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AngrySailor’s random machining, motors, fix it or (explitive) it thread


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On 5/8/2023 at 2:23 PM, AngrySailor said:

Starter fits, seE if it holds.  This block ready for bores, lifter bore hone and open up the rod/main clearance. Dropping it of tomorrow and picking up the ‘54 to assemble. 

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Where the counter bore broke thru , did you just retap the bell house thread ?

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Going to wash the block, scrub the oil galleries and she’s ready to start assembly. Hoping to have the short block at least done today. Went to hook up my pressure washer and remembered pops borrowed my garden hoses... they’re back today so I ran over just now and fed there retarded three legged cat, grabbed the hoses back to the shop to wash parts next. gg BIG BIG BIG BLOCK!

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Engine brush kit I ordered didn’t come in so I’m abusing an old rifle cleaning kit... man for being ranked twice this junk yard block is still dirty. The forward oil gallery from the main to the cam journal was full of crap. Got everything scrubbed through now, about ready to pressure wash and oil it down. 

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Washed and brushed, galley plugs in, crank washed. Bearing clearance measured... a tad loose on the rear main. It’s going together 🤪 it’ll be fine, big oil pump, thick oil. Better a tad loose than tight.  

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3 hours ago, AngrySailor said:

Engine brush kit I ordered didn’t come in so I’m abusing an old rifle cleaning kit... man for being ranked twice this junk yard block is still dirty. The forward oil gallery from the main to the cam journal was full of crap. Got everything scrubbed through now, about ready to pressure wash and oil it down. 

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Praise the lord you got that crud out there. Imagine if you didn’t persevere and go thru the exercise to make sure those passages were clear .bravo 

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Crank in, thrust seated, even remembered the rear main seal. One rod and piston in for deck clearance check... hmmm she’s a little “spicy”... have to measure pop out, probably be milking the quench area of the pistons.

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I’m actually able to get most of it in one fixturing, seeing as we’re not the space shuttle I think I can clean the rest up with a sanding roll. Going to verify “zero deck” with one piston the set up and cut the rear the same. I basically don’t care how much comes off so long as they’re close to the same and most importantly there’s enough quench that they don’t hit the head. Forged piston clearance is loose cold and they’re short skirt, high pin pistons so they rock a ton in the bore cold. 

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Oh no... this is the Fordson major I did the pump on. It didn’t run away, buddy said it showed good oil pressure but look at the heat on the rod... that didn’t happen instantly... what a shame, there’s coolant there too. She’s hurt bad, anyone got an engine or block for this poor kid? 

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Was there work done to the rotating elements when the pump got worked on?

Block damage from a rod failure isn’t automatically fatal. This is a Continental L478 gasoline engine that had a rod poke a leg out of bed. Somebody touched up the dings on the cam and crank, bored and sleeved that hole, put a new rod and piston in, bolted a patch on the new window in the crank case — and ran it some more. 

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49 minutes ago, Gearclash said:

Was there work done to the rotating elements when the pump got worked on?

Block damage from a rod failure isn’t automatically fatal. This is a Continental L478 gasoline engine that had a rod poke a leg out of bed. Somebody touched up the dings on the cam and crank, bored and sleeved that hole, put a new rod and piston in, bolted a patch on the new window in the crank case — and ran it some more. 

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No work on the engine other than oil and filter change, valve clearance and the pump work. It had oil pressure and no knock when it left. I ran it for near two hours here with fresh oil. The oil that came out was bad, sludge but no bearing material. It was neglected for sure before it was parked. I’m sure that engine could be fixed but it’s not in the kids budget.  

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1 hour ago, Rawleigh99 said:

Sailor are you using playdoh to check your quench?

Measuring at the moment. Now that the pistons are milled to zero deck the piston rocks 0.012” below the deck and 0.012” above the deck.  At zero deck quench will be 0.39” with the fel-pro 1027 gaskets. Probably use some just to check piston to valve quick as I don’t want to remove valve springs to put test springs on and these big blocks have lots of room at this cam and piston dome level. It’s also a bit of a known combination with this cam and head. Theres likely over 1/4” piston to valve or more but a quick check never hurts. 

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Holy macaroni lots of cleaning... gotta pull all the rings and check the gaps as the bores are tighter than what they were gapped at. Pistons all milled for zero deck. Was hoping to have the short block done today but pops showed up with the not tractor 8N, the sunnen and a bunch of other stuff. 

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1 hour ago, AngrySailor said:

The eagle has landed. 

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Don’t see isky 

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27 minutes ago, AngrySailor said:

Holy macaroni lots of cleaning... gotta pull all the rings and check the gaps as the bores are tighter than what they were gapped at. Pistons all milled for zero deck. Was hoping to have the short block done today but pops showed up with the not tractor 8N, the sunnen and a bunch of other stuff. 

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Those mercury tractors ? 

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23 hours ago, AngrySailor said:

Oh no... this is the Fordson major I did the pump on. It didn’t run away, buddy said it showed good oil pressure but look at the heat on the rod... that didn’t happen instantly... what a shame, there’s coolant there too. She’s hurt bad, anyone got an engine or block for this poor kid? 

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Salvage yard near here had a few Fordson Majors when I was lookin for parts for mine last year. C&L Tractor in Dandridge, TN. Long ways from you, though.

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20 minutes ago, TN Hillbilly said:

Salvage yard near here had a few Fordson Majors when I was lookin for parts for mine last year. C&L Tractor in Dandridge, TN. Long ways from you, though.

Thanks, might be worth a call as we have some friends who long haul truck... 

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