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Case ih 7120 for farm stock pulling


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You can maximize hp easiest by adjusting the pump while testing it on a dyno. There is a point where more fuel not only doesn’t give more power, but actually gives less. It’s been a long time since I did it, but it involved a screwdriver and 10 mm wrench I believe.

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11 minutes ago, Kevin in ky said:

Does this pump have retard notches can you turn screw in too far

You CAN turn it too far. I turned up a 2144 combine with a 5.9 cummins a couple of weeks ago, same injection pump, Bosch "A" series. Remove the 4 bolt tin cover on the back of the governor housing, there will be oil, it may use 5&6 point tamper proof torques screws if its never been messed with. You could grind a notch in them or grind the heads off and replace them with ordinary 6 point bolts. There is a 10mm jam nut with a screw in it. IN=MORE FUEL. I wouldn't go more than 1 1/2 turns until you have a dyno to verify hp. The injection pump shop i talked with stated 3/4 of a turn = roughly 10%. I am not responsible for any issues you may have, i'm just a stranger on the internet.

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10 hours ago, Kevin in ky said:

Injector pump adjustment for max power on case ih 7120

I would be gauging transmission pressures before touching a fuel screw. If pressure is on the edge and you throw more fuel to it you could possibly end up doing a major transmission job. 

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If pulling a magnum, I was always told, never down shift below 7th gear, that jump between the clutch packs could cause a nasty jump, or slip.  I wouldn’t know, never pulled a magnum, but one guy in my area that did for awhile, rebuild his transmission a few times because he was insistent to downshift as far as possible!

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I pulled one many years ago and full fueled it , it pulled ok but it needed way more power . Make sure your accumulators are charged , turn the fuel screw in all the way then back it out one turn , then back your high idle screw out and don’t worry about the dash blinking on the rpms , it will start blinking at 2500 rpms but you can get some more out out of it . 
Slide your drawbar in all the way and try to get it at 20 “ to the top , I think I changed out drawbars with something else we had on the lot back then , so if you have something with a straight drawbar or if you can flip over the step type drawbar ? Just try to get that 20”  make sure the wheels are set perfect from side to side and the drawbar is dead center . Then air the tires with the tractor on the cement and have one of the bars straight down from the axel and air the tire until it just starts to life off the cement an 1/8” , check the psi and put the same in the other tire .

‘Danny 

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I find it interesting you want the drawbar all the way in.  On my 5088 I run all the way out.  I wasted lots of pulls with it pushed in, and wouldn't get enough weight transfer to the rear tires.  Wouldn't hardly pull the engine down before it spun out.  

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I have a hitch I had made for it. I’ve pulled it several times through the years.always does descent, seems powerful.it don’t smoke much on take off or when under a load, pulling against lots of deeres they seem to smoke a lot more,why is that. Thanks to all for your advice. I really like this forum and have learned a lot from y’all the past few years, finally decided to join so I could ask y’all questions when I needed to 

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If you need to shift below 7th gear then something is wrong.  I pulled my 7110 in 15,500 and 17,500 class once just for fun, bone stock with 18.4 x 42 tires and drawbar at 20 inches and spun out in 8th gear.

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I think 9th gear is as low as I’ve shifted down to pulling.in this class you can only downshift once.I’ll be pulling in 18000&20000 lb classes.some of these guys are taking their pumps off having them built and advancing timing. I don’t want to do all that for $20 and trophies 

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