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IH 434 Right Steering Issue


toisanwu
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Hello,

I discovered this site while searching for information for my International Harvester 434 (Serial # B28059, made in England) that I acquired in an estate auction in hope of using it to plow some raw land to make a big garden. I am new to IH 434 and new to tractors in general. I had problem getting the tractor to raise 3 point linkage.  By reading couple of threads on this website that I figured it was because the isolation valve was closed on the tract.  

Now there is another issue with the tractor: it could hardly steer to the right, with no issue steering to the left. The 434 has power steering.

I jacked up the tractor and disconnected the tie rod to the front right wheel's steering knuckle (term taken out from a part list manual I got off ebay).  The front right wheel cannot steer left or right at all.  It seems the kingpin is stuck.  What is the best approach in freeing up the kingpin?  Unfortunately, the original grease fitting was broken off (see pic). I bought couple of 1/8 27 grease fittings and they don't seem to fit.  Is this the correct size?  The parts manual says "1/8" NPT".  I wonder if the threads in the hole are damaged.  If so, what is the best solution installing a new grease fittings.

I'd like to fix the above issues myself, but unfortunately I am not terribly mechanically inclined, and it might require quite bit of work and tools to get it loose. If anyone who knows any mechanic or shop that can fix this sort of problems in the Ottawa, Ontario area, please let me know.  

Thanks in advance for the help.

IH 434 steering 2.jpg

IH 434 steering 1.jpg

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Check that are no remains of the broken grease fitting left in the hole. If there is use an easy out to remove it (they usually come out pretty easy) not sure what thread it will be though. 
remove the steering arm from the kingpin. A two leg puller and heat will help. Put the puller on and get some tension on it then heat the arm (not excessively). If it’s stubborn a few hits with a copper hammer wi often shock it freee. Put a good axle stand under the axle beam. Remove front wheel. Carefully heat kingpin tube and knock the pin down through the tube. Take care not to damage threads. If you can get grease in first the heat will help it penetrate around the kingpin.   You may have to try and turn the pin back and forth with the steering arm on. Slip a length of tube over the arm to give you better leverage.   Be careful when heating. Wear a good quality face shield that is impact resistant. I have seen various parts explode when heated due to tease or oil boiling in a closed space (steering balljoints are one culprit).   Always worth having a fire extinguisher and water at hand as well. Just in case. Be safe. 

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Thanks England806 for the response with clear suggestions.   With respect to the grease fitting hole, I will need to check for any remains.

The tractor is at a remote place that I only go to once every few days.  This will give me time to get the proper tools.  

Thank you for the safety advice.  Is there a good quality face shield you would recommend?

Cheers,

Bill

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I had the same problem with mine a few months ago, we pumped alot of grease into that broken nipple and moved it back and forth by the hydro at first, but after a while of pumping grease into it and turning at the same time it finally freed itself up, now I can hit the limits on both sides.

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Hi, I live in the east end of Ottawa and years ago spent many hours in the seat of a B414D and 434.
I assume it is a Diesel with an IH 1501 loader on it.
You have received good advice from others on here.
PS, if you have any glow plug issues don't spend money on the old version buy an update Bosch kit.
Good Luck with you 434
Jim

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@Captian KirkThanks for the link and your write up on how you fixed your steering issue.  Mine seems to be the exact issue, just on the opposite wheel. First I need to fix the broken grease fitting hole.   By the way, you really cleaned up your tractor nicely.  This inspires me to do the same next year.

@jimb2I live in the opposite side of Ottawa, in Kanata.  My garden, where my IH 434 is, is in Carp, so I don't get to go work there whenever I can.  The 434 is a diesel with an IH 1501 loader.   Not sure how many hours on it as the meter is stuck at 924 hours.  Thanks for the tip for a glow plug replacement. I have not noticed if it's faulty.  By the way, where do you usually get parts for an IH tractor here, online or locally?

Cheers,

Bill

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Hi @toisanwu, my brother now has the family farm that I grew up on west of Perth, Ontario. He only has IH 54/74/84 and CIH 95/3230 series tractors now, the 434 was traded back in the 1980s for a newer model IH 384.
I used to pickup parts for him when the IH/CIH Reis Equipment was on Carp Road but it was closed a few years ago and now the closest is Renfrew and Reis sold all their locations to Delta Power Equipment Link: https://www.deltapower.ca/locations/location/819/renfrew-on. If you use a credit card the Renfrew location wil ship it to you at a charge but for a large part it is very $$$ cheaper to drive to Renfrew.
CaseIH parts have become very $$$ over the last couple years.
My brother shops around between A & I but it is now owned by JD and have become $$$ as well, and https://www.yesterdaystractors.com/Farmall-B434-Tractor-Parts.html
If you can find the part number always google it as sometimes Amazon or Ebay may have the part at a good price

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17 hours ago, toisanwu said:

Thanks England806 for the response with clear suggestions.   With respect to the grease fitting hole, I will need to check for any remains.

The tractor is at a remote place that I only go to once every few days.  This will give me time to get the proper tools.  

Thank you for the safety advice.  Is there a good quality face shield you would recommend?

Cheers,

Bill

I can’t make any specific recommendations on a face shield as long as it’s impact resistant. Just try and find a decent quality one from a reputable supplier. I find a shield more useful than goggles as not only dies it protect your face but visibility is often less restricted.  Good luck with your tractor. 

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If you have the stuff - I've had good luck with making a 1/8" pipe adapter to a porta-power fitting.   A porta power hand pump will force oil into just about any  stubborn joint.

Take an easy out and a 1/8" "blind hole" pipe tap along to work on the fitting hole.   (the "blind hole" tap has less of a taper - its for cutting thread on a hole that isn't "open" on the bottom.   Taps designed for dressing existing treads are usually similar.)    Unless you can get the spindle out, then you are home free!

a 3/4" drive breaker bar, socket, and pipe to fit on the nut on top will also be necessary.  Try turning the kingpin/spindle with that first.

I would use a hammer on the spindle top as the LAST resort.    Remove the wheel and hub.   A pipe over the spindle is another good way to turn the unit back & forth if the arm is removed.  Oil, heat, slowly rocking back & forth should get the unit to eventually work its way out.   Then clean it all up, regrease, and slide back in place by hand!

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The weight of the tractor is on the thrust bearings in the bottom of the tube side of the axle. I expect that the king-pin joint is seized  because the bearing is bad and the seals are gone and rust.  The grease will help but the real issue is that joint needs new bushings and seals AND the grease fittings replaced.

I am basing this opinion on our 464 also a British machine in the 454 family.

Welcome aboard and good luck with your machine.

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Hi @jimb2I always take Carp Rd. when I go to my garden.  One of my neighbours there told me there is/was a mechanic on Carp Rd that worked on older tractors, unfortunately I saw no sign of such a shop there now.  That Delta Power Equipment in Renfrew is less than 40 minutes from my garden so it's no worse than driving out to Orleans!  That is probably a good place to get the genuine hydraulic fluid for the tractor as well?  Or those from Canadian Tire/Princess Auto are good enough?  

There is also one Delta Power Equipment in Winchester.  Rideau Auctions have couple of BCS tiller on auction soon.  If I manage to get one of them, I will go check out the Delta Power Equipment there.

Is the A & I place part of the Greentech Co. that is located where Highway 7 ends at 417?  That would be convenient for me to pick up parts there!  

Really appreciate this info.  It will make it much easier to source parts. 

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18 hours ago, England806 said:

I can’t make any specific recommendations on a face shield as long as it’s impact resistant. Just try and find a decent quality one from a reputable supplier. I find a shield more useful than goggles as not only dies it protect your face but visibility is often less restricted.  Good luck with your tractor. 

There are many different brands and models of face shields on Amazon.  I found it hard to tell the difference.  After searching for awhile, I believe "Lincoln Electric OMNIShield Professional Face Shield" (https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B07PRM54FQ/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A2JFG5V8KDR9UV&psc=1) has the best spec in terms of impact protection, I believe.  It claims to have the thickest polycarbonate lens.  But it's also the priciest one as well!

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12 hours ago, Captian Kirk said:

I lived in Nepean for a few years as a kid, then we moved back to northern New Brunswick 

Nepean has grown alot in size these days, particularly the Barrhaven suburb.  Some people I know now have houses built on once really nice farm land.  Kind of sad to see, but it seems to be the norm now in Ontario.  

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12 hours ago, Jeff-C-IL said:

If you have the stuff - I've had good luck with making a 1/8" pipe adapter to a porta-power fitting.   A porta power hand pump will force oil into just about any  stubborn joint.

Take an easy out and a 1/8" "blind hole" pipe tap along to work on the fitting hole.   (the "blind hole" tap has less of a taper - its for cutting thread on a hole that isn't "open" on the bottom.   Taps designed for dressing existing treads are usually similar.)    Unless you can get the spindle out, then you are home free!

a 3/4" drive breaker bar, socket, and pipe to fit on the nut on top will also be necessary.  Try turning the kingpin/spindle with that first.

I would use a hammer on the spindle top as the LAST resort.    Remove the wheel and hub.   A pipe over the spindle is another good way to turn the unit back & forth if the arm is removed.  Oil, heat, slowly rocking back & forth should get the unit to eventually work its way out.   Then clean it all up, regrease, and slide back in place by hand!

@Jeff-C-ILI believe I could get all those parts you described from our Canadian Harbor Freight - Princess Auto :) I will stop by there on the way to the garden this weekend and give this a try.  Thank you for the tips.

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10 hours ago, oleman said:

The weight of the tractor is on the thrust bearings in the bottom of the tube side of the axle. I expect that the king-pin joint is seized  because the bearing is bad and the seals are gone and rust.  The grease will help but the real issue is that joint needs new bushings and seals AND the grease fittings replaced.

I am basing this opinion on our 464 also a British machine in the 454 family.

Welcome aboard and good luck with your machine.

Hi @oleman,Thank you and thanks for pointing that out.  As I mentioned earlier, I am really new to all of this and really enjoy learning everything about this and other tractors.  I will try to free up the kingpin and if that does not work out well, I will need to bring it to a mechanic to get new bushings and seals done as I have no idea or means to do that.

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1 hour ago, toisanwu said:

Hi @jimb2I always take Carp Rd. when I go to my garden.  One of my neighbours there told me there is/was a mechanic on Carp Rd that worked on older tractors, unfortunately I saw no sign of such a shop there now.  That Delta Power Equipment in Renfrew is less than 40 minutes from my garden so it's no worse than driving out to Orleans!  That is probably a good place to get the genuine hydraulic fluid for the tractor as well?  Or those from Canadian Tire/Princess Auto are good enough?  

There is also one Delta Power Equipment in Winchester.  Rideau Auctions have couple of BCS tiller on auction soon.  If I manage to get one of them, I will go check out the Delta Power Equipment there.

Is the A & I place part of the Greentech Co. that is located where Highway 7 ends at 417?  That would be convenient for me to pick up parts there!  

Really appreciate this info.  It will make it much easier to source parts. 

Yes, I believe Delta Power now owns all the CIH franchises in eastern Ontario.

Yes, the JD dealer Greentech is an A & I dealer as JD now owns A & I.

Re CIH Hytran is made for tractors that require  a combined hydraulic and transmission oil. Your 434 only requires a hydraulic oil.

When the early models of those series of IH made in Bradford, UK tractors were released in the mid 1950s they only required stand 20W non-detergent motor oil as hydraulic oil, later non-detergent motor oil was difficult to get and that is when they started using Hytran in the hydraulics of the later models of the IH Bradford tractors. The exception to this is some of the industrial models like 2444 have been modified to use the transmission and differential case as additional hydraulic reservoir so they require Hytran hydraulic oil. We always used the so called “yellow bucket “ hydraulic oil in those model of tractors. But when Dad bought the IH 454 in 1972 then we started using Hytran in everything as the 454 had a combined trans/diff and hydraulic reservoir and hydraulic clutch and brakes as the problem was that if you were using an implement with a remote cylinder on the 434 it would have yellow bucket oil then you used that implement on the 454 now you have mixed yellow bucket oil with Hytran hydraulic fluid.

 

 

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20 hours ago, jimb2 said:

Yes, I believe Delta Power now owns all the CIH franchises in eastern Ontario.

Yes, the JD dealer Greentech is an A & I dealer as JD now owns A & I.

Re CIH Hytran is made for tractors that require  a combined hydraulic and transmission oil. Your 434 only requires a hydraulic oil.

When the early models of those series of IH made in Bradford, UK tractors were released in the mid 1950s they only required stand 20W non-detergent motor oil as hydraulic oil, later non-detergent motor oil was difficult to get and that is when they started using Hytran in the hydraulics of the later models of the IH Bradford tractors. The exception to this is some of the industrial models like 2444 have been modified to use the transmission and differential case as additional hydraulic reservoir so they require Hytran hydraulic oil. We always used the so called “yellow bucket “ hydraulic oil in those model of tractors. But when Dad bought the IH 454 in 1972 then we started using Hytran in everything as the 454 had a combined trans/diff and hydraulic reservoir and hydraulic clutch and brakes as the problem was that if you were using an implement with a remote cylinder on the 434 it would have yellow bucket oil then you used that implement on the 454 now you have mixed yellow bucket oil with Hytran hydraulic fluid.

 

 

Sorry, @jimb2, what is “yellow bucket “ hydraulic oil?  Is a certain brand of hydraulic you got in a particular store?  I am wondering if Canadian Tire's inhouse brand Certified AW46 Anti-Wear Hydraulic Oil (https://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/certified-aw46-anti-wear-hydraulic-oil-18-9-l-0280213p.html?loc=plp) would be OK for the 434?  I probably don't need to change it for awhile since it still looks really clear, but good to know when the time comes to change the fluid.

 

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1 hour ago, toisanwu said:

Sorry, @jimb2, what is “yellow bucket “ hydraulic oil?  Is a certain brand of hydraulic you got in a particular store?  I am wondering if Canadian Tire's inhouse brand Certified AW46 Anti-Wear Hydraulic Oil (https://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/certified-aw46-anti-wear-hydraulic-oil-18-9-l-0280213p.html?loc=plp) would be OK for the 434?  I probably don't need to change it for awhile since it still looks really clear, but good to know when the time comes to change the fluid.

 

Years ago my Dad bought the hydraulic oil from Shell but then the local dealer stopped carrying it, then he started to buy it from Canadian Tire. At that time Canadian Tire had a cheaper brand and a more expensive one, he always bought the expensive brand.
The link you provided should be good for the 434 But if you are sharing equipment with a newer tractor that has combined hydraulic and transmission fluid then go for the Hytran or the JD equivalent.

Snoshoe, 434 has separate hydraulic system only for 3pt and PS, mechanical brakes and mechanical PTO engagement by collar connecting two shafts. The transmission and differential use 80 or 90 wt gear oil on the 434. Like I said before some of the Industrial models like the 2444 have been modified to use both the hydraulic reservoir under the seat and the transmission and differential case as a hydraulic reservoir so these models require Hytran.

 

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"Yellow bucket" hydraulic oil literally comes in yellow bucket. Sometimes advertised as "303" type oil, at least in the US up until a couple of years ago. It is cheap cheap cheap, barely oil. 

What you should be looking for at minimum is a "Universal Tractor Transmission and Hydraulic Fluid." The writing on the bucket will list what types of hydraulic fluid it is compatible with, or meets the specifications for. It will list many brands of tractors, hopefully including International Harvester, IH, or CaseIH. It may also list the MS1209 standard. This is what you need.

It looks like Canadian Tire has a product "Certified TDH" which lists "Case-NewHolland."

Just searched Canadian Tire's website for "face shield." Most of the results are for hockey masks, LOL. Way to lean into a stereotype, Canada! There is a 3M face shield that's perfectly serviceable for only $29.99.

I don't like to spend too much on face shields because they quickly become scratched and fogged to the point where you can't see through them. If you've spent $120 on a face shield and can't see through it in 3 months... 

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3 hours ago, Matt Kirsch said:

I don't like to spend too much on face shields because they quickly become scratched and fogged to the point where you can't see through them. If you've spent $120 on a face shield and can't see through it in 3 months...

I just use my old school welding shield with the dark lense up. A box of 100 replacements are cheap.

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