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Td6 skid shovel progress


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So cleaned carb. New points condenser cap rotor plugs and wires. It  started on gas.  Removed valve cover and 3 of the four valves that open to allow it to start on gas are stuck down. It's like there's no spring pushing them back up. The one on cylinder 1 moves freely with the lever that's moves with the handle.  Any trick to freeing then up without removing the head? Also the cover on the front of the hydraulic pump is cracked. Not sure if it hit something or water was in there and it froze. So that will have to be addressed nexf.

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I have freed up stuck valves in the past by removing the rocker/lever assembly and soaking the valve stems in penetrating oil then lightly tapping them with a hammer to free them up . Once they are loose the springs should pull them closed . As far as your pump goes it could have been hit or frozen or possibly the hydraulic system relief valve is stuck closed or there could be another type of restriction causing the system to over pressurize and crack the pump ( more common that you would think ) 

 

good luck ! 

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I know. All I can see if them with the cover removed is the round top of them. 3 are pushed down flush with the casting of the head...the one for cylinder 1 is about 1/4 in  above it. That moves up by I assume a spring under it. The other 3 are stuck down and I see no way to turn or grab them to try and free them. The machine was parked for at least 10 years with the lever pulled down for gas start

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from first info, carbon and rust,the whole mechanism needs removed then it is soaking 2-3x day/weeks.Std baby valve under there.

brass tools tapping and turning and special (low pressure) lever up thru plug hole.heat gun to...., < 250*

consult NLA Mb Cat.

lots of patience and waiting,as NLA valves for 50 yrs,then on to the std everyday issue of warped from rode hard.if it moves free but still is not closed.

on to creating other issues,remove inj,install plugs ,fill to top with acetone/atf etc let set 2 weeks, add kats block heater and cook 2-3 days,begin as above.

simply spend $500 remove head and go up $500 for each step from there.

O you just wanted to see if it runs first

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I'm going to the machine after work today.  Forgive my ignorance . This motor is very different than what I'm used to. 

The starting valves, all I can see is the round metal "cap" and 3 are pushed down flush with the top of the head. Are these just caps? They spun but will not pop up. If I remove the rack I'm assuming these caps will pull up and I will have access to the actually valve below them ?  It did run great on gas. Started instantly and there was no knocking or smoke.

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Ok. Took the rocker arm assembly off this morning. Removed the 4 caps and sprayed the valves heavily with wd40. Went back after work tapped each one with a brass rod and hammer. The 3 stuck ones popped right up. Poured some oil in there,reassembled and it started right up on gas. Waiting a few minutes and it switched right over to diesel.  Minimal grey smoke . Let it run for 5 minutes or so . No knocking  no pinging.  And it idled very well. So. Now onto the hydraulic pump cover. I have not removed it yet but does anyone know if the inside is recessed for the gears or is it flat.  Either way I'll take it to a machine shop and see if they can make a new cover.  Thanks for the tips

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1 hour ago, brian falcone said:

Ok. Took the rocker arm assembly off this morning. Removed the 4 caps and sprayed the valves heavily with wd40. Went back after work tapped each one with a brass rod and hammer. The 3 stuck ones popped right up. Poured some oil in there,reassembled and it started right up on gas. Waiting a few minutes and it switched right over to diesel.  Minimal grey smoke . Let it run for 5 minutes or so . No knocking  no pinging.  And it idled very well. So. Now onto the hydraulic pump cover. I have not removed it yet but does anyone know if the inside is recessed for the gears or is it flat.  Either way I'll take it to a machine shop and see if they can make a new cover.  Thanks for the tips

being in cali rust /carbon was the likely cause for sticking,and being a 6, may have not been abused too much.

if the uc is tolerable ,try it out for a while....some work to remove pump ...? oh DSS so not practical for short use without attachments...

Angry sailor could punch out a cover between burn outs.

fp smith may have or know of used.... browns etc...oldsters without internet...

did we miss the REQUIRED photos?

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3 hours ago, brian falcone said:

Ok. Took the rocker arm assembly off this morning. Removed the 4 caps and sprayed the valves heavily with wd40. Went back after work tapped each one with a brass rod and hammer. The 3 stuck ones popped right up. Poured some oil in there,reassembled and it started right up on gas. Waiting a few minutes and it switched right over to diesel.  Minimal grey smoke . Let it run for 5 minutes or so . No knocking  no pinging.  And it idled very well. So. Now onto the hydraulic pump cover. I have not removed it yet but does anyone know if the inside is recessed for the gears or is it flat.  Either way I'll take it to a machine shop and see if they can make a new cover.  Thanks for the tips

So the marriage is saved then?

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Nothing special about that pump just need one real close to the GPM so you don't have to sit and wait for the bucket to lift. Hopefully the plate has all the information you need. I am thinking your in the NE part of USA or maybe on the Canadian side of the boarder? Hector Gimmal that post here at times may have one in the Montreal area. 

 

Another option is replace with a BeGe brand pump as there is a company making parts and can build a whole high volume low pressure pump. But if your willing to deal with more PSI Surplus Center hopefully would have something cheaper that can be adapted.

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