IH 3800 Industrial backhoe

[snoshoe]

Without going through all this again. You mention a rear light switch. Is this mounted on rear light housing? If so that switch switches between red and white. If not I don't know what I'm talking about sorry.

[snoshoe]

Your colored wire diagram and paragraph out of book do not match. Diagram also shows one more terminal than you list in description. Can't read what it is.

[blacksmith]

9 hours ago, snoshoe said:

Your colored wire diagram and paragraph out of book do not match. Diagram also shows one more terminal than you list in description. Can't read what it is.

The extra terminal off the light switch is for auxiliary head light/auxillary lights.

After reading your comments it's prompted me to look into the wiring per the drawings and such and can now understand what they did.. 

The rear work lights (clear/white light) were controlled by the rear switch for the backhoe operations..  

The red lights were controlled by the console 3 position switch..   (when the rear lights come on there is no provision to shut the hazard light off.

Part of the problem is there seems to be a lack of understanding of the main switch..    Which is  Off, 1st is console and headlights.  2nd same deal..    3rd is rear lights.. Or all lights on as per mention for positions 1, 2 and 3. 

There is no power to the brown/white wire until position 3 on the switch.. 

Personally I'd rather have control of the rear work lights from the console vs red lights unless they are super bright. 

I drive at night and having really bright backup lights is awesome. 

 

[snoshoe]

Been going through this again. Think you have as good an understanding as I do now. The yellow hot all the time wire is feed for rear white light switch. The brown with white tracer should be on tl terminal. Should be hot on dim and bright position. Go dead on last position. The action you describe is consistent with R terminal for rear white lights. Think you have improper replacement switch. Would be interested to know what positions aux terminal is hot.

[snoshoe]

Thinking some more. Thinking brown-white wire probably on wrong terminal.

To explain further. I think brown-white wire is on auxiliary light terminal. They would come on in last position as reds and flasher go out.

Edited July 20, 2022 by snoshoe
Added info

[Rawleigh99]

Man, i need you to come and rewire some of my projects!!!

[CDN 400]

Here is mine ,not pretty but it digs and beats a shovel.

[blacksmith]

3 hours ago, CDN 400 said:

Here is mine ,not pretty but it digs and beats a shovel.

That is a mighty fine looking machine..  Love the blueish color..  Definetly better than a shovel..



Thanks for posting up some photos.. 

I am looking for a photo of the 4X4 disconnect lever and rod at the floor boards..   hint, hint..  

Makes me even more stoked to get mine going.. 

 

[blacksmith]

Well, I've been so much wanting to get more work done on the machine. 

I've had several auto breakdowns which have dragged me away from the machine. 

I have painted these inside of the engine cover white. 

The bushing arrived to make a copy of from Steve in PA. Thanks Steve.

I remade the 4x4 disconnect with igus bushing.

 

 

[Jacka]

Progress is Progress no matter how long it takes.I wanna see a video of this thing running and digging after all this work

[blacksmith]

6 hours ago, Jacka said:

Progress is Progress no matter how long it takes.I wanna see a video of this thing running and digging after all this work

I will post up some vid's for sure..  

Fingers crossed... 

[blacksmith]

I got back onto the machine today.  

I wanted to see why the shifting linkage was so sloppy..  I had originally assumed the slop was a combination of all the linkage as all the nylon bushings were missing. 

So I bought the Igus bushings and the correct drill size to open the holes to accept the bushings. 

I also bought heim joints and 1/2" bolts and nuts.  

I cleaned all the linkage and examined it for wear.  The bottom link from the main shift transfer bar to the transmission was egged out and believe this is where nearly all the slop came from  

On further investigation is looks like someone got in there and brazed some of the holes.. 

All the holes were drilled and Igus bushing put in. 

I made the rod for the heim joints and threaded a right and left hand thread and matched it to the original linkage. 

I also put UHM tape on the bushings for the shifter and for the transfer bar pivot. 

[Rawleigh99]

Nice!

[blacksmith]

Today I got it all buttoned up..  Well as much as I can tell without driving it. 

The bottom linkage that went to the transmission shifter shaft once all the new linkages were made was to long.. 

My best guess is with all the slop they added about 2" of length to the shaft coming off the shifter.  So Hight gear was not even possible.  this is in the first photo.. They used a nut to weld either side of it. 

Now everything aligns.. I might take the shifter shaft out and shorten it some to get back to the length of the original U shaped piece. 

I put all the floor back in so is buttoned up.   

Next will be a few hydraulic leaks and brakes.. 

[Jacka]

Amazes me that basically once you grind ,weld ,manufacture a part, it all goes back together,seems like factory and there is no insurmountable, unaccountable part that is no longer manufactured and you can't find anywhere in the world that stops you and its nothing but a paper weight.My luck would be just that. I always,always stay away from buying any IH construction equipment because of that fear. Please keep going and once you get it running dig something and post a video. 

[blacksmith]

@Jacka Thanks for the kind words..  being a blacksmith with fabrication skills makes nearly any metal part that is fabricated or forged possible.

On this machine there is very little IH only for the most part.. Allison transmission,  Rockwell axles.  IH engine stuff is still around.  the frame and such is all welded construction.. 

I do understand though completely..  I have a tendency to like obscure equipment and have a budget (cheap) so end up doing these kinds of things because it's what I can afford..   I'd love to have easy parts access.. 

Today was the first day I actually used it..   The brakes do work they just need adjustment I believe.   

 

[blacksmith]

So it's been a little bit more or less because I've been super busy, broke my arm and dislocated my elbow. 

Few weeks back I went to use the machine to lift a body of a pickup truck and it wouldn't even touch it. 

i then checked the hydraulic fluid and it was full of water..  When I say full of water the bottom the tank had about 1" in it but the fluid was that wonderful milky color. 

So I pull the unit into the heated shop to drain the fluid and while I was in there I decided to pull the injectors and see about cleaning them out/up. 

I have an ultrasonic cleaner so figured I can try it before sending them out to a professional. 

Here are some photos.. the last 2, cylinders 5 and 6 are super stuck so will take the time to make sure they come out. 

Which way are the precombustion cups supposed to be facing? 

Also there is one missing and it looks like there is a whole in the bottom of the injector hole like a cast iron cup. 

I took a photo but it did not come out. 

[blacksmith]

What are they made out of? 

[snoshoe]

The precup pictured is 90 degrees clockwise from correct. If you get them out the word up is stamped in the side. Always figured they were some kind of steel. There is a puller that forces three points into the inside to pull. Leaves a raised edge dimple like a prick punch.

[blacksmith]

Thanks, So the angled bottom lip should point downwards? 

 

I'm dyslexic so direction left, right or degrees of rotation can be tough.

Bevel pointed up or pointed  down registers better. 

From what you said,  the bevel should point down?? 

 

[snoshoe]

47 minutes ago, blacksmith said:

Thanks, So the angled bottom lip should point downwards? 

 

I'm dyslexic so direction left, right or degrees of rotation can be tough.

Bevel pointed up or pointed  down registers better. 

From what you said,  the bevel should point down?? 

 

Well yes and no. It should point to the cylinder. So given the choices the answer would be up but due to the angles involved. It is actually still down only more across the cylinder. I stated it correctly before it has been rotated clockwise. You need to rotate counter clockwise 1/4 turn to correct. I realize it's a digital world but you must have seen an analog clock somewhere. ⏰

[IHRedRyan]

Just came across this thread, what a cool machine.

I scanned this in :

 

[blacksmith]

HIRedRyan thank you so much for posting up that information flyer..   

Way, way cool.     Thank you..    


So I cleaned all the fuel injectors  right or wrong by taking a small set screw and sliding that down the injector throat and then screwing in the top retainer just enough to see the pintel of the injector open..   Then sticking these into the ultrasonic cleaner and running them thru a bunch of cleaning cycles. 

I was able to buy a brand new Precombustion cup to replace the missing one from FB smith for a reasonable price and also bought new shims from Steiner..   Steiner had them for like 1/2 the cost of any place else. 

Someone before me snapped part of a line inside the injector and left it in there.  I was able to drill it out carefully after trying heat and vibration with no success.. 

I moved all of the existing pre combustion cups into 2-6 cylinders..   1 has the easist access..   

Of note..  Do not tighten the retainer bolts fully without the combustion cups in the bore..  The bolts will go thru into the water jacket.    Yup. one of the bolts poked thru into the water jacket so now have a potential leak point.  The bolt and threads are fine but might have to seal the bolt now. 

Last night I was able to get the new precombustion cup with required spacers in and got all the lines hooked back up. 

The correct installation in the D282 for the combustion cups is with the hole on the bottom.   or in the 180d or 6 Oclock position.  

Still waiting on the new Hydraulic filter  from Killer filter..   I could not find a cross over available from any source..   Doesn't mean there aren't any Just means I could not find one..