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66 series ac


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Has anyone put a sanden ac compressor on a 66 series with factory deluxe can? I'm wondering if it's worth it and what it looks like. Use a 966 with r12 for pushing silage in the fall but since r12 costs so much now and the system leaks anyways I think I better keep the 93 year old dozer man happy in the heat.

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We have on the 86 series. Was it an improvement? Meh, no, not really, but the clutch seal doesn't leak anymore. It's not homely looking. I'd do all the hoses too. Too many times I've replaced just a compress and it leaked out.

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Why change compressor and go to that expense?  Blow down the the R12 system and charge it back with 134 that stuff will be more avaiable and much cheaper I've did that on afew old systems and it worked great , I still have a case of R12 I'll probably never use 

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20 minutes ago, jass1660 said:

134 isn’t cheap anymore either, being phased out. 

What do you call cheap then ? Its around 7 bucks here and been very steady in price last few years I've bought it

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I have 3 of those deluxe cabs on 66 series.  I still use the old school compressor.  Will crank out some dang cool air!

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3 hours ago, ksfarmdude said:

What do you call cheap then ? Its around 7 bucks here and been very steady in price last few years I've bought it

I’m hearing $350 for whatever size the normal bottle is from the shop guys plus need license to buy it that way of course you can get the small cans anywhere. 

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10 hours ago, 756puller said:

Has anyone put a sanden ac compressor on a 66 series with factory deluxe can? I'm wondering if it's worth it and what it looks like. Use a 966 with r12 for pushing silage in the fall but since r12 costs so much now and the system leaks anyways I think I better keep the 93 year old dozer man happy in the heat.

I did the complete retrofit on my 1566 with a sanden compressor, condenser out front, and new hoses.  AP Air makes a really nice hose kit that's plug and play.  I sourced the condenser ,oil cooler, and drier bracket from a salvage yard.  Is a sanden necessary?  Not really but they were made for 134a and take less power.  Put a new expansion valve in as there are subtle calibration differences with r134a.  Flush out your condenser(if using used) and evaporator with quality volatile solvent flush.  

Honestly I wish it was a bit colder, but I have to do some work on the roof panel as I think I have air bypassing the core and need some insulation.  

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13 hours ago, jass1660 said:

134 isn’t cheap anymore either, being phased out. 

Now what fairy dust are they touting as E friendly? I thought R134 was God's gift to the ozone.

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2 minutes ago, cedar farm said:

Now what fairy dust are they touting as E friendly? I thought R134 was God's gift to the ozone.

134 will be around along time don't kid yourself sure the brand new tractors combines what have you will change over to R1234YF sytems but it will not work in the old A/C systems

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2 hours ago, cedar farm said:

Now what fairy dust are they touting as E friendly? I thought R134 was God's gift to the ozone.

Was my thought too. I'm also old enough to remember when they went from r12 to 134 as r12 was suppose to be so bad for the ozone and 134 was gonna save the planet. 

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Red-Tek 12A is cheaper and works very well. 2lbs charge in a system that was originally a 4lb R12 system and they are happy. Although the best way is to use a recovery machine like I have. Pull it out and top up the charge and re-fill. I also inject an ounce of oil/dye in old systems from time to time. I have done my fair share of Sanden conversions but have also put new original style York compressors on and I don't notice any performance differences. 

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3 hours ago, 756puller said:

It's still available, heck r 12 is still available over seas.

Still available here if you know here to look 

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18 hours ago, 756puller said:

Is the ap air hose kit to run the hoses back to the condenser in the back of the cab or to the front like the 86 series?

You can get them either way

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