Super M-TA. Is my TA bad?

[jdetig1]

So I bought a Super M-TA from my neighbor, his dad bought it brand new. Didn’t run, drug it home and got it running. He thought the TA was out of it. 
You can pull back on the TA and it works but sometimes if you start out with the ta engaged (back) it doesn’t want to grab and you can hear it sort of free wheel under your feet. 
But when the ta does lock in (back) you can kill it by jamming the breaks real hard and it doesn’t slip one bit. Driving forward or reverse doesn’t change. 
Is this just an adjustment issue or maybe they have gear oil in the rear end instead of hy-Tran? Or is the ta actually going out or bad?

[snoshoe]

The over running clutch is failing.

[Matt Kirsch]

I believe the specific issue is the ramp and rollers are worn. With the tractor moving the rollers can roll/move a bit and find a less-worn spot to engage on the ramp. From a standing start, the worn rollers slip past.

These TAs will run practically forever in direct even if the low side is out as long as the TA clutch is good and kept in adjustment.

[Farmall Doctor]

The rollers aren't locking up in the over-running clutch. They probably have flat spots on them, but it is also possible that they are gummed up and sticking. They are pushed into place by very small springs and pins. You have nothing to lose by completely draining it and flushing it out with good used (clean) Hy-tran.  My MTA slipped a couple of times backing into the shop after I resurrected it, but I did just that... drain the gear oil, flush with Hy-Tran and run it down the road for an hour or so, and re-fill (Hy-Tran). So far, so good. 

[jdetig1]

Thanks. That explains exactly what is happening. Since it’s been sitting for years hopefully it’s just gummed up. When I get a chance I’ll try and flush it and see what happens 

[rbeckman]

Dad put 85W-90 gear oil in our Super M-TA 45 years ago. It works fine except when it's cold then it will slip in TA. Then you have to drive it some before it works. 

[Farmall Doctor]

1 hour ago, rbeckman said:

Dad put 85W-90 gear oil in our Super M-TA 45 years ago. It works fine except when it's cold then it will slip in TA. Then you have to drive it some before it works. 

That's why IHC changed to a light weight oil with "Torque Amplifier additive" mid-production on the MTA.

[mmi]

IIRC isnt  there 2-3 drains for the ta proper? vs just the rear for the 15 gal fill......?

[Farmall Doctor]

34 minutes ago, mmi said:

IIRC isnt  there 2-3 drains for the ta proper? vs just the rear for the 15 gal fill......?

There are 3 drain plugs: the rear drain, the one at the bottom front of the transmission, and one under the PTO driven gear under the front of the TA housing. But they all run common oil and fill from the large transmission plug on top of the shift cover. It takes a while to fill the front, so when I was flushing mine I also filled directly into the TA level plug.

[Jacka]

9 hours ago, Farmall Doctor said:

The rollers aren't locking up in the over-running clutch. They probably have flat spots on them, but it is also possible that they are gummed up and sticking. They are pushed into place by very small springs and pins. You have nothing to lose by completely draining it and flushing it out with good used (clean) Hy-tran.  My MTA slipped a couple of times backing into the shop after I resurrected it, but I did just that... drain the gear oil, flush with Hy-Tran and run it down the road for an hour or so, and re-fill (Hy-Tran). So far, so good. 

I wish I would have known about being gummed up.I had a 560,for years and the entire time I owned it it would slip in the winter time.Spring,summer, plowing and chopping haylage it would never slip.It would work fine never could figure out why just that it did. I always changed filters but don't remember if I gave it a full hyd oil change.Just added oil when hoses blew and stuff.

[mmi]

8 hours ago, Farmall Doctor said:

There are 3 drain plugs: the rear drain, the one at the bottom front of the transmission, and one under the PTO driven gear under the front of the TA housing. But they all run common oil and fill from the large transmission plug on top of the shift cover. It takes a while to fill the front, so when I was flushing mine I also filled directly into the TA level plug.

Ie: ta section needs drain flush repeat,as many winters/spring this is where the temp inversion ice/water would collect

[1480x3]

Don't know if it is the right thing to do but i always just drained old oil [ don't know if oil is the correct word for what ever it was that came out ] , put plug back in, pull up to diesel fuel tank, fill till no more fits in, go for a couple mile drive while shifting TA several times.  Drain flush fluid [ diesel fuel + ] , refill with nice clean hy-tran, use flush fluid for next brush fire. TA has always worked fine but i guess they were not wore out, just gummed up.

[Farmall Doctor]

I also have a piece of flat iron with a 90* bend at the very end to use as a rake to pull the goo out of the rear end through the big drain plug...it's surprising how much sediment lays down there between the bull gears.  Also, it would be a good time to service the IPTO unit as well.

[DWV]

7 hours ago, 1480x3 said:

Don't know if it is the right thing to do but i always just drained old oil [ don't know if oil is the correct word for what ever it was that came out ] , put plug back in, pull up to diesel fuel tank, fill till no more fits in, go for a couple mile drive while shifting TA several times.  Drain flush fluid [ diesel fuel + ] , refill with nice clean hy-tran, use flush fluid for next brush fire. TA has always worked fine but i guess they were not wore out, just gummed up.

Way things are going the diesel may get to😃 be like buying HY Tran.  

[Matt Kirsch]

You could also remove the cover over the TA planetary section and spray pressurized diesel directly on the mechanism like out of one of those handheld pump sprayers.

[jdetig1]

How much does the rear end hold? Like 15 gallons? 
How much diesel would it take to fill it? Sounds like a lot lol. 
Thanks for the help, hopefully it’s just gummed up.

[Farmall Doctor]

3 hours ago, jdetig1 said:

Thanks for the help, hopefully it’s just gummed up

Well, it's not a guarantee, but the way I look at it, if it needs to be torn down you would want to thoroughly flush it anyways.  And yes, 15 gallons. If using diesel, I don't think it would have to be filled to the top, but maybe put 15 in it and see how it comes out, and maybe do it again. I flushed mine twice with used hydraulic oil. 

[jdetig1]

Well I think the diesel fuel worked. I drained the rear end and it actually had hy Tran in it and didn’t look terrible. I had 18 gallons of diesel I took out of an old transfer tank so I dumped that in and went for a drive. The ta never missed a beat. One time it didn’t quite grab right away in the low side but that was just for a split second. 
I drive around for a half hour and shifted the ta a lot. Seems like it really snaps your neck when you let the clutch out with the ta back but I guess that’s a good problem to have.

I bought the tractor from a neighbor who’s dad bought it brand new. It’s been right next to my home farm it’s whole life. It has original paint and darn straight hoods. I got it running like a Swiss watch, not a miss, flutter, or tick, I can’t believe how nice it runs. It’s still on 6 volt and I think I’m going to leave it that way.

I’ll post some pictures when I get the hoods back on.

[Farmall Doctor]

Good deal!