Jump to content

SCH Cutter Bar Installation Question


Big Leonard
 Share

Recommended Posts

Hello all,

I just purchased a new SCH cutter bar with rollers for my case IH 1020 head.

It will be replacing the OEM 3 inch sickle.

My question is what do you do with the pan hold down clips, If you put them under the spacer plate where they are supposed to go you would have to shim all the other spacers to keep it straight. Maybe I am over annualizing it and it doesn't matter but want to do it right. I will be calling S I distributing tomorrow but they are closed now.

I have time tonight and would like to get it done.

It looks like I am going to have the same problem with the way the rock guard mounts.

Just wondering if anyone had the same issue when they switched over.

Thanks

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Some people say that is a problem but others I have talked to say they would never switch back.

I guess I will find out.

Not very cheap to purchase, like everything else nowadays.

No ideas on the floor pan hold down clips yet ??????

Link to comment
Share on other sites

We had a 1020 20' with the SCH bar dad put on in 1991 when he bought the head new. I should remember what your asking how that went together but it's been gone since 2003. First thing dad did was took off permanently, the rock guard. Short beans and that guard don't work well together. Uncle bought a used 1440 cable machine and a 820 around 1994. That 820 with the factory bar, buzzed those beans off right at ground level perfectly. Dad's 1020 with the SCH couldn't do that. It left stubble. When I bought a 30" 1020 in 2004 i was going to put a SCH on it. Service manager at the dealership told me he didn't think I should do that. Said the 3" cuts pretty good, so I never put one on, and it did cut closer than the 20' ever did with the SCH. If a head already has a SCH on I'd run it, but I don't think I would switch a 1020 over to SCH. Just my opinion only.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Cutter bars, this should get interesting.

Years ago had a 215 with a worn out SCH, price was on point, so I thought.

Fast forward green is gone and went to Red.

1020 that has been completely rebuilt.

Cary King Kut is what's on the 1020

Totally agree with cedar farm, twist of the wrench and a .020 feeler gauge.

Five minutes and your done.

Good luck with the SCH, remember old threads where some guys were running the guards upside down to get a closer cut.

Not sure if that can be done with the roller kit.

 

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Have run only SCH bars since 91 on 16.5, 20, & 22.5 ft 820s and 15, 20, & 30ft 1020s. Have been very satisfied with them. In answer to your question, I have always put the floor pan clips on top directly under the nut on the guard bolt and have had no issues.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, DT Fan said:

Ok, have to ask, SCH=1&1/2" cut? That is what my 16.5' 1020 is. It does ok. Wouldn't be adverse to a 3" cut either.

Surprised to see there are quick-cuts still out there running. CaseIH at one time offered a complete 3" cutterbar kit to replace the 1-1/2" cut. Sold a lot of those. And guys loved the change. If you change to any 3" cut you need to change the drive pulley. If I remember correct you need the 12"

Link to comment
Share on other sites

9 hours ago, cedar farm said:

Surprised to see there are quick-cuts still out there running. CaseIH at one time offered a complete 3" cutterbar kit to replace the 1-1/2" cut. Sold a lot of those. And guys loved the change. If you change to any 3" cut you need to change the drive pulley. If I remember correct you need the 12"

Like I said, it does ok. I would prefer 3" cut but have enough money in new parts going to run this for now.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

11 hours ago, cedar farm said:

Surprised to see there are quick-cuts still out there running. CaseIH at one time offered a complete 3" cutterbar kit to replace the 1-1/2" cut. 

When I was behind the Case IH parts counter back in the late 90's, the 1 1/2 cut was the latest and greatest.   Customers were converting 3" cut over.  Funny how things change!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Sorry I can't help you about the holddown clips

I will say I have always found it interesting, that many many tries to make different cutterbars---and some do work very well in certain crop/conditions---but it always seems like they come back to the old 3" section and guard for best overall performance.  Just like Cyrus McCormick worked out on the first successful reaper (his cutterbar design was what made it work).

Link to comment
Share on other sites

SCH was the best on the Dion 3 row corn head we had on a 1224 Dion chopper for a few years before we got a Class . I couldn't believe that a sickle bar was so trouble free in that application. Didn't make any difference in clean corn or really weedy corn it cut without any problems. Never changed a part in that system. 

I don't know if it will be an improvement or not in this application. My guess is that it might be unless other factors make it not work on the table ( if guards interrupt the flow etc) . One way to try is to run it that way. I'd keep all your old parts in a box or bucket just in case you want to convert back in a few years or sooner 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks for all the replies guy's

When I called SI distributing they told me there should be supplemental instructions specifically for a 1020 head.

Well someone forgot to send them with.

Anyway the floor pan hold down clips are supposed to be reshaped so you can bolt them on top of the guard.

I chose to leave them alone and ground out an 1/8 inch ( the thickness of the clip ) out of the new spacer plates that came with the new SCH cutting set up and bolted them exactly where they were, under the guard and spacer plate, It worked perfect.

Some people were saying that it gave them a higher cut then they liked, well when I was installing the new guards I bolted one of the old OEM guards back on right next to the new one and slid a straight edge between them and it will be cutting the thickness of a sickle section higher. I guess I will know how I like it in a couple weeks. Beans are very short this year, lots of pods but short. We really got shafted on the rain. Very dry.

Everyone have a safe harvest !!!!

 

 

IMG_3119.jpg

IMG_3120.jpg

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

38 minutes ago, Big Leonard said:

Thanks for all the replies guy's

When I called SI distributing they told me there should be supplemental instructions specifically for a 1020 head.

Well someone forgot to send them with.

Anyway the floor pan hold down clips are supposed to be reshaped so you can bolt them on top of the guard.

I chose to leave them alone and ground out an 1/8 inch ( the thickness of the clip ) out of the new spacer plates that came with the new SCH cutting set up and bolted them exactly where they were, under the guard and spacer plate, It worked perfect.

Some people were saying that it gave them a higher cut then they liked, well when I was installing the new guards I bolted one of the old OEM guards back on right next to the new one and slid a straight edge between them and it will be cutting the thickness of a sickle section higher. I guess I will know how I like it in a couple weeks. Beans are very short this year, lots of pods but short. We really got shafted on the rain. Very dry.

Everyone have a safe harvest !!!!

 

 

IMG_3119.jpg

IMG_3120.jpg

Hope it works well for you.  Is that how they recommend to alternate the sections?    Have not seen that before.  

Link to comment
Share on other sites

SCH flips every other section and when the knife slots in the guards get worn they have to be replaced..

No hold downs to keep the knife snug to the guard.

Both heads I've owned had worn out SCH, never ran a new one.

Looks like your doing a good job there Leonard!

Remember now the floor feed plates, the stock clips were modified and used longer guard bolts with a second top nut.

Had gaps in the ends of the header where the steel feed plates would settle to rear away from the knife back and allow beaners to fall through to the ground.

Does your new knife slide freely with it attached to the wobble box arm?

Keep us updated!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

11 hours ago, nate said:

Hope it works well for you.  Is that how they recommend to alternate the sections?    Have not seen that before.  

X-2! Would love to see how that cuts. I did see a gleaner head at a farm sale set up like that once. Parking was in a bean field, there were more uncut stalks than I've ever seen anywhere else.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The knife slides freely and quietly

The only longer carriage bolts I had to purchase were for the rock guard. One thing I thought was weird is all the flange nuts are smooth. You would think they would be serrated so they wouldn't loosen but they must know what they are doing. We will see !!!

Thanks

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

16 hours ago, nate said:

Hope it works well for you.  Is that how they recommend to alternate the sections?    Have not seen that before.  

Mine have all been that way since the 1st one in 91. There is also 2 levels of serration available now iirc, don't think i had a choice on my early ones

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Unfortunately, your content contains terms that we do not allow. Please edit your content to remove the highlighted words below.
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

 Share

×
×
  • Create New...