IH 3800 Industrial backhoe

[yellowrosefarm]

I'm pretty sure this is the same light on my CASE 350 crawler loader. Not that it would be any easier to get.

 

 

[blacksmith]

11 hours ago, yellowrosefarm said:

I'm pretty sure this is the same light on my CASE 350 crawler loader. Not that it would be any easier to get.

 

Yes indeed.. That is the one..   I don't want to make the whole thing though it appears I may have to.. 

On a different note.. 

Since I was waiting for some more wiring parts to arrive I decided to test the lighting and brake wiring for the machine.. AKA the rear harness.. 

Well come to find out, it's been completely hacked into..  The main connector/s were missing but there was also a lot of funk under the drivers seat where the fuel sender, the parking brake switch and the extreme back wiring for the rear lights were cut and maimed.  

So now will be making a new rear harness as well..  This will be much easier..  it's like 8wires..  The right side front headlight did work when powered up so that is good.   I ran out of time with testing the rest of them. 

There is a huge hose or cable holder inside the left rear light housing.. Can't see any reason for it to be in there. 

The rear flasher light on this side was completely toast..  OOPs now that I mentioned the large clamp.. I realize its to hold the flasher unit.  

There was not much left to the rear lighting original harness.. Pulled it out with nothing stopping it. 

On a different note.. Was in Johnstown PA last Oct for a blacksmithing conference and I demonstrated forging this Swedish brush axe..  I got it mostly done while there in 3hrs but few days back did a demonstration at the Orange Engine show, in Orange, MA  I finished the forging there.. 
 

[Jeff-C-IL]

Unless you are really trying to keep it original, just replace any lights/flashers with LED versions.   Not worth the hastle of fixing the old bulb sockets up.

[blacksmith]

1 hour ago, Jeff-C-IL said:

Unless you are really trying to keep it original, just replace any lights/flashers with LED versions.   Not worth the hastle of fixing the old bulb sockets up.

Luckily the wires at the bulbs are just spade connectors. 

 

Love to find some high/low beam LED that fits the original spots.

Even though now you have me thinking. Wouldn't take anything to make new inserts to fit whatever I might find. 

 

I bought an led hazard light. 

 

 

[iowaboy1965]

53 minutes ago, blacksmith said:

Luckily the wires at the bulbs are just spade connectors. 

 

Love to find some high/low beam LED that fits the original spots.

Even though now you have me thinking. Wouldn't take anything to make new inserts to fit whatever I might find. 

 

I bought an led hazard light. 

 

 

Try superbrightleds.com I think is the name of the sight. Another member here suggested them a couple times. Par 36 looks to fit (I think) everything from cub cadets to farm applications. The round style bulb from the 60s and 70s. If that's not it they look to have a lot of other options.

[blacksmith]

On 6/29/2022 at 12:50 PM, iowaboy1965 said:

Try superbrightleds.com I think is the name of the sight. Another member here suggested them a couple times. Par 36 looks to fit (I think) everything from cub cadets to farm applications. The round style bulb from the 60s and 70s. If that's not it they look to have a lot of other options.

Thanks.. That helped a bunch.. 

I'm not really familiar with LED headlights coming from older tech and then HID lights.  I know a 35W HID is nice and bright. 

What should I look for in an LED bulb?  I like bright and not flood but narrower..  

 

[blacksmith]

I was able to get the wiring done for the console.  

I'm used to having the key switch control all electrics on the console.  The console lights come on when the light switch is turned to 1st, 2nd and 3rd light switch position even with key off.. 

When the light switch is turned off the lights are off. 

The water temp nut snapped off when I tried to remove it.. Not really rusted.. Just stuck and very thin walled. 

I have a new temp gauge and wanted to install the bulb but it would not fit in the existing fitting.  Hence snapped. 

 

[Jacka]

15 hours ago, blacksmith said:

I was able to get the wiring done for the console.  

I'm used to having the key switch control all electrics on the console.  The console lights come on when the light switch is turned to 1st, 2nd and 3rd light switch position even with key off.. 

When the light switch is turned off the lights are off. 

The water temp nut snapped off when I tried to remove it.. Not really rusted.. Just stuck and very thin walled. 

I have a new temp gauge and wanted to install the bulb but it would not fit in the existing fitting.  Hence snapped. 

 

Looks awesome 

[blacksmith]

@Jacka thanks..  coming along.. Can't wait to move onto other aspects..   

[iowaboy1965]

On 7/2/2022 at 7:46 PM, blacksmith said:

Thanks.. That helped a bunch.. 

I'm not really familiar with LED headlights coming from older tech and then HID lights.  I know a 35W HID is nice and bright. 

What should I look for in an LED bulb?  I like bright and not flood but narrower..  

 

@Mr. Plowmight be able to suggest something. About all i know i already shared. Lol

[blacksmith]

1 hour ago, iowaboy1965 said:

@Mr. Plowmight be able to suggest something. About all i know i already shared. Lol

Thank you..  Your info really helped  PAR36 covered a ton of bulbs..  Just gotta find bright..  

I oversized the wires for the lights to and from the switch so that should help with getting good electrical flow. 

Today I was able to get the rear harness for the , Ebrake dash light switch, fuel sending unit and lights done. 

Partially installed too. 

Not much left of the orginal.

[blacksmith]

So, I am a happy camper..  head lights are working.  

Harness went in perfectly.  

I still need to do the very back harness.. I split it up so there is an engine harness, Console harness, (Headlight, fuel, ebrake harhenss) and then rear light harness..  The rear still needs to be done.. 

I ordered a new wire crimper..  Going high tech.. 

I've never seen dual purpose lights..  The rear are dual with clear white and red.. 

This should be interesting.. 

Someone on the FB IH industrial page posted replacements for a John Deere so those should work.. 

Also found some in LED but the LED have white and then separate for the red LEDs. 

The cubbies for the lights were cleaned out, urethane primered and then shot with Tuscan Yellow.. 

I also ordered 2 gallons of the IH Yellow..  I might reshoot it at some point. 

Looking good, me thinks.. 
 

[blacksmith]

On the Facebook industrial group I mentioned getting new glow plugs since the ones I had were poop.. 

Someone mentioned getting 7.3L ford ones and just rethreading them 3/8X24tpi..  

I ordered a set of 8 ford ZD-11's and rethreaded 6 of them.. 15min later they were installed..  

WOW, WOW, WOW!!!!!! is all I can say..  10 seconds on the button and the engine fired up just as the started kicked over.. I almost wasn't sure what took place..  

Not sure of longevity on the new ones but super easy to replace and they are full juice at 12Volts vs the stock ones which are not supposed to go over 11volts..  

I ended up doing a bunch of reading and overvoltage seems to kill the stock ones much sooner.  The Ford ones are designed for the truck so a true 12V or little more is on tap. 

6 threaded and side by side of rethreaded vs factory ford

[Jacka]

Awesome, 

[blacksmith]

Ok, milestone reached..    All 5 lights are working.. 

the rear harness needed a bunch of tweaking.  I had to add in extra wires.. Not my cleanest wiring install but it will work.. 

If it bothers me enough after a month or so I'll more than likely redo it to fit all the wires in a loom.. 

The wiring schematic shows only 2 wires going to all 3 rear lights.     from the rear left there are 3 wires..   Yellow, only going to the light on that side.. then a brown with white and a white wire..   

No ground wire and no wire from the rear switch to the hazard light..   So...    

The yellow wire going to the back is hot all the time carrying 12V..  So guess that wire needs to be switched.. Or that is what I came to conclusion on. 

On another note I organized all the hydraulic lines that run along side the transmission to the back..  They were all crossed and rubbing together both on the shifter rod and the 4x4 disconnect rod..  

Since I had to get in there for the Converter pressure gauge and the trans temp gauge.. Figured it was good as time as could be to knock it off the list.. 

While I was there I also reinstalled the engine oil pressure line with proper vibration loop.. Cleaned and straightened the line and routed it safely. 

The rear light holders were corroded so cleaned them up and went with TL3005 LED lights..   They are a combo light as well with nice and bright white LED and a Red led as well.. Only the white is hooked up.. 

I am planning on installing a light and accessory 12V supply switch panel so those will be controlled via that..  Also more lights. 

Waiting on the red hooded light..   

[blacksmith]

I ended up color coding all the wiring information to keep it as organized when looking at it. 

 

[Jeff-C-IL]

Without digging thru your info on this - on most of the older IH tractors the 3 wires going to the back were:

• Rear work lights 
• Flasher/Hazards (the flasher was in the rear harness)
• Tail (red)

All three came from the lights switch

Ground was always just thru the frame, no separate wire.

You are doing a fantastic job on this....fun to read the thread!

[blacksmith]

1 hour ago, Jeff-C-IL said:

Without digging thru your info on this - on most of the older IH tractors the 3 wires going to the back were:

• Rear work lights 
• Flasher/Hazards (the flasher was in the rear harness)
• Tail (red)

All three came from the lights switch

Ground was always just thru the frame, no separate wire.

You are doing a fantastic job on this....fun to read the thread!

Thanks..  

Right.. the 3 wires..  LOL.. Well there are only 2 from the console.. 

the Yellow is hot all the time..  The brown with white stripe is switched power at the light switch and is position 3.. 

The single white wire according to the schematics is from - side (ground) ( Left hand of tractor)  to the other side (right side of tractor) and bulb.  

(which not a single gauge is labeled  + or - so having to guess there as well).. 

The Brown/white wire which is position 3 (12V) of switch only comes on in the this position and runs power both to the rear lights and the hazard light switch..     

This tells me there is a hot yellow wire constantly feeding power to the one side of the bulb.. 

Again, this does not make sense to me at all..   Feeding power to the bulbs constantly would mean having a switch on a ground wire that then ran power to ground for it to come on.

Can you make out better as to the diagram?    

I changed it so the Hazard switch (aka Blinka) is on the yellow hot wire.. Has 12V all the time..  So the rear switch turns on and off the hazard.. 

As it is now the light switch in position 3 will turn on the rear White lights.. 

I think I'm missing something..    Again I'm not sure about how IH did wiring..    

I came from a Swedish car company background and follow their logic better.(European cars make sense vs american cars not making sense design wise).. Mind you I like the really old stuff 30's and 40's.. Those still made sense.     Key turns on and off power to all points.   Key turns on and off power to the light switch..    

Hot wire goes to switch,  turn switch on and it sends power to the item then to ground..  LOL..  

I've had to push my understanding of what is being done here..    I like to stick with what was orginal and add in other items wired separately with there own schematics in case there is a problem in the future. 

 

[blacksmith]

I had seen the grounding is thru the frame and bolts.. No extra wires..     LOL.. Learned a long time ago having a solid ground can eliminate most wiring problems so will add grounding wires.. 

[Jeff-C-IL]

The schematic is fairly clear - where I think the confusion is - is that the yellow wire probably hooks to the white wire inside the one light.    Grounds are not shown.   

The little "boxes" shown upper middle I think are fuses.

The Brown/white wire is from the main rotary light switch and is the tail light (red).   The flasher is connected to this circuit as well, so the tail light & flasher are both on at once (makes sense on the road)

The yellow wire comes off of a "12V Battery" connection (in this case the charge indicator gauge), and goes thru a separate light switch (lower middle) to the one bulb - then I'd bet the white wire is hooked to it and over to the other bulb, as the rear work lights.   This may be originally wired like this because they used 6V work lights in series - like the 6V batteries???

[blacksmith]

Fairly clear on the wiring.. Yes, yes..

Yes on the fuse..   the Yellow wire has a fuse.. 

The brown and white does not.. 

So how does one turn only the white lights on, or the red internal lights on?  I understand having the flasher but it's on it's own brown and white wire.  So as soon as the rear lights come on, they are white/clear and the flasher comes on too???? 

[blacksmith]

38 minutes ago, Jeff-C-IL said:

The schematic is fairly clear - where I think the confusion is - is that the yellow wire probably hooks to the white wire inside the one light.    Grounds are not shown.   

the yellow wire ran to the light and the secondary Red bulb.. Then there were yellow grounding leads to screws on the adjustment rings for the lights.  No chassis grounds..  Just to the light housing screws.. 

1 yellow lead each side..  There was only 1 red light bulb left but it just piggy backs onto the lighting reflector terminal screw.   It was not connected as the wire was missing. 

[snoshoe]

41 minutes ago, blacksmith said:

Fairly clear on the wiring.. Yes, yes..

Yes on the fuse..   the Yellow wire has a fuse.. 

The brown and white does not.. 

So how does one turn only the white lights on, or the red internal lights on?  I understand having the flasher but it's on it's own brown and white wire.  So as soon as the rear lights come on, they are white/clear and the flasher comes on too???? 

Think you have it backwards. Red and flashers lit on first two positions (dim and bright headlights). Third position. Work lights no red or flashers. Switch should have R and Tl terminals. R is rear light (white) Tl is tail light (red and flasher). The terminal on the reflector that the small bulb mounts to is the ground terminal.

[blacksmith]

17 minutes ago, snoshoe said:

Think you have it backwards. Red and flashers lit on first two positions (dim and bright headlights). Third position. Work lights no red or flashers. Switch should have R and Tl terminals. R is rear light (white) Tl is tail light (red and flasher). The terminal on the reflector that the small bulb mounts to is the ground terminal.

Thank you. After looking at your response and the Operators manual I think you are absolutely right..

I bought a switch from one of the aftermarket tractor suppliers..   it seems like something is amiss.. 

The switch is labeled   Bat, clust, TL, HL      There is a resistor wire between the HL and TL..  

I'm extremely dyslexic and the way the letters were aligned it could have gone either way.. 

I spent maybe 2hrs trying to figure the switch out..    The wires are connected as shown in the wiring schematics for the light switch..  I tested the switch with the multimeter.. 
 

 I get it now, but don't really understand why someone would want the hazard light on when the lights are on..  vs the option to turn it on or off for a given light switch position.    So this is what I thought the rear switch was for is to control the hazard light. 

The Par36 lights come in a Low/high beam configuration?   I looked but could not find one. 

Because this has the canopy on it there is no place for the 2nd light bulb. 

On the switch..  The HL light is non resistor? And this is for Headlight high beam vs the TL?   There was no provision in the switch for a low/high beam.  

Was a second head light an option for this machine.  Just noticed the cover of the Operators manual only has 1 pair of headlights.  The headlights had a grounding wire with 2 terminals for 2 lights per light bucket. 


 

[snoshoe]

Headlights are single filament. Resistor dims.

According to your manual. No rear white light. Hence no R terminal