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560 Hydraulic problem


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Those tractors have a complicated system of linkages that provide feedback from the fast hitch to the control so you could move the lever in relation to the position you wanted the hitch to be. Any of the pivot points rusts up, the linkage breaks, and boom, no more fast hitch control...

Quick fix is to detach the hoses from the fast hitch cylinder, and run hoses to one of the other two remotes. Then you can raise and lower the hitch like a normal hydraulic implement. That's how the 400 and 450 tractors worked.

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2 hours ago, Matt Kirsch said:

Those tractors have a complicated system of linkages that provide feedback from the fast hitch to the control so you could move the lever in relation to the position you wanted the hitch to be. Any of the pivot points rusts up, the linkage breaks, and boom, no more fast hitch control...

Quick fix is to detach the hoses from the fast hitch cylinder, and run hoses to one of the other two remotes. Then you can raise and lower the hitch like a normal hydraulic implement. That's how the 400 and 450 tractors worked.

How do you suggest he center and lock hitch valve so its not on pressure.

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I can only suggest that he disable the control from the rock shaft. Center the valve with the lever either forward or back(up or down) all the way and with some sort of tool align the part by the clutch turning it until it goes off pressure. Note I have not had to do this. Or remove and replace the valve which is a lot of work. 

Another thing the OP has not said if there is a change in pressure noise. Maybe the cylinder is bent or froze in position. Or is the lever stripped and not positioning the gears in the valve. I am now not sure if there is enough information here.

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  • FarmallFan changed the title to 560 Hydraulic problem

I hesitate a little every time I respond to one of these tele-depth problems. Not one that I have responded to have we ever learned what the actual problem is. The follow up linkage is external and can corrode and freeze. That means it is also easy to see problem and repair. Exception is the three bevel gears inside the valve that act as a differential between control lever and follow up linkage and the spline VacDaddyt mentioned.

Personally I have never had anything new enough to have position control. I have to rely on gauge wheels and depth stops for depth control. If I had something with position control. I would certainly do anything feasible to make it work. Ultimately the choice is the op's.

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I replaced the fast-hitch valve with a normal hydraulic valve.

Basically, did the same thing as Snoshoe suggested.

It worked good as long as the 'lock valve', was in the circuit.

Mike

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1 hour ago, mikem said:

I replaced the fast-hitch valve with a normal hydraulic valve.

Basically, did the same thing as Snoshoe suggested.

It worked good as long as the 'lock valve', was in the circuit.

Mike

You either mixed me up with Matt or misunderstood what I was saying.

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The only times we used the position control was for cultivating with a mounted cultivator and when plowing with the 560 on a semi mount 710 4-16 plow. The mower and blade we set the hitch to float and had stops in place.

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12 minutes ago, VacDaddyt said:

The only times we used the position control was for cultivating with a mounted cultivator and when plowing with the 560 on a semi mount 710 4-16 plow. The mower and blade we set the hitch to float and had stops in place.

Well now try doing those jobs without depth control. Might give you a new perspective.  For me it's plowing and bush hogging. Had to fabricate a guage wheel for the plow. It works good but changing depth for different conditions is a pain. Bush hogging every time you drop the mower. You had to keep bumping the lever up or down till you find the right height. Finally made a set of stops for the hitch. Again a pain to change height. Every body's needs are different I guess.

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Having had a 400 for 30 plus years with an add on 3 point hitch which creeps down all the time I like the depth control on my 560.

I get that it's kind of an odd system and parts are not available off the shelf but it's surely not rocket science and the modern tractors of today have to have equally as challenging if not more so issues.

Keep hoping to see someone with enough gumption to actually come up with a workable solution for the bevel gears ect. If not new alternative parts then something else that might work.

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Possibly your tel a depth gear set teeth stripped or the pin that goes thru the TAD pinion gear broke or came out. You can look for that by removing the two bolt cover that faces the seat. The gears have been NLA for years. If the pin broke the gears have to be re-timed in relationship to the lever on the left side of the valve. 

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