As-swmo Posted August 10, 2022 Share Posted August 10, 2022 I'm working on a new to me 2388 case combine. Bought it at auction, got it home and separator and feeder worked like they should but had other repairs to be done-bearings out, auger bed cracked, etc. Got busy with other projects and it sat several months. started to get ready for corn harvest. Got the repairs needed made and now I can't get the separator or feeder to engage. If I "hotwire" the rotor clutch the separator will run, but the feeder will only twitch. Fuses all are good. Seat safety was bypassed when it came to me. The switches check out good and have power coming to the separator switch but does not have power to the solenoid. All hydraulic functions I've tried work. Other than the AC don't seem to have any other electrical issues, fluids all up, no error codes on cab post. Where do I need to start? Thanks in advance. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IHC5488 Posted August 10, 2022 Share Posted August 10, 2022 5 minutes ago, As-swmo said: I'm working on a new to me 2388 case combine. Bought it at auction, got it home and separator and feeder worked like they should but had other repairs to be done-bearings out, auger bed cracked, etc. Got busy with other projects and it sat several months. started to get ready for corn harvest. Got the repairs needed made and now I can't get the separator or feeder to engage. If I "hotwire" the rotor clutch the separator will run, but the feeder will only twitch. Fuses all are good. Seat safety was bypassed when it came to me. The switches check out good and have power coming to the separator switch but does not have power to the solenoid. All hydraulic functions I've tried work. Other than the AC don't seem to have any other electrical issues, fluids all up, no error codes on cab post. Where do I need to start? Thanks in advance. You have engine rpms over 1000 correct? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
As-swmo Posted August 11, 2022 Author Share Posted August 11, 2022 Yes, thank you. Have tried as low as 11 and as high as 1600. It worked like it should this spring and engages when I take current to the wires at the solenoid, so I'm fairly confident it's not a clutch issue. I knew there was an rpm sensor and the seat sensor, but I'm thinking something like that is my issue. The feeder will not run the reverser and even when I have the rotor hotwired it will not do more than twitch. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
756puller Posted August 11, 2022 Share Posted August 11, 2022 I'm betting you have a bad wire from the feeder switch to the solonoids that engage separator. I've had a few this year that I had a bad wire on. Pending on serial number the seperator solinoid is either on the PTO housing or it's right between where both side doors fold out on the left hand side. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
As-swmo Posted August 11, 2022 Author Share Posted August 11, 2022 Serial number is 199xxx the solenoid I was jumping is on the pto housing near the dipstick. Bad wire would make sense. Could have pinched or moved something (or mouse damage or something) while I was working on it. Would that explain why the feeder won't engage though? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
756puller Posted August 11, 2022 Share Posted August 11, 2022 Seperator engages before the feeder so in a way yes. Need to check the voltage to the separator clutch and get that one figured out first. The separator engages right beside the engine than a big shaft runs down the right hand side of the machine to the gearbox that runs the fan gear box than down to belt that runs the feeder house/header Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ksfarmdude Posted August 11, 2022 Share Posted August 11, 2022 Get your test light and start testing and tracing the wiring all the way from the separator switch down to the solenoids if there's power there tap on it maybe its stuck Has it be outside in the weather? maybe moisture is affecting it now Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ksfarmdude Posted August 11, 2022 Share Posted August 11, 2022 8 minutes ago, 756puller said: Seperator engages before the feeder so in a way yes. Need to check the voltage to the separator clutch and get that one figured out first. The separator engages right beside the engine than a big shaft runs down the right hand side of the machine to the gearbox that runs the fan gear box than down to belt that runs the feeder house/header Sounds like an electrical issue in nature Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
756puller Posted August 11, 2022 Share Posted August 11, 2022 If it's not getting a full 12 volts, the solenoid won't engage Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dale560 Posted August 11, 2022 Share Posted August 11, 2022 Hopefully someone else will chime in also. The separator issue can be traced all the way from seat console on back. You should get a case IH wiring diagram for it. The separator gets an enable from gauge cluster if I remember also feeder. Being you said you worked on auger bed and bearings I think there is a ground wire on cone or under feeder. I would start with wire diagram and work back. There are wires that cross on top of cone also that could be damaged Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
As-swmo Posted August 11, 2022 Author Share Posted August 11, 2022 Thank you all for the suggestions. I will report back what I learn. I ordered a service manual and operators manual but would like to get this figured out asap. I plan to run a wire from the switch to the solenoid first and see what I learn from there. I'm not used to all the relays and safeties on this new of machine yet. It's quite a step from L series Gleaners and even from the 1680 I'm more familiar with. Thanks again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
As-swmo Posted August 11, 2022 Author Share Posted August 11, 2022 2 hours ago, ksfarmdude said: Get your test light and start testing and tracing the wiring all the way from the separator switch down to the solenoids if there's power there tap on it maybe its stuck Has it be outside in the weather? maybe moisture is affecting it now Ill keep digging in the morning. It's been inside since I've owned it but spent a lot of time out before and I'm finding some other moisture related issues so who knows. Since it worked when I got it and just spent a few months in the back corner of the shed I keep thinking it shouldn't be anything too major... I hope! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dale560 Posted August 11, 2022 Share Posted August 11, 2022 7 hours ago, As-swmo said: Thank you all for the suggestions. I will report back what I learn. I ordered a service manual and operators manual but would like to get this figured out asap. I plan to run a wire from the switch to the solenoid first and see what I learn from there. I'm not used to all the relays and safeties on this new of machine yet. It's quite a step from L series Gleaners and even from the 1680 I'm more familiar with. Thanks again. That won’t work well. The separator switch sends power to dash panel. That lets the feeder turn on then. Also let’s the separator engage if rpm parameters are met. If you are going to manual bypass you will need to do same with feeder valve down by transmission. It will work for a corn head but won’t for a grain head as it won’t enable your reel speed to turn reel on. Best thing to do is remove seat and make sure all wires are plugged in then trace out of cab. As I mentioned there are ground wires I remember by feeder cone. The trouble you are having is wire from dash control is corroded or unplugged. There is also the engine oil pressure switch that will cause troubles for hydraulic enable. There are many posts on the combine forum about this and some Canadians had a system to bypass the controls and use a valve to manually adjust reel speed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
As-swmo Posted August 11, 2022 Author Share Posted August 11, 2022 1 hour ago, dale560 said: That won’t work well. The separator switch sends power to dash panel. That lets the feeder turn on then. Also let’s the separator engage if rpm parameters are met. If you are going to manual bypass you will need to do same with feeder valve down by transmission. It will work for a corn head but won’t for a grain head as it won’t enable your reel speed to turn reel on. Best thing to do is remove seat and make sure all wires are plugged in then trace out of cab. As I mentioned there are ground wires I remember by feeder cone. The trouble you are having is wire from dash control is corroded or unplugged. There is also the engine oil pressure switch that will cause troubles for hydraulic enable. There are many posts on the combine forum about this and some Canadians had a system to bypass the controls and use a valve to manually adjust reel speed. Thank you! Maybe the extra time now will save me having trouble come bean time. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeff-C-IL Posted August 11, 2022 Share Posted August 11, 2022 This may assist you! I'd check power at various points on the diagram - I realize there is stuff that goes off to another sheet, then comes back - but shold at least give you an idea. note that the switches are inputs to the "instrument panel" , which has the actual relays/outputs that turn on the clutch solenoids. Make sure all other switches, etc are off or in neutral. For instance- the JD 9000 series combines, the auger swing switch locks out the starter.....which has caused many service calls..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SDman Posted August 11, 2022 Share Posted August 11, 2022 Here's some verbiage to go with Jeff's schematic to explain whats supposed to happen when you kick the separator switch on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
As-swmo Posted August 11, 2022 Author Share Posted August 11, 2022 Thank you for the pictures and schematics! The problem now is: do I look at the numbers on the drawing or the numbers stamped on the plastic on the switch? Because #3 on the switch does not have any wires coming to it and corresponds to spade marked #2 on the wiring schematic above, (but is also maybe labeled #3 on the inside?) I'm still getting my head wrapped around all this. Thank you for all the help. I havent got to the bottom of the problem yet but found lots of things that apparently aren't the problem! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
As-swmo Posted August 12, 2022 Author Share Posted August 12, 2022 Worked on this off and on most of the day. Cleaned and checked all ground connections, tried to check relevant connections to the problem. Didn't get far trying to follow wires though. I did NOT check oil pressure sender. Can I put a jumper across the wires leading to it? The only thing I did find that might be relevant is that there is not signal between connector 1 on the separator switch and connector 3 on the feeder switch. When I put a jumper between the two and then engaged the separator switch it made a whining rattle sound near the PTO/hydro pump area. There was not any voltage to the solenoid for the pto. I'm about at my wits end on this. Thanks for all your help and schematics and pictures etc. I'm hoping it's something simple I haven't laid my hands on yet but I'm losing hope. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
756puller Posted August 12, 2022 Share Posted August 12, 2022 Pto gear box was full of hytran wasn't it? I kinda remember something about the separator not engaging the pto was low on oil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
As-swmo Posted August 12, 2022 Author Share Posted August 12, 2022 Yes. Pto hydraulic oil is good on dipstick. Maybe there is a sensor there that went bad though? The engine oil pressure switch shouldn't be relevant since header and auger functions correctly right? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
756puller Posted August 12, 2022 Share Posted August 12, 2022 Yes long as you have some of the hyd functions I'd rule out the engine oil pressure switch Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SDman Posted August 12, 2022 Share Posted August 12, 2022 Question....if you run the engine at LESS than 1000 rpm(say 900-950) and engage the separator....does the instrumentation give you the message "INCR" and "SPD" in the tach area? If it does, that would indicate to me that the wiring from the switch to the instrumentation/A post and header controller in the cab should be ok. If not, your problem is in the cab wiring somewhere. If the engine speed is less than 1000 rpm, the separator should not engage. Also, by the serial# you say you have....does the rotary screen not turn when the separator is off? Early model(1998 only) 2388s had the rotary screen spin/not spin in conjunction with separator engagement. CaseIH did offer a valve to change them over to 99 and newer models where the rotary screen spun any time the engine was on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Farmall Doctor Posted August 12, 2022 Share Posted August 12, 2022 “case IH” 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
As-swmo Posted August 12, 2022 Author Share Posted August 12, 2022 Yes. The rotary screen turns all the time. And also, yes, if I try to engage the switch below 1000 rpm it will say speed increase. When I took current direct from the battery to the sep. clutch the the rotor rpm showed like it should. If I turned on the cab switch (with the sep clutch hot wired) the cab post would flash "sep err" Even with the separator hot wired the feeder would not engage. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeff-C-IL Posted August 12, 2022 Share Posted August 12, 2022 Here is probably what you are missing....the power for the actual Seperator engagement switch comes from F12, red wire (460), bottom of section 30. This goes to pin 3 on the switch plug (switch terminal 5). Which then energizes the feeder switch..... Check that circuit - if you have 12V there, and after the switch, problem may be in the instrument panel itself. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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