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Worm Drive Skilsaw


vtfireman85
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My friend, a carpenter is on his 3rd,maybe fourth Mag 77 worm drive, specifically SHD77M  but so far no failures just general wear, bent shoes etc . Send one out for repair, buy a new one in the meantime.  
I was so impressed with his that I bought my own probably 12 years ago. Mine has always lived in the truck, so while getting somewhat sporadic use its seen some rough service. 
i was on a job today where we were working with the stone countertop company installing some appliances in soapstone countertop, it arrived close to size and they cut it with Skilsaw magnesium worm drive, theirs had a really nice cast magnesium shoe, slid along stuff like it was made of Teflon, my shoe was supposed to have been improved but its a pain to guide with a speed square. 
the new saw looks to be ever so slightly different, i reached for mine to compare,  but it was left behind from a weekend project and all we had in the truck was the cordless Milwaukee. 
anyone with experience with these saws? What changes were made? I want to upgrade to the mag shoe but not sure if it’ll fit. I asked Skilsaw customer service, but they don’t seem to have a clue. 
i know it is a stretch asking here, but i am always amazed. 
first 2 i poached from eBay, but they are identical to mine. Second 2 are the new ones. 

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Sorry I don't have an answer to your question but have one of my own.

You say they cut a stone countertop with a worm drive saw? Never heard of that.

I have an old skill worm drive I picked up well used many years ago. It's a great saw.

Thx-Ace 

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I have had my 77 worm drive since about 1985 or so, works great. I tend not to use it as much these days as it is quite heavy preferring my equally old  Porter Cable sidewinder. I have used the Mag 77 and It weighs like half as much as mine! I would probably buy one if I were still doing carpentry work on a regular basis. Using to cut decking boards a few summers ago weight was the main thing, the Mag did not make my wrist hurt and was much easier to grab off the ground and cut then put down, pick up cut.... and so forth. The shoe is about the same shape and at least from using it for two days it worked the same as the old saw but easier due to the big weight reduction.

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This guy is a bit of a dork but he did a side by side, I think the shoes are not interchangeable, which is disappointing, but it seems like it is still a decent tool.

 

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He makes a comment about pulling out a worm drive on a job site, I have to say that it does grab attention, almost 0 percent of the time does someone not comment about it. 

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I bought this 8 1/4” one at an auction for 30 bucks, it came with the duct tape, not sure if thats a bonus or not. Keep meaning to order a new pistol grip but haven’t got that far yet. 

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If you are right-handed, a worm drive puts the blade on the "correct" side for visibility.  That is what I like most....I generally watch the blade, not the shoe, when free-handing.  Have only used Milwaukees, so can't add useful comment on the Skil

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I had one for 20 years, only ever used it to cut concrete pavers and the patio blocks. It was just like the gray  ones in the pictures.  I don’t remember what type of oil it used, But I know if you put the wrong stuff in it it won’t work anymore. Lent it to a coworker and he killed it

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I have a worm drive saw but it is a Milwaukee 6373 15A 7 1/4 4400 RPM. 

Big heavy powerful saw, it is a model used in a USN shipyard to cut 2  1/2" aluminum plate for welding for sort of armor plating on a destroyer. I saw the ship fitters swing the model with one hand hanging onto a scaffold. That plating would stop a 7mm, 308 or 30-06 but my .338 mag with 200 grain hand loads constantly penetrated at 100 YDS.  I had access to the shipyards scrap bin and borrowed some 24 x 24 sections that we took out to the range for testing.

Actually too heavy for most of my cutting, But has been a winner since 1984 when I purchased it.  38 years of use, only failure was the power cable had to be replaced.

I believe I have used 90 WT to top-off the gear box.

The skill 77 is smaller and lighter, easier to use if not cutting heavy stock.

 

 

 

 

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2 hours ago, stronger800 said:

I had one for 20 years, only ever used it to cut concrete pavers and the patio blocks. It was just like the gray  ones in the pictures.  I don’t remember what type of oil it used, But I know if you put the wrong stuff in it it won’t work anymore. Lent it to a coworker and he killed it

7195faFk7PL._AC_SL1500_.jpg😎

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I am of the opinion that the wrong lube is better than no lube.

 I have two of the 77 skil saws, one has always had a diamond blade on it for tile, paver bricks,and such. Has the 90w in the gear box.

 The other has a combo rip blade.

 rip saw has a small leak in the gear box,  I filled up with nlgi 1 grease maybe ten years ago, no problems.

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20221001_140513.thumb.jpg.dad4d152bcc015e8ccfd0fd926735973.jpg20221001_140443.thumb.jpg.19fe3f8daad6d3a2d537ab1429fd1eb0.jpgcan i play?20221001_140429.thumb.jpg.6697c34fea7a646c10a3c9e1d57c51ea.jpg

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I either need to go to bed or get my eyes checked. Maybe both, I read that title as woman drive skill saw😂😂 wasn’t sure what to expect when I clicked lol.  It’s been some pretty long days least that’s my excuse lol. 

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1 hour ago, vtfireman85 said:

Cold saw or abrasive? 

Beam saw. Wood. The black thing under it is just a plastic cradle.

I have seen a couple videos of a guy cutting concrete with this saw but it seems so abusive.

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4 hours ago, Twolines said:

Beam saw. Wood. The black thing under it is just a plastic cradle.

I have seen a couple videos of a guy cutting concrete with this saw but it seems so abusive.

I saw those, they look head and shoulders better than the makita I have used. That thing is a pos. Surprised you didn’t opt for the chainsaw version! I was at a wedding in a beautiful timber frame barn last night. We thought what a great excuse to own one of those! Then I was told it was Amish built 😕 I don’t imagine they had one. 

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