’s just a crash box.  Hydraulics are contained in the top cover, and completely separate.  

This is why I've always heard it referred to as a gear box.

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I had the same problem with my 434. For 40 years I never had any problem with dampness or condensation in the gearbox. While I lived out of state, it wound up setting out in the rain some, and that was when I had the problem. No idea where it got in, but it did, and caused a lot of problems. It was in long enough to crater the bearings and everything else in there, and unfortunately, the one bearing that is buried clear in the bottom of the housing is no longer available.

It is much easier to lift the hydraulic tank off, but you may want to lift the shifter cover plate also. That condensation gets into your sliders on your shifter and gums everything up with rust. Take a picture of the fork orientation as you are taking it off. It can be fun getting it back on, especially by yourself, to get the forks in the correct position, but you can do it. That same fluid that is in the rearend is also in the transmission. You should have 3 drain plugs to empty everything. There are basically (3) compartments, and the gear lube will take a while to fill from one to the other when you are refilling it. Let it set a day, and it will level itself out. If your shifter is working fine, and goes into all of the gears, may be best to leave shifter alone, your call.

If it has to set out, buy a tarp, much cheaper.

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I use kerosene ( 5 gallons ) in the Farmall c. Comes out clumps of sludge. Drive around our hills lawn . Best Ive had was 3 times 

filtering out sludge with shop rags.  Then use on next to last try I use long wire brush to clean out hangers,from drain plug  and I find a bonus of parts , with extending magnet , recover wire and pins through in got though in as a joke .

 

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