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966 range shifter fork questions


JaredT
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Planting corn a couple of weeks ago and the 966 wont come out of high range. Finished planting the last 30 acres in 1st high and never backing up. Got it in the shed today, after talking to the local mechanic, pulled the range transmission cover and just as he said, the snap ring on the shaft the fork is gone and shaft slid back dropping the fork. I understand all I have to do is slide the shaft back into the fork and put the new snap ring on.

My question, what is the hole in the shifter fork for and why is there this in the shaft? I thought the shifter fork just slid on the shaft and the shaft is here just to hold it in place? It almost looks like the hole in the fork was threaded at some time? And the shaft looks like a broken bolt or roll pin.16553417816226496188181451899077.thumb.jpg.d9231f6e85bb25234a251d755d14e15d.jpg16553418254006232411229090683222.thumb.jpg.9917a1890750d9c1af0a2e6547cd6bfc.jpg

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you answered  your own questions. yes the bolt is broken off in the shaft. you may be able to spin it out by trying to drill into it from the other side. Just pack some rags under it to catch threaded part. It's a common problem . Later tractors had a snap ring but it fell off frequently. The last change I know of uses a shaft with a groove for a heavy duty c- shaped wire ring . the shaft can be removed by removing the top link plate and reaching in by a long armed guy. 

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If it was me. I would be looking for a shaft with two grooves and two wire rings. One on each side of fork. Seemed to be the fix that worked. Sometimes had to grind a little off fork to get second ring on. A piece of 3/4" pipe with a pin or bolt through it a couple inches from one end was a big help to put that shaft in.

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So that fork actually bolts to the shaft and the bolt snapped off? No snap rings or c clips on this one? I thought the fork just slid and turned on the shaft, apparently the shaft turns and slides with the fork? What grade bolt is that, grade 5? I would think grade 8 might be too hard and break easier. 

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grade 8 bolt is what IH spec'd in a service bulletin but a much better solution was the 2 snap ring shaft as mentioned above.

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You need 1 of 148503C1 and 2 rings, p/n 148501C1 to update to the latest and greatest shift rail and retention rings.

The shift rail can be removed through the oval opening above the PTO, Some use a hose to hold the shaft but I can get my short, thick arms in there and replace with my hand.

They also recommend using shift fork 398279R2, but at $915.00 US CNH can go pound sand.

It is good practice to add a chamfer in the ends of the shift fork if it does not have them. The chamfer will lock the ring in place, where if the end is squared off it could maybe dislodge the retaining rings.

It was also common for the rail to break at the bolt hole back in the day.
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43 minutes ago, TB5288 said:

I think I'd be replacing that shift fork.

I would be welding in the divot in the slot and building up the pads if worn but $900 for a new fork? No.

Actually I welded quite a few of those when they were nowhere near that price.

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