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Farmall m pulling hitch , wheelie bars


Dell
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Now that I have my tranny done I could use some help with what to do with my hitch and wheelie bars. How do I make the hitch adjust able for different hitch heights and still legal for antique tractor pulling any help . Pic would be nice.I’ve been told I need a d ring and wheelie bars , any ideas???

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  • Dell changed the title to Farmall m pulling hitch , wheelie bars

Use top links in place of the factory brace rods on the sides of the factory horseshoe drawbar is how many do the drawbar. Wheelie bars I have learned to like round pipe for the pads . More forgiving on the shins and the neighbor has plate bottoms and claims they are boat anchors once contact is made. 

On my 450 I simply flame cut a ring for the hitch and two grade 8 bolts and then a stack of washers gives me lots of adjustment . Cordless impact and a wrench to adjust easily 

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1 hour ago, TractormanMike.mb said:

You might be able to squeeze one more weight in there.

I was at 10,600 pictured . I do need another bar in the back end for more weight depending on the track and sled setup . I have 1,000? in front of the axle in this picture 

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I have a w6, similar setup. No wheelie bars yet, i used a twisted clevis. So far i pulled it on the stock drawbar. I now have it on the horseshoe but have yet to try it since the move.  I too use a bunch of washers to fine tune the height.

View recent photos.png

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bitty, really like the wheelie bar idea. Always thought when that square pad hit the ground and dug in it would be like an anchor. A guy could make something with an upturned leading edge and swivel but the pipe would be much faster/easier.

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Here is close up of my hitch.  There is brace that goes up to hitch point on transmission housing.  I would be careful about using pipe for foot.  Below is NTPA requirements a lot of association follow them.  I would just roll front edge up.  I would hate to see not allowed to pull because your wheelie bars are not correct.

 

Minimum requirements for the wheelie bars are as follows - A: 10"maximum above ground. B: The back of the wheelie bar is to extend 5" behind the tire radius. Pads - 5" square minimum, spaced minimum of 20" from outside each pad.

 

 

hitch picture.jpg

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I witnessed a very good running M break the angle iron brackets by.pulling from the U drawbar instead of pulling from the drawbar connected under the belly. The tractor flipped over backwards faster than u could imagine because  the brace rods were still connected. that made the pull point way higher. Luckily the skid was an old style with the rails high up so the weight box rolled back by gravity. the tractor hood hit the skid stopping it  the driver somehow didn't get hurt bad as he ended up down between the skid and tractor

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6 hours ago, twood1954 said:

Here is close up of my hitch.  There is brace that goes up to hitch point on transmission housing.  I would be careful about using pipe for foot.  Below is NTPA requirements a lot of association follow them.  I would just roll front edge up.  I would hate to see not allowed to pull because your wheelie bars are not correct.

 

Minimum requirements for the wheelie bars are as follows - A: 10"maximum above ground. B: The back of the wheelie bar is to extend 5" behind the tire radius. Pads - 5" square minimum, spaced minimum of 20" from outside each pad.

 

 

hitch picture.jpg

How wouldn't the pipe qualify? I have much more than 5" square minimum of area on the bottom 1/4 of the pipe. I have jacked up the tractor when weighted by the wheelie bars , one at a time 

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Make mine out of paper first on the dining room floor , used  the NATPA rules that way should be compliant every where I go. They are for  a Farmall C ,but you can do it to your tractor with what ever steel you have just if you make a model you don’t have a lot time and money in changes cause something does not fit .

just used what I had around to make them ,they pass technical  inspection at NATPA with any questions .

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3 minutes ago, 560Dennis said:

Make mine out of paper first on the dining room floor , used  the NATPA rules that way should be compliant every where I go. They are for  a Farmall C ,but you can do it to your tractor with what ever steel you have just if you make a model you don’t have a lot time and money in changes cause something does not fit .

just used what I had around to make them ,they pass technical  inspection at NATPA with any questions .

D74D37EE-41AB-43FC-A425-55F051AC26C4.jpeg

470F1A1F-C8D8-4F62-B9AF-DAA405C97B9B.jpeg

0B73AC22-5DDB-4B79-8719-594536838195.jpeg

4083ABE9-9978-4D9D-AC5C-601F093EF105.jpeg

B13D4127-1299-443F-A356-F302577F884F.jpeg

EFD72136-BA5A-46DC-BA28-987954A9D9D8.jpeg

A719100F-475A-434A-984C-73435074D11A.jpeg

0654A353-0D8A-4A76-A36F-618A1D55F757.jpeg

Might as well add the hitch ,up thight and as close to axle center as NATPA will let me . Mounted cultivators up and over hitch and hitch for shows I’m going to . Made pull ring for over hitch to get maximum height .And easy to lower elsewhere if they have different height .

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On 7/16/2022 at 3:39 PM, twood1954 said:

Here is close up of my hitch.  There is brace that goes up to hitch point on transmission housing.  I would be careful about using pipe for foot.  Below is NTPA requirements a lot of association follow them.  I would just roll front edge up.  I would hate to see not allowed to pull because your wheelie bars are not correct.

 

Minimum requirements for the wheelie bars are as follows - A: 10"maximum above ground. B: The back of the wheelie bar is to extend 5" behind the tire radius. Pads - 5" square minimum, spaced minimum of 20" from outside each pad.

 

 

hitch picture.jpg

 

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1 hour ago, twood1954 said:

Here is why I am so anal about proper wheelie bars.  One accident could end pulling when insurance gets too expense to buy.  Be careful and have fun.

oliver flipped.jpg

This is why a lot of smaller shows and celebrations are eliminating tractor pulls.  Cost of insurance is prohibitive. 

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