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New to Me 1953 Super M w/ M & W Hand Clutch


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As to IF your new SM will pull your 11-1/2 ft IH disk, a very educated guess on my part is.....Maybe.  Your rear tires and those BIG rear weights will help. Dad tried pulling a 14 ft Krause disk with his new to him Super M-TA, when he bought M&W direct axle duals he could finally pull it.  We pulled that disk some with the JD R diesel, but only old corn ground, disking any plowed ground was done with the SM-TA with duals. The spring we got the 450 Farmall we also got a new Kewanee 12 ft 4 inch disk, 450 with duals just played with it. In fact, disking stalks to plow I disked some of our leveler fields in 4th gear, 6-1/2 mph.

     Assuming you still have stock gearing, 3rd gear is 5 mph, 2nd is 3.8 mph. Hope you can run in 3rd. Maybe carry a little weight of the disk on the tires in plowed ground.

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One difference in a disc brake tractor and a band brake one is the M&W clutch cover bolts direct to the transmission housing on a band brake M like the brake cover. On a late M or SM a adapter plate is bolted onto the differential carrier retaining bolts with different bolts to mount the M&W clutch or brake cover. Adapter plate also retains the bull pinion bearing and bull pinion. Worked with both before but memory is fading. Pretty sure though the M&W shaft that goes in the differential gear and out to clutch is longer than a band brake M one. Also a few other differences.  Unless owner modified all the M&W clutches I messed with had a straight shift lever with knob above the leather hole cover.  But bent ones may be around. One thing  helpful on a disc brake tractor is the unit can be installed or removed without going inside transmission housing to  move or remove a bull gear like a band brake tractor. Dave

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12 hours ago, DR.EVIL said:

As to IF your new SM will pull your 11-1/2 ft IH disk, a very educated guess on my part is.....Maybe.  Your rear tires and those BIG rear weights will help. Dad tried pulling a 14 ft Krause disk with his new to him Super M-TA, when he bought M&W direct axle duals he could finally pull it.  We pulled that disk some with the JD R diesel, but only old corn ground, disking any plowed ground was done with the SM-TA with duals. The spring we got the 450 Farmall we also got a new Kewanee 12 ft 4 inch disk, 450 with duals just played with it. In fact, disking stalks to plow I disked some of our leveler fields in 4th gear, 6-1/2 mph.

     Assuming you still have stock gearing, 3rd gear is 5 mph, 2nd is 3.8 mph. Hope you can run in 3rd. Maybe carry a little weight of the disk on the tires in plowed ground.

I did enough searching around on here and found a few videos indicating it was possible. I'll have to see how it goes with my soil and in whatever shape this engine is in. Duals would be neat but I'm hoping I don't need them. Thanks for sharing your own experience. Sounds like I may be close to the limits. I am unlikely to be disking much plowed ground with the disk buried to the spools, so that should help. This would mostly be for (hopefully fairly shallow) tillage in wheat, milo, and bean stubble, plus some cover crops. At least that's the plan for a few years from now. 5 MPH sounds pretty good to me if the SM will do it!

In what way could I not have stock gearing in this tractor? Was there a way to swap gears in them? It doesn't have an M & W 9 speed or anything like that, that would be obvious from the outside.

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1 hour ago, DWV said:

One difference in a disc brake tractor and a band brake one is the M&W clutch cover bolts direct to the transmission housing on a band brake M like the brake cover. On a late M or SM a adapter plate is bolted onto the differential carrier retaining bolts with different bolts to mount the M&W clutch or brake cover. Adapter plate also retains the bull pinion bearing and bull pinion. Worked with both before but memory is fading. Pretty sure though the M&W shaft that goes in the differential gear and out to clutch is longer than a band brake M one. Also a few other differences.  Unless owner modified all the M&W clutches I messed with had a straight shift lever with knob above the leather hole cover.  But bent ones may be around. One thing  helpful on a disc brake tractor is the unit can be installed or removed without going inside transmission housing to  move or remove a bull gear like a band brake tractor. Dave

So I looked around online and found a couple of different versions of the manual for these, and some showed a straight lever and some showed one like Binderoid's earlier picture that had the two bends down fairly low. So apparently both were made. Mine is probably a straight one unless someone torched out the bends. Good to know it may be a little easier to service than one for an older tractor with band brakes.

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  • 4 weeks later...

A forum member was able to sell me a spare cover (thanks!) so I got that installed. It works much better than the machined homemade plate did. I also fixed up the lever by welding a grade 5 5/8-18 bolt that I cut off to the bottom of it. Using my fish scale I am somewhere just barely north of 30 lbs. of force to move the handle, which should be a good setting for not using the hand clutch based on feedback on here. I did tighten the adjustment nut slightly to achieve this.

I should probably start a project thread for this tractor in the appropriate forum as I try to get it running. I stole some parts from one of my ACs and managed to get weak spark. The condenser i this tractor appears to be shot so I'm waiting on an ignition kit. Hopefully I will know soon enough whether the hand clutch plates are in good enough shape.

20220716_204124.jpeg

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  • 3 weeks later...

One more question on the hand clutch... When I let the foot clutch out on the tractor to drive forwards or backwards, the hand clutch lever would kick forwards and backwards some. It's like there is some slop somewhere it is taking up and allowing some free play in that lever, and it's flipping back and forth. The hand clutch stays engaged though.

I know I need to get in there and clean it up, and probably replace a seal, but would this be a sign of any other problem? Or is it normal for the hand clutch handle to flip forwards and backwards some when letting out the foot clutch and putting power down to the wheels?

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