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Case 1270 lights


Solocam8925
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Regarding battery life:  I generally get about 7 years, give or take, out of them regardless of what they're in. Just took a 9 year old pair of 3EHs out of the 1256 because the seam between the top and the body of the case started to leak- but the tractor was starting fine.  Sometimes less, usually when I've done something stupid like left the key on and drained them.  I agree with the theory your wiring is probably OK but you had a weak alternator that could keep the new batteries charged enough to start the tractor, but not enough to satisfy the demand of the lights. 

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Batteries are just new.. Shut the 1270 off after 10 min of running while its cooling down. Shut it off and turned it back on. Fires up like a charm. What I did was if the 1270 is going nowhere. I turn off the whole lights. If I'm plowing. I'll turn on the front and rear lights. Are you sure it's not the front and rear fog lights that I'm using that's causing the alternator to not charge the battery?? 

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11 minutes ago, Solocam8925 said:

Batteries are just new.. Shut the 1270 off after 10 min of running while its cooling down. Shut it off and turned it back on. Fires up like a charm. What I did was if the 1270 is going nowhere. I turn off the whole lights. If I'm plowing. I'll turn on the front and rear lights. Are you sure it's not the front and rear fog lights that I'm using that's causing the alternator to not charge the battery?? 

There has to be lots of places near you that could test your alternator for you. For all you know that alternator is just fine and you have a short in the wiring that is draining the batteries. Surely you have seen what happens when you have an unattended electrical fire? The batteries are new, ok we can probably rule those out. What about the alternator? What about the wiring? If you have a crescent wrench and some Vice grips just take it if off and take it somewhere, they probably will test it for free. As @jass1660 said, a cheap volt meter could answer all these questions. 

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You did not use it correctly.   Hook the negative terminal to the chassis of the tractor. Hook the positive to the positive wire on the starter, or on the positive post of the battery that goes directly to it. When you push down and hold the button on the tester as to apply a load, if your batteries are dead you should see the needle dive and read as such. Now, Let off the button observe where the needle is. Start the tractor. (Use your Jump pack or whatever). Observe needle. It should be at 13.5a or so.  There is an area on the gauge that is labeled “charging”, It will be towards the right hand side of the scale.  13.5a, Maybe higher, Since your batteries are low and the alternator is working harder to charge them. If it’s working. The needle should jump slightly and rise slightly when you Rev the tractor up, and down when you rev it way down. It should drop slightly and then recover when you turn the lights on. If it doesn’t, your alternator is bad

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If I remember correctly a few months ago the OP mentioned buying a 24 volt starter for this tractor. And then a 12 volt alternator will never work.  If it's not smoked inside by now. 

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