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Fuel truck axle cap


sandhiller
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Re the size of the hammer

Some friends were trying to get a brake drum off a Cat 12 with no success with the sledge they had (about 14 lb).  A case hardened diesel mech happened to come for a look, assessed the situation, and came back from his truck with another, saying

"Have a go with this  b a s t a r d" - which friend described as "the biggest bloody hammer he'd ever seen" so I'd guess a 28 lb one.

One hit and the drum popped off

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If you have a helper available and can weld decently you can weld a section of 2" round stock to another piece to be used as a handle. While holding the handle, place the section of 2" round against the axle and have the helper smack the round stock. No fingers, or parts are sacrificed this way and a lot of "force" is transferred directly into the axle flange. Two jack stands and a piece of round stock work well also if on a level plane.

I've routinely cussed silicone, Permatex, gasket maker, (whatever you care to call it) getting these out for years and it can be tough at times. Do use a moly paste or even chassis grease on the tapered cones when going back together and save the future headache when it needs to come apart again. In the days of inboard brake drums removal of these was routine. Nowadays, not so much so they stick much more often.

I have aattachment I'd purchased for the task when running my truck wrecker operation years ago that is OTC and attaches to the wheel studs. There are arms that hang down and attach to the "divots" in the hub between the axle shaft retention studs and these are tightened from a horizontal screw threaded apparatus pulling the jaws together. You start wrenching down on the forcing screw nut and that axle will pop free. I find it difficult to set up but it does work when most other possibilities are futile. 10 minutes setting this up on the side of the highway by yourself in the middle of the night gives your butt plenty of time to pucker up with today's inconsiderate driver's too.

Here is your earlier photo and I've circled in yellow the "divots" mentioned. The jaws of this puller setup clamp the back side of the axle flange in this and the opposing area and exert the pulling force through the wheel mounting, (lug) studs. Nothing is damaged in the end but it can take a lot of force to extract the axles. I think the puller jaws are rated at 10 tons.

image.jpeg.cf756edfc976a5a2c2840dc94c832334.jpeg

 

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I would try to double nut and back each stud out, one at a time.

Fight them one at a time rather than all together.

They just have to move a little to break the seal of the cone to the axle to the stud.

When you get the axle out, you will also see the threads for the studs do not come all the way out to the edge of the hub.

The threads are recessed into the hub about 1/4".

It is a weird setup.

If you try and drive it to loosen, you can break all the studs.

Don't be afraid of heat around a propane truck.

They smell of propane out of habit.

Just make sure you have no open leaks.

Blow a fan at the axle and fire up the torch to help you get each stud out, if the heat is needed.

Right now, the cones are holding the axle in.

You can try to hit the face of that axle with an air chisel with a big punch in it.

Sometimes a lot of little hits is better than a big one.

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When I was a Kid,we lived on a farm with a railroad that was about 100 yards from my front yard. More than once I watched the maintenance crew for the railroad line replace ties for the rails. One operator would hold the spike and another hammer man would swing the hammer, neatly driving in the spike.  I would never have held that spike, not then or now 70 years later!!!

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I forwarded all your ideas.

He finally got them all by running the lug nuts out to the end of the studs and using an air hammer.

I would have used heat but he got em, I don't have to go in so all is good.

My feeling is he will be needing some new lug nuts and probably studs but he can cross that bridge.

He chuckled and said once he got the cap off it looks nothing inside like the ewetube videos he watched😄

Want to thank all of of you that responded with helpful ideas.

Great bunch!!!

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On 5/31/2022 at 2:09 PM, Sledgehammer said:

Never known a man or woman of any size who could swing a 20lb sledge accurately with any amount of force to speak of. 

Idk about 20 pounds, but have you ever been told to hold the fence post straight while someone else swings a maul?🙏🙏🙏😂

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58 minutes ago, Ihfan4life said:

Idk about 20 pounds, but have you ever been told to hold the fence post straight while someone else swings a maul?🙏🙏🙏😂

Never drove them, always dug them. Around here the post would split under a maul before it drove. It did save the problem you were taking about I guess 🤷🏻‍♂️

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On 5/31/2022 at 2:09 PM, Sledgehammer said:

Never known a man or woman of any size who could swing a 20lb sledge accurately with any amount of force to speak of. 

You’ve never been to Tupper😉

ask @1586 Jeff, he had one once. 

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2 hours ago, Ihfan4life said:

Idk about 20 pounds, but have you ever been told to hold the fence post straight while someone else swings a maul?🙏🙏🙏😂

The 6 inch piece of an H,SH,300,350 axle bar, 2-1/2" diameter slides nicely inside a 3 ft length of 2-1/2" pipe, weld around the inside diameter of the pipe and you have an accident proof steel post driver. Not sure how many Dad had but I've got 2 and I haven't made any fence in years.

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9 hours ago, DR.EVIL said:

The 6 inch piece of an H,SH,300,350 axle bar, 2-1/2" diameter slides nicely inside a 3 ft length of 2-1/2" pipe, weld around the inside diameter of the pipe and you have an accident proof steel post driver. Not sure how many Dad had but I've got 2 and I haven't made any fence in years.

If you extend that 2-1/2" pipe to the length of steel post you want above ground you have a driver with enough weight to not need the hammer.

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