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AngrySailor’s random machining, motors, fix it or (explitive) it thread


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Ready for the oil pan. Cleaned it out and found a couple cracked tack welds that hold baffling in. Goi g to repair that and the bottom end is done. Heads are ready to bolt on too. Time for a cold snack rn though. 

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3 hours ago, AngrySailor said:

Dafuq it’s snowing here... don’t know if the pic gets it but that’s wet snow coming down. 

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We had some right before lunch.

I was mowing the yard for the first time and there was a small snow shower

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Days off fly, time on the ship drags on but it recharges the piggy bank for go fast parts

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21 minutes ago, hardtail said:

Days off fly, time on the ship drags on but it recharges the piggy bank for go fast parts

Yeah... probably heading back Saturday 

 

gotta check if the smaller manifold fits these heads better before I match them to the big one...

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You might try it, I remember there was a rectangle port manifold that would work better on oval heads, probably increased the velocity vs the negative effects of the turbulence?

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4 minutes ago, hardtail said:

You might try it, I remember there was a rectangle port manifold that would work better on oval heads, probably increased the velocity vs the negative effects of the turbulence?

I doubt you’d feel any difference in the seat of your pants by matching that, maybe a little top end on a dyno but it may won’t hurt anywhere but high rpm power. That manifold and carb can out flow those heads also the cross section area of the port is smallest at the pushrod reliefs so that’s the bottle neck. Generally intake ports aren’t desirable to be mirror polished as some turbulence helps atomize or keep fuel atomized. Rec ports can have low rpm velocity issues if you’re a granny driver, I got a heavy loud pedal foot. 

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Dang got awful close, should be something to look forward to next stretch, that's gonna be lots of fun in that truck the way it's setup 😜

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12 minutes ago, hardtail said:

Dang got awful close, should be something to look forward to next stretch, that's gonna be lots of fun in that truck the way it's setup 😜

Just another few days would have made a big difference. Didn’t pull 18hr shifts on it or anything either. It’s supposed to be fun, would have been a job to push much harder at it... 

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Dayum! These lifters are all pressure pin oiled. Sweet! Just gotta set the lash and bolt down the intake or “dome” as they seem to call it down east here...  packing my bags today also, leave the house at 2am to catch my flight. Fug...

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Quite the top end stud girdle system.

Fun to see a BBC go together.  I spent a lot of time reading Bill Jenkins’ book on the SBC when I was just out of high school, but haven’t seen much on the BB.

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On 5/17/2023 at 3:15 PM, AngrySailor said:

It’s got a place on the shelf! Knew it was a keeper but Über rare? 
 

Got the cam degree’d 106.5 intake center line. Time to button up the bottom end. Finally found the cam thrust button also. Checked the timing tab pointer and she’s bang on TDC now. 
 

helped pops stand up the first of his new man cave today as well. 
 

looks like back to the ship Saturday, was supposed to get a transport truck load of forklifts Friday but it’s been delayed till Monday. Looks like pops will be unloading...

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Curious,can I do that degree wheel on the Farmall c ? Angle spur gear 33/66 ,want to check it to see where it is !

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1 hour ago, 560Dennis said:

Curious,can I do that degree wheel on the Farmall c ? Angle spur gear 33/66 ,want to check it to see where it is !

Yeah you could. You need to set the wheel to TDC accurately typically with a piston stop first though. Opening and closing readings and advertised duration are usually taken at 0.006” tappet lift and effective duration at 0.050”. You could send your existing cam for a regrind or even have a billet bump stick made if you want to soup it up! 

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This was my Bible, used to know a lot of part numbers and factory good stuff, then a guy asked to borrow it and never got it back but I think I have another

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15 hours ago, AngrySailor said:

Yeah you could. You need to set the wheel to TDC accurately typically with a piston stop first though. Opening and closing readings and advertised duration are usually taken at 0.006” tappet lift and effective duration at 0.050”. You could send your existing cam for a regrind or even have a billet bump stick made if you want to soup it up! 

Well when we get there I’ll call you cause I’m not sure how to do the tapped measurement without an extra long dial indicator rod , 

Not going to bump this one up , it’s daddy’s tractor . just blue print steps 

I feel 
If I want to bump one up I’ll buy it and take it to the limits . Not sure if I want to spend the money for a two hour drive each way ,60 second pull and a week of preparation, done that. 

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21 hours ago, 560Dennis said:

Well when we get there I’ll call you cause I’m not sure how to do the tapped measurement without an extra long dial indicator rod , 

Not going to bump this one up , it’s daddy’s tractor . just blue print steps 

I feel 
If I want to bump one up I’ll buy it and take it to the limits . Not sure if I want to spend the money for a two hour drive each way ,60 second pull and a week of preparation, done that. 

If it’s a flathead just put a shim between the tappet and valve stem that holds the valve just off the seat at all times then put your dial indicator on the valve head. Flatheads are hard to make power with as compression ratio is so low. As you reduce chamber volume you reach the point of diminishing returns very quickly as flow to the valves starts getting restricted. Serious flathead power would love forced induction... turbski it! 

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Farmall c is overhead valve 4 cyl. But low compression compared to an automotive applications. 

Glad you made it to the ship safely. Hope your able to catch up on your rest this week. 

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