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1954 farmall 300 water problem


Farmall cub 1957
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So I recently acquired a 1954 Farmall 300. I had my head crack checked and it came out fine along with new valves and  planed. After installing the head with copper coat on the gasket in the right position it is getting water in the oil. Each day if you go out and crack the drain plug you’ll get water out of it. Any help would be appreciated as I am stumped. Thanks 

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Could be a cracked block Pull the pan and let it drip overnight. If you pressurize the radiator it would speed up the process.  Also because of the way the head is cast planing a head can make the triangular shaped openings in the head too big for some head gaskets to seal especially if it's the second or third time it's been planed.  Why did you pull the head ? Was this leak there before you pulled the head?

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Something else to consider is possible bottoming if the head bolts or head nuts since the head is now a little thinner than it was before planing.  It would have been a good idea to chase the threads on the head bolts with a die (or the threads in the block with a bottoming tap if the bolts came out whole).  Either scenario could cause the head to not be clamped uniformly or enough and cause it to leak at the gasket.  Good luck.

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Here's a couple things for you to check. One: did you torque the head to the appropriate value, and did you do so in stages? Two: did you run it for about 20 to 30 minutes afterwards and then re-torque? Three: as @axial_al said, are the headbolts bottoming out in the block and not holding tightly? Four: did you check sleeve protrusion and make sure a sleeve isn't proud of the block causing the gasket not to seal. And as a side note, some of those gaskets are directional and so if installed upside down, won't seal right. 

If you are sure that all those are correct, then you need to drop the oil pan, pressurize the cooling system, and try to pinpoint where it's leaking. The C169's aren't really known for cracking blocks or heads unless stored over winter with water in them, so there may be another issue. I can't remember off the top of my head, but I'm pretty sure the sleeves are dry and so a cracked sleeve oughten to leak. I'm sure someone with more knowledge will correct me if I'm mistaken. 

Mac

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This is my son’s tractor. We removed the head because the engine was locked up. 
At the advice of our one mechanic friend we had the head checked for cracks and redone. All checked good. They took .007” off when they surfaced it.  We also filled the block with water when the head was off to check the freeze plugs. The block held water over a week at the same level. 
 

I’m  thinking someone had the studs out and didn’t seal them when they put them back in. On the C169 do the studs go into the water jacket. Also according to the parts book there are three different lengths of studs but I can’t find any information on which ones go where.

Thanks for the advice and help. 

607CC2B1-2329-4AEC-A80D-B0A249612EE6.jpeg

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the parent bore of those engines is very thin and more prone to crack than the outside of the block IMHO

Farmall Dr and R190 have said to drop the pan and put a radiator tester on it- .do this before you remove the head again, It surprises me how many guys tear things apart before they try to troubleshoot and find nothing once its apart

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