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Case 1270 lights


Solocam8925
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I was discing 10 acres fields for the last 2 nights. I have all the lights on when discing. Next day the 1270 is out of juice. I figured it's from using the lights.. Is that normal for the 1970s case tractors?? Or do you guys think the alternate is out?? It ran normal like always..

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Once a 1970s diesel is running it doesn't take any juice to stay running.

Charge your batteries and fire it up, turn all the lights on. If it holds at least 13.5 volts  then alternator is probably ok. If volts slowly drop off then you probably have a charging problem. 

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1 hour ago, iowaboy1965 said:

Once a 1970s diesel is running it doesn't take any juice to stay running.

Charge your batteries and fire it up, turn all the lights on. If it holds at least 13.5 volts  then alternator is probably ok. If volts slowly drop off then you probably have a charging problem. 

Just brought new batteries in the spring.. My gauges aren't working. So I'm clueless from this point.. I'll jump it. If the tractor goes out while discing. I'll assume it's the alternator...

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38 minutes ago, Solocam8925 said:

Just brought new batteries in the spring.. My gauges aren't working. So I'm clueless from this point.. I'll jump it. If the tractor goes out while discing. I'll assume it's the alternator...

Why do that? At least get a volt meter before you start throwing parts at it. 

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Used the jumpack to jump the 1270. It ran like normal. Took it for a bit discing. Still pulling. Gave it 10 minutes to cool down. Shut it off, then tried starting it. Not enough juice to crank.. I'm assuming the alternator is good... how long do you guys think those 2 12v batteries will last??

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6 minutes ago, Solocam8925 said:

Used the jumpack to jump the 1270. It ran like normal. Took it for a bit discing. Still pulling. Gave it 10 minutes to cool down. Shut it off, then tried starting it. Not enough juice to crank.. I'm assuming the alternator is good... how long do you guys think those 2 12v batteries will last??

They're not going to last much longer if you keep jumping them to start it. Ideally you need to put the batteries on a charger till they are back up to voltage. All youre doing with the jump pack is starting it with the jump pack, not the batteries. Do some tests. Your alternator is either shot or the wiring to it is bad. Ideally, you should actually take the time to track it down and fix the issues unless you love spending money on batteries and wasting time. 

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34 minutes ago, wendyoakscubs said:

They're not going to last much longer if you keep jumping them to start it. Ideally you need to put the batteries on a charger till they are back up to voltage. All youre doing with the jump pack is starting it with the jump pack, not the batteries. Do some tests. Your alternator is either shot or the wiring to it is bad. Ideally, you should actually take the time to track it down and fix the issues unless you love spending money on batteries and wasting time. 

Do you think it's because I'm using the front and rear fog lights for too long?? Before I was doing night tillage. Every week. It starts like a charm.

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20 minutes ago, snoshoe said:

Three questions. Is the alternator belt tight? Are you running full throttle? How many watts total are the lights you're running?

Belts are tight by play and I'm running at 2000rpms pulling my 22ft disc at 3rd gear 1st range. As for the lights. Two front fog lights and 2 rear fog lights. One on each side. Had those lights fixed to work when it was at the shop after the Powershift rebuilt..

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11 hours ago, Solocam8925 said:

I'm assuming the alternator is good... 

Never assume anything , when you do you make an ass u/me. Get a darn volt meter and run some tests.

I will repeat a 70s era all mechanical diesel will run all day long with out a battery or an alternator once it is running. The only thing you proved so far is the starter will work on a jump pack.

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Here’s a red neck “test”  that is free. Next time you jump it and get it running, turn on all the lights. Then go pull your negative battery terminals off. If it throws an arc/ spark and the lights stay On, with these terminals unhooked,  That means they are running off your alternator and that the alternator is working. It would be better to go to the auto parts store or even Harbor freight and buy a cheap alternator and battery tester though. Then you could test your alternator and your battery functions without unhooking anything. Simple device, there will be instructions on it.  I had a 1066 not start yesterday. It has started immediately every time that I hit the button all summer long, and then yesterday it was dead as a door nail. Grabbed my meter, one battery test 100%, alternator test 100%, other battery test completely dead. 0%. All terminals beautifully clean (important on a diesel).   Random failure. Will pick up a new set of batteries today. That’s how things go. My batteries still have  the stickers on them from when I purchased. dated April 2010, So they don’t owe me anything.  My ‘70s era  tractors I’ll have at least six of those old style  lights like you have, plus  two marker lights, interior lights, radio, phone charger Bluetooth  and fan. Never an electrical concern as long as you have good batteries and a functioning alternator.

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It is possible that your alternator has never worked, and that your new batteries didn’t have enough power in them to start your tractor all Summer as many times as you used it. I remember you had key switch problems, a wiring issue there could/will cause the alternator not to charge. Be best to buy the battery and alternator tester like I said, and check for power coming directly out of the alternator. That would also eliminate a wiring problem

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Another simple test to see if your alternator is charging is to do as follows. With the tractor running, take a screwdriver or any other iron based tool about eight inches in length and touch it to the center cap on the back of the alternator, opposite of the belts. There should be a slight magnetic pull if your alternator is charging properly.  The longer the tool, the more noticeable the pull will be. Also, don't use a magnetic screwdriver. I've used this field test to rule out a faulty alternator many times.

If the tractor started fine before you started using the lights there is a possibility that you have a low amperage alternator and it can't keep up with the draw of those lights, or the alternator was on the verge of failing and the draw of the lights put it over the edge.

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On 9/19/2022 at 5:57 AM, stronger800 said:

It is possible that your alternator has never worked, and that your new batteries didn’t have enough power in them to start your tractor all Summer as many times as you used it. I remember you had key switch problems, a wiring issue there could/will cause the alternator not to charge. Be best to buy the battery and alternator tester like I said, and check for power coming directly out of the alternator. That would also eliminate a wiring problem

From spring to summer. Every week. I start it. It fires up instantly. After using the fog lights for 2 whole nights recently. I noticed that the battery is out of juice. Replaced the batteries and it's back running.  Talked with one of the parts store guys. He's owned a 4020 and From him. he just recommended replacing the batteries and charging it.

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21 minutes ago, jass1660 said:

Good lord a $10 multimeter will tell you if the alternator is charging. I guess $400 a year for batteries is easier…

Not saying I won't test it.. but with new batteries. I can always recharge the other 2 batteries and replace it.

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4 minutes ago, stronger800 said:

Yes.  New battery’s coming again soon.  
12 years, few months, same idea. 01495F2A-C97D-470B-9344-3349192817B9.thumb.jpeg.4f90e165062c41b4e783dc9671ef82a5.jpeg
parts guy recommended that he sell you new batteries…surprise

When I chatted with the parts store guy. On his 4020 The alternator is good on the tractor. But it's not charging the batteries. It's one of the wires etc. 

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