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Case 1270 lights


Solocam8925
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3 hours ago, stronger800 said:

It’s all I have ever used. And everything we have, charges correctly.  
my friends and neighbors borrow it all the time. 
I never understood generators and voltage regulators though. 

Voltage regulators are fun to build. Easy to test also.

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We had two of them, 25 years ago.  Local dealership could not help me determine what I needed…so I basically took a guess…and cooked a new $80 regulator.   Then I put on a new generator and regulator,  dealer explained “flashing” it (yea that made sparks…) and I wrecked that one too.  Removed both items. Installed three wire alternator.  The “new” generator is still on my shelf.  I was younger then and in a hurry. Probably today I could figure it out, if I had to.

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I think I may have figured out at least part of your issue, @Solocam8925   In reading through your posts, you keep saying the problem starts after you use your fog lights for awhile. If it is actually foggy, this shouldn’t be a problem. However, if you are using fog lights to chase away the dark, they will overheat without the fog to keep them cool, and draw excess voltage. If your chasing away dark, you should be using work lights (sometimes called field lights).  They will do a better job and don’t require fog for cooling. 

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11 hours ago, ihrondiesel said:

I think I may have figured out at least part of your issue, @Solocam8925   In reading through your posts, you keep saying the problem starts after you use your fog lights for awhile. If it is actually foggy, this shouldn’t be a problem. However, if you are using fog lights to chase away the dark, they will overheat without the fog to keep them cool, and draw excess voltage. If your chasing away dark, you should be using work lights (sometimes called field lights).  They will do a better job and don’t require fog for cooling. 

Gosh...I didn't know that...thats what I like about this site...knowledge freely shared......

Mike

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the tractor has wiring issues in the dash and has had key switch problems.

the alternator will not charge without exciting the stator. - its not like a generator   . I think you have wiring issues. a bench test of the alternator will not determine anything

get someone who knows what they are doing to fix it or keep throwing parts at it 

A simple voltmeter will tell you everything you need to know which includes if the lights draw too much , buy one at Autozone and install it in the cab permanently. with the lights on if it drops below 13.7 you have a problem 

if it was charging 26 volts it would boil the batteries and you would smell the acid. more than likely fry the lights and maybe blowup batteries- its not charging 26 volts IMHO 

 DC test!!!!!! Alternators make AC but they have a rectifier. DC test. There's some good advice in the thread and some not so good

 

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I don’t think I have typed or read anything in this topic so far that I would’ve said was not good advice.  Everybody was trying to help.

Now if somebody could help me here before I have to search on YouTube, when I replaced the batteries in this 1066 last week, the Bluetooth radio unpaired from my phone.  That’s a problem. Think I can remember how to mate them  back up..852CC5B3-A7FC-4752-AE4C-07C596655F52.thumb.jpeg.c9d8a4fc9ae47f6acdeb942408506218.jpegFA30A2C6-2E55-4814-B1F4-FF3166A92AB0.thumb.jpeg.f215e712fafe47144e7b55b49f62b759.jpeg

Pretty amazing that I can actually talk on my phone inside of these ancient cabs

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11 hours ago, stronger800 said:

I don’t think I have typed or read anything in this topic so far that I would’ve said was not good advice.  Everybody was trying to help.

Now if somebody could help me here before I have to search on YouTube, when I replaced the batteries in this 1066 last week, the Bluetooth radio unpaired from my phone.  That’s a problem. Think I can remember how to mate them  back up..852CC5B3-A7FC-4752-AE4C-07C596655F52.thumb.jpeg.c9d8a4fc9ae47f6acdeb942408506218.jpegFA30A2C6-2E55-4814-B1F4-FF3166A92AB0.thumb.jpeg.f215e712fafe47144e7b55b49f62b759.jpeg

Pretty amazing that I can actually talk on my phone inside of these ancient cabs

 

So what exactly is the bluetooth mating ritual???

😄

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It’s just Iike in a pickup, once  I found the right Settings screen.  That radio was only $100, probably ten years ago.  I’ve got four more like it and they’re all a bit different. Usually only need to reprogram them in the spring, after the batteries have been unhooked all winter.  Half of my problem was that I don’t keep a phone long enough to know how to work it correctly either. Not that I get new phones a lot, but my wife and daughters do, and they pass their hand me downs down to me. This one remembered the radio station presets even after having the batteries pulled,  yet, the one  I installed most recently doesn’t.  
USB ports are good for phone charging. I need to get a few of those wireless phone charging pads that you just set your phone over like in my truck console.   
 -working headlights and marker lights are completely related to cell phones too, My father still supports a flip phone, he doesn’t always hear it ring or notice, but if we’re working in the same field in the middle of the afternoon and he sees me turn on headlights, he knows that means to look at his phone and answer it, or to call me. That’s a bat signal he actually started when I was a kid. Headlights on meant he wanted the chopper box  or hay wagon  dropped at the other end of the field. Lights off, leave it on the end closest to you. We worked some small, irregular shaped fields. 

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On 9/22/2022 at 7:57 PM, stronger800 said:

You did not use it correctly.   Hook the negative terminal to the chassis of the tractor. Hook the positive to the positive wire on the starter, or on the positive post of the battery that goes directly to it. When you push down and hold the button on the tester as to apply a load, if your batteries are dead you should see the needle dive and read as such. Now, Let off the button observe where the needle is. Start the tractor. (Use your Jump pack or whatever). Observe needle. It should be at 13.5a or so.  There is an area on the gauge that is labeled “charging”, It will be towards the right hand side of the scale.  13.5a, Maybe higher, Since your batteries are low and the alternator is working harder to charge them. If it’s working. The needle should jump slightly and rise slightly when you Rev the tractor up, and down when you rev it way down. It should drop slightly and then recover when you turn the lights on. If it doesn’t, your alternator is bad

Did it your way. Got 12-13v

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Does it go up when you rev the tractor up? And then down slightly when you turn the lights on (turn the cab fan on as well if you have one) and then recover? Those things indicate that the alternator is doing its job. If the needle on your gauge just stays steady at 12 to 13, that means you’re just reading the battery  but not charging voltage

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1 hour ago, stronger800 said:

Does it go up when you rev the tractor up? And then down slightly when you turn the lights on (turn the cab fan on as well if you have one) and then recover? Those things indicate that the alternator is doing its job. If the needle on your gauge just stays steady at 12 to 13, that means you’re just reading the battery  but not charging voltage

I did not rev it. 1600??

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Even the smallest alternator should be able to handle those four lightbulbs. I have tiny alternators on my little utility tractors and they have more lights than that. I’d say it’s not charging, now we need to determine if the alternator is at fault or if it is a wiring issue. Might be easiest to remove the alternator now and take it to Napa or the like  for bench testing

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1 minute ago, stronger800 said:

One of the small terminals will have battery voltage the same as the big terminal right? What should the other small terminal have? 

If alternator is working. Same as the other two.  If it has ammeter still same as other two. If it has red light or resistor. It may be lower but must be six volt or higher to charge. Loss of voltage at either of the other two terminals is also no charge. Number 2 terminal is voltage sensing terminal. Number 1 is keyed hot start voltage which may be lower because of bulb or resistor but will be the same if charging. Because of backfeed which puts light out.

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modern alternators are getting very compact but that 10si can be from 37-140 amps just by changing the stator. physical size doesn't have much to do with output . Allis used to use a Niehoff the size of your head with 140(?) amp output

 I suggest at least 72 amps or preferably 100 . if there is no power on 3 terminals you either have to fix that issue or get a self-exciting 10 si . Sure would be nice to figure it all out and get your instruments working

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I think I have 70 and 100’s on the 1066’s, and 35’s on my cables fords (the fords have 4-7 utility lights, gauges and radios) (no problem).  
 

self exciting one wire jobber, would keep the tractor operational anyway, affordable and easy.  
Tape the other wires off, come back to wiring issues next time.     
when time and knowledge allows. 

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