Caseihtecher Posted December 8, 2022 Author Share Posted December 8, 2022 Well got in lower arm all welded up. Started on the second one. At least got the one cut out for the socket and got the socket tacked in place. Once I get them both welded up I'll get the holes drilled and the arms will be done. Them I'll be moving on to building the frame work for it. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Caseihtecher Posted December 8, 2022 Author Share Posted December 8, 2022 So this is going to be probably a stupid question.. I was out in the shed getting some tools to work on some stuff in the house and I figured while I was out there I would start the H up and let it run for a while. While it was running I climbed up in the seat and was messing around and I noticed the front wheels will do 360 degree rotation.. like I could turn them backwards from what they originally were and then have them facing forward again going in the same direction.. which now I'm not 100% sure which way is forward.. but is that normal? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
snoshoe Posted December 8, 2022 Share Posted December 8, 2022 One of the four bolts that bolt lower bolster to upper is supposed to have a knob on top to act as a stop. That bolt has probably been replaced with a standard bolt. The flange with the two bolt holes at top of lower bolster should face forward. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Caseihtecher Posted December 8, 2022 Author Share Posted December 8, 2022 1 hour ago, snoshoe said: One of the four bolts that bolt lower bolster to upper is supposed to have a knob on top to act as a stop. That bolt has probably been replaced with a standard bolt. The flange with the two bolt holes at top of lower bolster should face forward. Ok so then the next question is it going to hurt anything to not have it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
snoshoe Posted December 8, 2022 Share Posted December 8, 2022 19 minutes ago, Caseihtecher said: Ok so then the next question is it going to hurt anything to not have it? Not if you don't turn the wheel to far when moving. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Caseihtecher Posted December 8, 2022 Author Share Posted December 8, 2022 4 hours ago, snoshoe said: Not if you don't turn the wheel to far when moving. So it won't hurt it if I'm just sitting still spinning the wheels around and around? 😂 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
snoshoe Posted December 9, 2022 Share Posted December 9, 2022 54 minutes ago, Caseihtecher said: So it won't hurt it if I'm just sitting still spinning the wheels around and around? 😂 Not as long as it's all lubed up. The danger is that if moving and crank into a hard turn and go a little to far. The tractor will suddenly turn the opposite direction. Definitely not the rig for mowing hay or anything else that requires fast right angle turns. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Caseihtecher Posted December 9, 2022 Author Share Posted December 9, 2022 17 minutes ago, snoshoe said: Not as long as it's all lubed up. The danger is that if moving and crank into a hard turn and go a little to far. The tractor will suddenly turn the opposite direction. Definitely not the rig for mowing hay or anything else that requires fast right angle turns. Ya I see what you mean. I may have to look into that stop bolt. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Caseihtecher Posted December 15, 2022 Author Share Posted December 15, 2022 Well little more of an update. Got both the lower arms welded up and holes drilled. Moving on to the frame/rockshaft/upper arm assembly. I'm sure this will take longer. But we will see. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JDpartsman Posted December 16, 2022 Share Posted December 16, 2022 My 450 originally had a Schwartz wide front on it when I got it. I since swapped it out to a narrow front because that wide front was SHOT. Anyhow it did not have the mentioned stop bolt and I had no intentions of buying one; so what I did was welded a knob on top of a bolt and test fit to make sure it would stop the front end from turning 360. It has been working good so far. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Caseihtecher Posted December 16, 2022 Author Share Posted December 16, 2022 9 hours ago, JDpartsman said: My 450 originally had a Schwartz wide front on it when I got it. I since swapped it out to a narrow front because that wide front was SHOT. Anyhow it did not have the mentioned stop bolt and I had no intentions of buying one; so what I did was welded a knob on top of a bolt and test fit to make sure it would stop the front end from turning 360. It has been working good so far. Well I was thinking I could do something similar. But I couldn't see where the bolt would actually work.. looks like the groove on the bottom of the bolster is the same all the way around. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Caseihtecher Posted December 30, 2022 Author Share Posted December 30, 2022 Well making a little more progress on the hitch. Made a "copy" of the drawbar brackets that attach to the axle clamps. Of course these angle irons are flipped compared to the actually drawbar brackets. Plus they have an additional hole for a pin for the hitch arms. Wanted to pull the drawbar brackets off and mount these up with the horseshoe. Make sure everything fits alright. Kinda did a mock up with the lower hitch arms. Ended up getting a top link and adjustable side links for Christmas. (Of course some other tractor part goodies 😎). Need to do some measuring now and cut up some more metal. Then I guess work on putting the rest of the frame together. Also got myself a Christmas present. Ordered a two spool hydraulic valve to put on the tractor so I can have one spool for the hitch and the other for a set of hydraulic couplers. Has a relief valve built in for 500-1500 psi. Supposed to be set at 1000psi. I think what I'm going to do.. and some people may not like it.. I think I'm going to remove the pulley gear box and make a plate to cover that hole along with mounting the valve under there. I got a plan for the levers but it's hard to explain.. I just don't like seeing them mounted to a post off the axle.. I may stop with the hitch for now and work on that. We will see. Also with spare time I had this weekend I sprayed the hitch arms with primer and paint 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iowaboy1965 Posted January 3 Share Posted January 3 Looks good so far. One thing to think about. And maybe it won't matter to you. But on mine the horseshoe will limit down travel of the arms. Sometimes that's a problem and I have to take horseshoe off. This has been discussed before and some aftermarket hitches had something different you could buy to replace the horseshoe so the arms don't hit and you can meave drawbar on all the time if you want. I would like to make something like that for mine someday but it hasn't been a priority yet. But it would make things a lot more convenient. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
snoshoe Posted January 3 Share Posted January 3 4 hours ago, iowaboy1965 said: Looks good so far. One thing to think about. And maybe it won't matter to you. But on mine the horseshoe will limit down travel of the arms. Sometimes that's a problem and I have to take horseshoe off. This has been discussed before and some aftermarket hitches had something different you could buy to replace the horseshoe so the arms don't hit and you can meave drawbar on all the time if you want. I would like to make something like that for mine someday but it hasn't been a priority yet. But it would make things a lot more convenient. Move the braces on the horseshoe back a hole or two. That lowers the horse shoe. Then run drawbar over the top with hammerstrap or roller underneath. That allows arms to drop further and maintain drawbar height. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Caseihtecher Posted January 4 Author Share Posted January 4 8 hours ago, iowaboy1965 said: Looks good so far. One thing to think about. And maybe it won't matter to you. But on mine the horseshoe will limit down travel of the arms. Sometimes that's a problem and I have to take horseshoe off. This has been discussed before and some aftermarket hitches had something different you could buy to replace the horseshoe so the arms don't hit and you can meave drawbar on all the time if you want. I would like to make something like that for mine someday but it hasn't been a priority yet. But it would make things a lot more convenient. That's been one of my thoughts as well. I figured I'd go with the horseshoe and see if it gives me a problem or not. The other thought I had was doing something like this. but we will see. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Caseihtecher Posted January 14 Author Share Posted January 14 Alright so little update. Like I mentioned above I started on hydraulic valve mounting and working on linkages. Due to me mounting under the fuel tank where the pulley gear box was located. I'm pretty impressed with my work so far since I'm just pulling all of this out of my rear 😂. Basically pulled the pulley gear box and cut a plate out of 1/4" steel in a "t" shape to cover the opening along with a spot to mount the valve. Also attached gussets on the bottom side to help support the valve. Ended up taking 1/2" steel rod and running it through a steel pipe thats 1/2" inside diameter. Also took a couple pieces of 3/4" inside diameter pipe to hold both pieces in place and to pivot inside. One piece is welded to the cover plate. The other is welded to another 1/4" plate that will bolt down into place with the cover plate. That way I can take the linkage apart Incase repairs/mods are needed down the road. Welded a 1/4" plate with a notch to the 1/2" rod and pipe to connect to the spool, and I will hopefully have a lever that will be attached by set screw or roll pin to both the rod and pipe on the opposite ends. Then to give if a more factory look I will just have a 1/4" rod going from each lever to the bracket that the original belly pump rod would have been located. Sounds complicated but it's really not. I'll have pictures to show as well 😉. Nothing is painted yet. But it will before I mount things to the tractor. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Caseihtecher Posted January 15 Author Share Posted January 15 Here's pictures of things mounted on the tractor. Think things are good enough to paint. Only thing I need to try to do is add another loop some how to the original bracket for the hydraulic lever rod so both can be right there. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TN Hillbilly Posted January 15 Share Posted January 15 Nice fab work! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Caseihtecher Posted January 15 Author Share Posted January 15 5 minutes ago, TN Hillbilly said: Nice fab work! Thank you! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
560Dennis Posted January 15 Share Posted January 15 On 12/30/2022 at 5:39 PM, Caseihtecher said: Well making a little more progress on the hitch. Made a "copy" of the drawbar brackets that attach to the axle clamps. Of course these angle irons are flipped compared to the actually drawbar brackets. Plus they have an additional hole for a pin for the hitch arms. Wanted to pull the drawbar brackets off and mount these up with the horseshoe. Make sure everything fits alright. Kinda did a mock up with the lower hitch arms. Ended up getting a top link and adjustable side links for Christmas. (Of course some other tractor part goodies 😎). Need to do some measuring now and cut up some more metal. Then I guess work on putting the rest of the frame together. Also got myself a Christmas present. Ordered a two spool hydraulic valve to put on the tractor so I can have one spool for the hitch and the other for a set of hydraulic couplers. Has a relief valve built in for 500-1500 psi. Supposed to be set at 1000psi. I think what I'm going to do.. and some people may not like it.. I think I'm going to remove the pulley gear box and make a plate to cover that hole along with mounting the valve under there. I got a plan for the levers but it's hard to explain.. I just don't like seeing them mounted to a post off the axle.. I may stop with the hitch for now and work on that. We will see. Also with spare time I had this weekend I sprayed the hitch arms with primer and paint nice I must b missing your thought s on 3 point design am I ? Suggest you put the up down diagonals on outside the swing draw bar that way you can lower to grind and lift burying implements tongues out of the ground. Switch the right side vertically angle to the left side ,left side to the right ,for diagonal surface bearing location , weld a top plate on the angle for a steep plate for mounting up that row crop ,you’ll like it when u get old like me. i know I’m missing something 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
560Dennis Posted January 15 Share Posted January 15 Dang reread the post the third time sorry that’s what you doing ugh ! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Caseihtecher Posted January 15 Author Share Posted January 15 56 minutes ago, 560Dennis said: Dang reread the post the third time sorry that’s what you doing ugh ! It's all good thanks for the advice though! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Caseihtecher Posted January 18 Author Share Posted January 18 Alright so I painted up the piece's that I made for the hydraulic valve and got that all mounted. Besides the rods and the holders. Also got the hose from the pump hooked up valve. Now when I designed this I didn't really put in to consideration where the valve inlet and outlet were located. The hose coming from the pump luckily in my opinion laid out well.. but the outlet hose to sump isn't (at least in my opinion). The bottom picture I have marked in green where the outlet of the hydraulic valve is. And in blue is where the pump used to dump. The only thing I can come up with is using an elbow off the valve facing rearward and running the hose back and around the valve, back to the old return. Honestly not really liking that idea. Now as far as I know the belly pump has been gutted so I should be able to use any of the fittings on the side correct? If that's the case I would just move the vent back to the top port as it should instead of off the elbow on the side. Just looking for some opinions here. Thanks 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Caseihtecher Posted January 25 Author Share Posted January 25 Well with all the input I got 😑 i decided I would just install a tee fitting where the drain plug was and installed my return hose to the bottom of the belly pump. Also got the rest of the linkages installed for the valve. Had to order some fittings for the work ports on the valve. Hopefully get those in a couple days and I'll get a couple hoses made for the hydraulic couplers I'll have on the back. I'll probably temporarily cap the other spool till I get the hitch built. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Caseihtecher Posted February 27 Author Share Posted February 27 Alright so I bought a Schwartz front end for my H and I mainly have one quick question. What's the difference between the steering arm(where the tie rod ends hook to the steering sector) on a H vs a M? This axle unfortunately didn't come with one so I've been looking and one for a M is 100$ vs for a H is $200. Wanting to know if one for a M could be made to fit an H? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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