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OVERHAULING A 756?


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so was at local machinery place yesterday. we were rained out again, ran into a IH guy i knew for awhile, he suggested this, he put a 312 in his 656 which had the head cracker 282 in, got it from a hydro 70. we talked some more and he claims the 312 is narrower than the 360 and if out of a 70 it would bolt in better, has the same frame rail as our 756, well its another idea, wish it would dry up a bit, anyway he said all are going to be hard to find,

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3 hours ago, pt756 said:

so was at local machinery place yesterday. we were rained out again, ran into a IH guy i knew for awhile, he suggested this, he put a 312 in his 656 which had the head cracker 282 in, got it from a hydro 70. we talked some more and he claims the 312 is narrower than the 360 and if out of a 70 it would bolt in better, has the same frame rail as our 756, well its another idea, wish it would dry up a bit, anyway he said all are going to be hard to find,

312 and 360 blocks are the same, but no 360 went in a small frame tractor from factory. The front cover off a 312 will fit on a 360 (on up through a 466) with no problems. The 360's wider cover can be cut or machined down to fit the narrow frame rails fairly easily. I did the one of mine with a portable bandsaw. 

A 312 out of a 70 (small frame) will have the wrong back plate to fit a 756 (wider bellhousing) but a 360 out of a 766 etc will have the wide front cover that needs cut and have the back plate with the right mounting holes. The back plate should be trimmed as well to fit the profile of the TA housing but have seen guys leave them too. Or you can buy an adapter plate that is made for that swap.

312 front covers are hard to find.

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On 5/22/2022 at 9:02 AM, Matt Kirsch said:

What manifold does he think will work to put the turbo on a tractor without having it stick out the side?

I thought there was a post on here awhile back about using the exhaust manifold from a 5.9 Cummins out of a Dodge pickup that would bolt up to a 312/360. 

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On 5/28/2022 at 12:19 PM, pt756 said:

so was at local machinery place yesterday. we were rained out again, ran into a IH guy i knew for awhile, he suggested this, he put a 312 in his 656 which had the head cracker 282 in, got it from a hydro 70. we talked some more and he claims the 312 is narrower than the 360 and if out of a 70 it would bolt in better, has the same frame rail as our 756, well its another idea, wish it would dry up a bit, anyway he said all are going to be hard to find,

Good used 312's in the wild usually come with a winning lottery ticket, or at the very least the strong suggestion to run out and buy a lottery ticket, because you stand just about the same chance of winning as you do finding that engine. ;) 

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I'll say my .02.  That d310 is a neat little motor that is well capable of running 10k hrs plus. You'll spend just as much swapping it out and alot more aggravation. A 312 is a good motor. 360 is a screamer but i hated mine because it was too loud. I would of had 4 mufflers on it if I could have. That 310 engine you have isn't that expensive to overhaul. I did mine few couple years ago myself. I didn't have to touch the cam bearings, or crank so I got off cheap. Completely redone the head, and an OH kit I think I was into it for around 2k. I had a liner o ring leak.  Actually I threw a cluth in it maybe even for that money too. 

Where I went wrong was I spent that much again on a turbo to hang on it. Only wrong was money, it woke that old kraut right up and made it a fun ride 

20211204_121245.jpg

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Hello again was planning on an update anyway, so thanks, so the crankshaft has been checked out no cracks and it only needs to be reground 10 thousandths , as i said i am no motor person but i routinely here of cranks being reground that amount, also the guy mentioned he is going to get the rods checked to make sure they are round, said they can become egg shaped, and one more question would it be necessary to have the block line bored> the tractor during winter would leak a small amount of water into the oil, i assume the o rings were nearing the end of their useful life, and lastly i was looking  for the number on the block to try and identify if it is a 310 or 358, the side where the oil filter is on is the side that is showing, there is a number there , thanks

 

 

 

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10 hours ago, pt756 said:

Hello again was planning on an update anyway, so thanks, so the crankshaft has been checked out no cracks and it only needs to be reground 10 thousandths , as i said i am no motor person but i routinely here of cranks being reground that amount, also the guy mentioned he is going to get the rods checked to make sure they are round, said they can become egg shaped, and one more question would it be necessary to have the block line bored> the tractor during winter would leak a small amount of water into the oil, i assume the o rings were nearing the end of their useful life, and lastly i was looking  for the number on the block to try and identify if it is a 310 or 358, the side where the oil filter is on is the side that is showing, there is a number there , thanks

 

 

 

0.010 on a crank grind is very minimal. That is not a problem.

You now need 0.010 mains and rods if both were ground the same amount.

The crank should be stamped R 0.010 and M 0.010 if that is what it was ground.

Reconditioning the rods is standard practice and is a good idea.

The machinist should check the block and tell you if it is in need of line boring.

Most do not.

The 0 ring is probably the cause of the water leak.

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