Jump to content

1943 Farmall H - First Tractor Project


Recommended Posts

So just recently I purchased a non running Farmall H from the dealer I work at. In case any one is curious I purchased it for $200. It's not pretty at all and needs some work. I've already tuned it up and cleaned out the carb and fuel tank since it's been sitting for 10 years. Engine does turn over (by hand) so hopefully that's all sound. Tractor had a crane set up on the back side for setting up equipment.  I've removed all that and traded the whole set up for an original drawbar for the tractor . It also has a aftermarket M&W live hydraulic pump mounted on the engine with a Delco distributor. It had a 2 spool valve that unfortunately went with the crane. So right now the live pump is just plumbed up circulating oil back into the belly pump reservoir (dumping into the top where the full/dipstick should be). Which brings me to one of the reasons why I posted a topic to this site. I'm wanting to get another 2 spool valve to put on this tractor. I want to use one spool for a set of couplers, and the other spool for a set of cylinders on a three point hitch that I plan to build.. or maybe purchase used.. we will see. I didn't pay real close attention to what was on it before, but what it looked like to me was the valve that was on it had two returns. One going into the top of the reservoir where I have the pump dumping into now, and another going to the belly pumps outlet. (Which the handle for the belly pump is not there.. I'm assuming it's in the return position) So I'm assuming since it was an open center valve that one return hose was the constant flow through the center of the valve and maybe the other was a relief return? Basically I'm trying to figure out if I get another 2 spool valve (with an internal relief) is that how I should have it plumbed up? Would any one know roughly what the specs of that live pump is as well? Basically what pressure relief I need to have? 

Another question.. does anyone know anything about putting a priority valve on for using power steering with the live hydraulic pump? The tractor also has a steering pump with its own reservoir. But both prevent the hood from being locked down all the way.. so I would like to try to get it set up with the live pump and do away with the power steering pump completely. I've found a priority valve that they show using on an M but just like to see if its an idea that works. 

I will also post pictures of progress of stuff I've done to the tractor as well. Like I said it's my first project so this should be fun. 😁IMG_20221021_164202438.thumb.jpg.3b23521b678f47510b1b2f477fd85708.jpg

  • Like 5
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Congratulations on your first project, I still remember the excitement that came with buying my first tractor project (Ford 9N) and I will say that feeling never goes away with subsequent projects as well. The H is one of my favorite models, large enough to be useful, yet small enough to haul easily. I just bought an H last weekend to tinker with in my spare time. Looking forward to following along as you fix this one up. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

10 minutes ago, ClassicTractorProfessor said:

Congratulations on your first project, I still remember the excitement that came with buying my first tractor project (Ford 9N) and I will say that feeling never goes away with subsequent projects as well. The H is one of my favorite models, large enough to be useful, yet small enough to haul easily. I just bought an H last weekend to tinker with in my spare time. Looking forward to following along as you fix this one up. 

Thank you! I do as well. Maybe a slow project but ya never know.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Nothing wrong with a slow project. While I sometimes envy the guys who can afford the time and money to do a complete nut and bolt restoration in a matter of a few months, I have found I get more satisfaction from buying a part here and there and just tinkering on them when I have spare time, its almost like therapy for me doing it that way and not feeling rushed to get anything done. I work full time as a mechanic so I know all about getting things done quickly and feeling like people are rushing you, but when it comes time to my projects I prefer to just work slow and steady at my own speed. May not get much done that way, but it relaxes me, and keeps me from getting burnt out on a project

Link to comment
Share on other sites

7 hours ago, ClassicTractorProfessor said:

Nothing wrong with a slow project. While I sometimes envy the guys who can afford the time and money to do a complete nut and bolt restoration in a matter of a few months, I have found I get more satisfaction from buying a part here and there and just tinkering on them when I have spare time, its almost like therapy for me doing it that way and not feeling rushed to get anything done. I work full time as a mechanic so I know all about getting things done quickly and feeling like people are rushing you, but when it comes time to my projects I prefer to just work slow and steady at my own speed. May not get much done that way, but it relaxes me, and keeps me from getting burnt out on a project

Oh I know what you mean. I work at a caseih dealership so I'm already working on tractors all the time. But there I always feel like I'm rushing to get customers equipment done fast (but efficiently of course). Here I'll be able to take my time. Hopefully make things right and the way I would prefer it. I know most guys probably prefer to have things restored to original but I don't know if this thing will be completely original. We will see of course. I'd like it to look good but also want it to be usable so.. I don't know we will see what the future holds I guess. 👍

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

IMG_20221031_124204656_HDR.thumb.jpg.7ee90ee9b0ddc800c77c5b9b013975f4.jpgIMG_20221031_124216830_HDR.thumb.jpg.cbb8e1d575d7e00e54446f37bc19c326.jpg

Well here's a couple more pictures. I installed a new battery box today during lunch break that I welded to the factory brackets.. yes it's not a factory box but.. it was only like 40 bucks so.. I'm happy with it. Then the other side with some of the new tune up stuff I installed. And that ugly power steering pump that hangs out a mile wide 🤦. Still trying to figure out what I want to do with that. The frame rail on both sides were for hanging counter weights on the front for the crane that was on the back. 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Move the alternator. Put the pump back on the governor. I have fitted that alternator up under the hood. Used the adjustable generator pulley to tighten belt. They make smaller alternators now. I have a JD B that I converted the generator to electronic regulation. It has worked great for my puttering for 1 season now.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

10 minutes ago, snoshoe said:

Move the alternator. Put the pump back on the governor. I have fitted that alternator up under the hood. Used the adjustable generator pulley to tighten belt. They make smaller alternators now. I have a JD B that I converted the generator to electronic regulation. It has worked great for my puttering for 1 season now.

The pump should be on the governor? And I'd like to put the alternator where the generator should be. Ive seen the smaller alternators as well. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

19 hours ago, snoshoe said:

You will find that bracket bolts right to the cover. The pump then sets inside.

Well I looked into that today and I'm wondering now if the reason why they did it this way was because I don't have the drive pulley on the front of the crankshaft. Steiner has them for 100$. Right now it's using the fan belt to run the power steering.IMG_20221101_151644397.thumb.jpg.d3264e55bb02aafc250525d9719320a6.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 11/1/2022 at 3:24 PM, Caseihtecher said:

Well I looked into that today and I'm wondering now if the reason why they did it this way was because I don't have the drive pulley on the front of the crankshaft. Steiner has them for 100$. Right now it's using the fan belt to run the power steering.IMG_20221101_151644397.thumb.jpg.d3264e55bb02aafc250525d9719320a6.jpg

So I looked at it again and the pulley I found is for a Farmall M. Not having any luck finding any thing for a H. Would a pulley for a M fit a H?

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

8 minutes ago, hillman said:

so why did you abandon the flow divider idea? it would simplify and make it cleaner looking

Well I haven't necessarily abandoned the idea. I just haven't really got any feed back on that or have seen very much about that. I've seen priority valves where you can tie into the live hydraulics with the steering. but I also don't know how that would effect the hydraulics heat wise considering the belly pump isn't much of a reservoir, and I already want to install a 3pt hitch and have a set of hydraulic couplers. I'm going back and forth just for the fact the steering could be it's own system and one less thing to tie into the live hydraulics. If I could get the steering pump mounted how it's supposed to be it would also be cleaner looking. But honestly I really don't know what I want to do. If it's just a matter of getting a pulley to get the steering pump mounted correctly then I'd be saving $150. I just don't know if a pulley for a M would fit my H. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Well finally got the tractor running and moving. Had to pull the starter off, disassemble, polish the brushes and the armature, and lube the starter drive. Found the ring on the flywheel also has a spot where the teeth are about gone. Also had to clean out inlet port of the sediment bowl due to that nasty white corrosion from the aluminum, was blocking the gas getting into the actual bowl. Once I finally got gas to the carb and it cranking it hit right off no problem. Had to replace a return hose on the power steering as well. Got the majority of the moss washed off. Now I need to get the hot power washer going and try to get the oily/dirt crud off. Not much paint left on it. If I could attach a video I would of it running.IMG_20221104_075040828.thumb.jpg.afc731bc2d46c80cfb8b6f23a525a9aa.jpgIMG_20221104_125452022_HDR.thumb.jpg.22ac9fb371058a36cf1ee511e858df33.jpg

Next to come is pulling the top cover and the RH axle to replace the gasket blown out and get the transaxle cleaned out and new oil in it. Along with trying to get the RH brake pivot shaft freed up where it goes into the housing. IMG_20221104_075055575.thumb.jpg.c2e2b88b4fbcd56dc9a4bdcdd727fb8b.jpg

  • Like 3
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Mine had been sitting exposed for about 55 years with no cover I had to use a chisel against the housing while wedging it to pry them out, with vice grips on the shaft trying to turn it. I Had to get new bands and pivot shafts. Yours looks I’m way better shape than my H though. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

9 hours ago, Jake19917561 said:

Mine had been sitting exposed for about 55 years with no cover I had to use a chisel against the housing while wedging it to pry them out, with vice grips on the shaft trying to turn it. I Had to get new bands and pivot shafts. Yours looks I’m way better shape than my H though. 

Well I know I used a 15" pipe wrench on it where I could pull it back just far enough that the brake was released so I could move it from where it sat. Been spraying the crap out of it with penetrating oil while not trying to get it ok the friction part of the band. May see if I can get some heat to the housing and rock it back and forth and get it out with out damaging it much more. The key is also ground flush on that shaft cause I couldn't get it to come out. Just kept flaking chunks off. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Well today I got time to work on the tractor a decent amount. Was able to get the top cover pulled and got the Rh axle inner gasket replaced. Took a lot of time to get the top off because one bolt broke off when I was trying to take it loose plus there was a second bolt already broke off. Both were flush with the top of the deck so had to get it loose and slide it up the rusty bolts. But anyway one bolt came right out welding a nut to it and the other put up a good fight. Ended up having to Heli-Coil one bolt hole because there was no bolt in it and it was packed full of dirt. Got it cleaned out and ran a tap through it and there was no threads left. 🤷 But as it sets now I got the axle back on but cover still off. Im going to try to clean out the rear end and transmission because it's nasty 🤢IMG_20221105_150951631.thumb.jpg.236f2e283c71ac942c1f50d334299d8d.jpgIMG_20221105_150957456.thumb.jpg.741ce8f70996f71f06033c149ec1996f.jpg

  • Like 4
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Alright so I got a little more work done. Still just been tinkering with it when I can. Power washed out the transmission and axle and honestly I'm real surprised on how everything looks on the inside. Finally got the right hand brake shaft loose and out. Polished it up and going to put it back with anti seize. Also replace the seal on the counter shaft for the transmission. When I replaced it I did see that my belly pump must be pump less. I never knew for sure where the drive shaft was to run that pump. Of course now I know it runs off that slotted nut on the end of the counter shaft. Well considering I don't have a drive shaft there and that the belly pump has a freeze plug where the shaft should come out of the belly pump I would say I just have a reservoir.IMG_20221107_150551556.thumb.jpg.22995555c25ae376a5282dfcdf25f295.jpgIMG_20221107_150451435.thumb.jpg.e1b2ed72165bbc500de3e3bef2b6204f.jpgIMG_20221107_150513450.thumb.jpg.d6c7d42edb7bc993c473db97c4dc9995.jpgIMG_20221108_125903204.thumb.jpg.774ada8a6d04d8ab4b0ee31cfaa8e840.jpgIMG_20221107_150527220.thumb.jpg.cc63dd203f3d78cbd0d5fd2f3435ed95.jpg

  • Like 4
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Well I finally got the tractor home. After doing some more washing and trying to get old greasy crud off the engine. Ended up having to replace the pto seal because it started leaking after I got the rear end all back together and put new gear oil in it. Got the "new" draw bar installed as well. Now the plans are to get the alternator and the steering pump swapped side to side. And start building a 3 pt hitchs. IMG_20221112_145322273.thumb.jpg.acbdfc00edf707c61957b9af05aadc15.jpgIMG_20221112_145330061.thumb.jpg.9d14b690d1e4e630864bc999e7c4a8ef.jpgIMG_20221112_145344836.thumb.jpg.de920b17e405b770adbef88fe43a7759.jpg

  • Like 5
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

Started working on building the hitch more specificly building the hitch arms. Started another topic in the IH Tech Topics to try to see if some one with a Saginaw hitch could get me some measurements but not having any luck. Got one end of an arm done so far but I'm trying to decide what length of an arm that I need or would work best. I think I measured 34" would be close to what it ought to be. But again it would be nice to get some feedback from some one that has a 3pt conversion. Decided I'm just going to do a cat 1 hitch. Don't think I want to use anything heavier then that. Ended up buying 4 swivel ball sockets from agri supply for cat 1 hitch arms. Had some 1"x3.5" steel bars that came off this tractor for weight brackets so I'm using those for my arms. As far as I gotten so far. Oh also ordered the Farmall emblem for the front of the grill as wellIMG_20221129_124242231.thumb.jpg.fa7f24f0635dd6d92584e7f78b485044.jpgIMG_20221129_124216935.thumb.jpg.49037ea267306c529880e44a84a5c3cc.jpgIMG_20221129_124221083.thumb.jpg.8ea91c8bfeea0e6507016259787d32b1.jpg

  • Like 4
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Very small update. Didn't even notice I had something missing on the grill. So I went a head and ordered and installed the emblem. Holes for the screws had gotten to big so I went a head and used machine screws. Also went a head and pulled the 1" piece of steel that ran along the frame on the LH side for the weight bracket. Welded up the holes on it to use as one of my hitch arms. Had one bolt break that I haven't even attempted to get out yet. I will.. someday..IMG_20221204_153551488.thumb.jpg.0ac505b0795dd4a4887cf4eadd967fce.jpg 😁👍

  • Like 3
Link to comment
Share on other sites

On a H the Eaton pump mounted top manifold side of head and a longer generator belt drove both. Only thing is the pump reservoir mounted direct to pump and a round hole was cut in the hood. Some have rigged up a reservoir to go where a starting tank would go on kerosene or distillate. Sometimes a starting tank was modified to work. 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

3 hours ago, DWV said:

On a H the Eaton pump mounted top manifold side of head and a longer generator belt drove both. Only thing is the pump reservoir mounted direct to pump and a round hole was cut in the hood. Some have rigged up a reservoir to go where a starting tank would go on kerosene or distillate. Sometimes a starting tank was modified to work. 

Ya I was thinking I've seen that. I would absolutely hate to cut a hole in the hood and I'm definitely not a fan of the pump mounted off to the side like it is. I've started leaning more towards the idea of getting a priority valve and running it off live hydraulics instead.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Unfortunately, your content contains terms that we do not allow. Please edit your content to remove the highlighted words below.
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

 Share

×
×
  • Create New...