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460 gas heat riser


AKwelder
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So my 460 is bogging down under load, it’s hot and humid today (at least for us). The heat riser weight doesn’t have a spring, it’s on my to do list. 
 

question, is it supposed to be down and to the front when hot, or back and up?  

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Ok, I got it home, a few more details

Run down the hill and pulling light loads and it’s fine.

in the winter it frosts up the intake if I don’t run Heet.

the weight on the exhaust is rotated clockwise and is down and forward.

starts without choke after a bit of turning over, but nothing excessive 

running up the hill to the house pulling a dump trailer, it would start to surge, and then stall.  Wait a couple minutes and it run again for a few minutes and repeat.  Water running off the intake.

 

maybe I will wire it up and back

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2 minutes ago, snoshoe said:

This could be me wrong again but neither. Down and back closes off the heat box and let's exhaust straight out the pipe. Straight up closes manifold and directs exhaust through heat box first. Yours is misassembled.

I was typing and just saw your reply.  Sounds like turning it counterclockwise is for running hot?  

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The weight being straight up heats the intake manifold... hence, the coil spring when cold holds it there. As the coil spring heats up it relaxes and allows the weight to go to the front, and closes off the passage that heats the intake. In testing and tuning while waiting for a new spring to arrive I have used a piece of mechanics wire to hold it in the "hot" position.  I see that Steiner tractor parts now offers that spring! P.N. IHS 3353 for $26.50 usd. The last one I bought from IHC was $50. I have seen many manifolds that were completely full of carbon and crud, and even with a working heat riser it would stay cold. 

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2 minutes ago, AKwelder said:

I was typing and just saw your reply.  Sounds like turning it counterclockwise is for running 

Assembled correctly counter clockwise would be straight up which would make the manifold hot. If your butterfly is on wrong side of stop as I suspect. Clockwise would put it straight up again making manifold hot. Counter clockwise. Weight forward but not fully down. Leaves manifold partially closed. Not warm enough in cold weather. To hot in warm.

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3 minutes ago, snoshoe said:

Concentrated on question. Not enough on symptoms. I'm thinking fuel supply or plugs to hot.

I pulled the carb drain to make sure I didn’t have any water or crude. Not a very good flow in my opinion. I may be out running my fuel supply. 

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For driveability, that heat riser is the most important part of the whole tractor.

If this don't work right, these can be the most cold blooded POS you have ever driven.

Whenever you let the clutch out, it dies, if you don't pull the choke quick enough.

A very aggravating tractor when this don't work!

 

 

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1 hour ago, Diesel Doctor said:

For driveability, that heat riser is the most important part of the whole tractor.

If this don't work right, these can be the most cold blooded POS you have ever driven.

Whenever you let the clutch out, it dies, if you don't pull the choke quick enough.

A very aggravating tractor when this don't work!

 

 

100%!! I had an old 460 in the shop with driveability issues many years ago. It ran, but low compression, etc. I put that expensive spring on the manifold and it operated like a new tractor! I had to fight with a 656 owner in the past that would for some reason rather pay me to do a service call to change spark plugs than buy the new spring! ugh. struggles. 

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Well,  I went and blew out the fuel line, and cleaned the sediment bowl and carb screen.  When I turned the fuel on I noticed the bowl was slow to fill.  Took the cap off the tank and blew from the carb line through it and into the tank, and now I have a new tractor. Ran up the hill just like old times.
 

Thanks for the help.

 

I hope to do fix a few issues this winter. 

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On 7/2/2022 at 7:03 PM, AKwelder said:

  Took the cap off the tank and blew from the carb line through it and into the tank, and now I have a new tractor. Ran up the hill just like old times.
 

You probably know that you have debris in the fuel tank.  This will repeat itself until the debris is removed.  Drain the tank, remove the sediment bowl and flush the tank.  I have a fuel barrel hand pump that I do this with.  I pump the gas out, into the fuel barrel, then catch the "rinse" fuel in a can under the outlet and pour it into the supply barrel so that it is pumped through the filter on the hand pump.   I recently added fuel with 5 gallon cans and introduced new debris, so I will be doing this again.  No more fuel into the tractor from an unfiltered can.

 

Neal

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On 7/5/2022 at 7:00 AM, naedlaen said:

You probably know that you have debris in the fuel tank.  This will repeat itself until the debris is removed.  Drain the tank, remove the sediment bowl and flush the tank.  I have a fuel barrel hand pump that I do this with.  I pump the gas out, into the fuel barrel, then catch the "rinse" fuel in a can under the outlet and pour it into the supply barrel so that it is pumped through the filter on the hand pump.   I recently added fuel with 5 gallon cans and introduced new debris, so I will be doing this again.  No more fuel into the tractor from an unfiltered can.

 

Neal

Yep. Some debris is starting to accumulate in the sediment bowl. Another item on my todo list

 

 

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