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5240 with 520 loader.


Ericlj350
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New to the forum. 

Just bought a 5240 with case 520 self leveling loader on it. I have a few questions about things I'd like imput on if possible. 

First, the 520 is SL. Is there a way to make this a NSL? Not a fan of self leveling loaders on our farm. Can I leave the extra supports and just do away with the block?

I've been messing with the controls and the 3 point does not move using the lever. The dial seems to be unresponsive. The only way it will move is with the small joystick type control. It lowers very slowly like a bleed off. But seems to raise with speed and power. 

Not alot of info about this tractor. It's a 1992 model with almost 12k hours. 

The final thing right now. I have no blower fan. Do I need to remove the roof to replace the fan and the fan resistor? The wiper works so I'm assuming the relay is good. Last owner stated it worked on high. 

Thanks in advance for any and all help. 


 

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Should not be much of a challenge to get rid of self-leveling. Just figure out a way of disconnecting the linkage at the back of the loader and a way to keep the rest of the linkage in a fixed position. If you just let it flop I think the bucket won't roll back enough anymore, plus it will be impossible to control angle as it will want to flop up.

On the 3pt, the joystick control is the raise-lower.

The lever is the position control. You set it to the level you want the 3pt to drop to, and click the joystick ahead to lower it to that preset level, or you can adjust the depth using that lever with the joystick clicked forward.

The 3pt does not have down pressure so it lowers slowly with no weight on it. As long as it comes down there is nothing wrong.

Dial is the draft control. How that works I don't know. On several occasions I've been plowing along and the front of the plow just raises out of the ground for no reason. I have touched nothing. Last time I used it I just set it all the way to position and left it there.

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I had a 520 self leveling and a 510 non self leveling. I won't ever have a non self leveling again. Too slow of cycle times when it takes oil to level while using oil to raise . Uses more fuel that way also

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I've used both self leveling and non self leveling.  My 2 cents is they just take getting used to.  If there is ever a chance you are going to sell the loader put your parts in a safe place.  With missing parts it is going to bring much less then if correct and complete.

I have a 5250 with a Woods loader painted to look like a cih loader.  

 

 

 

 

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To stop the self level would I be able to remove the hydraulic valving for the dump cylinders then hook the uppers and lowers to their respective places? 

Could the upper brackets get a pin and plate through them and weld them solid? The welds could be cut if it ever needed to be self level again. 

The self leveling work for some but I've got to teach a old dog new tricks. Might be easier to do some welding. 

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On 6/10/2022 at 3:41 PM, Ericlj350 said:

To stop the self level would I be able to remove the hydraulic valving for the dump cylinders then hook the uppers and lowers to their respective places? 

What hydraulic valving? I thought the 520 was all mechanical.

Just remove the long link along the top and figure out a way to secure the floppy triangle part... Drill and pin, weld, whatever you feel most comfortable with.

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6 hours ago, Matt Kirsch said:

What hydraulic valving? I thought the 520 was all mechanical.

Just remove the long link along the top and figure out a way to secure the floppy triangle part... Drill and pin, weld, whatever you feel most comfortable with.

There is a relief valve used to divert oil from bucket cylinders to the lift circuit when curled back all the way and lowering it further as it has to dump slightly as it goes down at the bottom of the stroke

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1 hour ago, bitty said:

There is a relief valve used to divert oil from bucket cylinders to the lift circuit when curled back all the way and lowering it further as it has to dump slightly as it goes down at the bottom of the stroke

Oh, makes sense. To my way of thinking you should not have to mess with that unless you absolutely want to.

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35 minutes ago, Matt Kirsch said:

Oh, makes sense. To my way of thinking you should not have to mess with that unless you absolutely want to.

If you have the loader all the way down it only curls back so far because of a stop at the bottom of the loader arms . If you curl it back all the way 1/4 the way up it goes further. Then as you lower the loader it would hit the stop and as you go down it interferes with the stop more without the safety valve

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On 6/14/2022 at 2:34 PM, maxxum 140 said:

there are alot of those loaders in salvage yards around me in South Dakota

I'm also in South Dakota. I've checked woth a few yards and havnt been able to locate one yet. Also looking for a bale spear to fit. 

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did you try Meyer's in Aberdeen last time I was there they had a couple 510, 520, and L300's which all the self leveling pieces should be the same

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10 hours ago, Ericlj350 said:

I'm also in South Dakota. I've checked woth a few yards and havnt been able to locate one yet. Also looking for a bale spear to fit. 

Is the bucket quick attach or pin on? 

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  • 2 weeks later...
On 6/22/2022 at 2:03 AM, bitty said:

Is the bucket quick attach or pin on? 

 

5 hours ago, Ericlj350 said:

Quick attach 

 

Probably hard to find one but pretty easy to fabricate. Build squares tubing rectangle. Use angle iron to hang on the top tube with a cap on each end , then two flat plates with the holes that latch it on . Best to have a little clearance for the pins so it will be easier to take off 

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