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Farmall 140 radiator


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Yes that's just for overflow.If it's burping out check your radiator cap for a tight seal,good gasket not bent.Also don't put a too high pressure cap on it,old radiators will spring leaks.8lb is all I would do no more than 10.Flush the fins first good on the radiator, then check belt to make sure is tight,not wore down in pulleys.Then thermostat. I would try flushing system then if that doesn't work.If it still won't cool,pull the radiator and have it flushed, pressure checked for leaks at a radiator shop.

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1 hour ago, Jacka said:

Yes that's just for overflow.If it's burping out check your radiator cap for a tight seal,good gasket not bent.Also don't put a too high pressure cap on it,old radiators will spring leaks.8lb is all I would do no more than 10.Flush the fins first good on the radiator, then check belt to make sure is tight,not wore down in pulleys.Then thermostat. I would try flushing system then if that doesn't work.If it still won't cool,pull the radiator and have it flushed, pressure checked for leaks at a radiator shop.

Took it out making a couple rows for planting sugarsnaps. its working good, Caps tight fans working, sometimesit spit out a little coolant from the open overflow tube. My concern was the cracked open overflow tube. Would the radiator still flow coolant good in the engine after long hours even if the tube is cracked open??

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56 minutes ago, Solocam8925 said:

Took it out making a couple rows for planting sugarsnaps. its working good, Caps tight fans working, sometimesit spit out a little coolant from the open overflow tube. My concern was the cracked open overflow tube. Would the radiator still flow coolant good in the engine after long hours even if the tube is cracked open??

Just makes a mess is all

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Tubes only purpose on any system before an overflow tank is to direct fluid away from things . As noted it will probably make a mess and could be a burn hazzard if hot coolant sprays on someone

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Take a look at the cap. That spring and rubber washer sit BELOW the overflow tube, sealing it off from the radiator.

The only time water gets near that overflow tube is when the pressure gets high enough to push past the seal. They make different pressure ratings on the caps for that. IIRC a 140 should have a 7psi cap max.

Don't get into the vicious cycle of making yourself insane refilling the radiator over and over and over because water keeps coming out and it's not "full" when you check it. The water needs room to expand. As long as the tractor is not overheating once it has stopped pushing out water it has found its own correct level. That usually means some air space at the top of the radiator.

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14 hours ago, Solocam8925 said:

Took it out making a couple rows for planting sugarsnaps. its working good, Caps tight fans working, sometimesit spit out a little coolant from the open overflow tube. My concern was the cracked open overflow tube. Would the radiator still flow coolant good in the engine after long hours even if the tube is cracked open??

Yes,that is only for when pressure builds up and cap releases it and it is supposed to flow down the side so no one gets burnt from hit coolant 

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20 hours ago, Solocam8925 said:

The 140 radiator is on my super A because we ordered another radiator for the super A and it won't fit... If it's not a concern with you guys. I'll take it that coolants flowing in the engine...

Was it a quality issue causing your fitment issues?  Was the radiator totally different than the one out of your Super A?  I ask because towards the end of Super A production,  they made a Super A1.  It had several differences. More like a 140.

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On 5/18/2022 at 12:59 PM, nepoweshiekfarmalls said:

Was it a quality issue causing your fitment issues?  Was the radiator totally different than the one out of your Super A?  I ask because towards the end of Super A production,  they made a Super A1.  It had several differences. More like a 140.

This one I can't find the serial number. Not sure how many styles of radiators for the early and late super As.

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4 minutes ago, Solocam8925 said:

This one I can't find the serial number. Not sure how many styles of radiators for the early and late super As.

Did you look under the seat on the left seat support? Engine if it has C123 on it indicates that it's more likely a super A 

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12 hours ago, bitty said:

Did you look under the seat on the left seat support? Engine if it has C123 on it indicates that it's more likely a super A 

It's a super A. It's our very first owned tractor since we started farming 32 years ago. The 100s and 140s have a lifted fuel tank, hood and grill.

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1 hour ago, Solocam8925 said:

It's a super A. It's our very first owned tractor since we started farming 32 years ago. The 100s and 140s have a lifted fuel tank, hood and grill.

A super C has a lifted fuel tank, hood and taller grill . Maybe that holds true for the super A also ? 

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On 5/21/2022 at 8:48 AM, bitty said:

A super C has a lifted fuel tank, hood and taller grill . Maybe that holds true for the super A also ? 

The Super A still used the C113. The Super A-1 used the C123. To tell if its an A-1 the serial number tag prefix is FAA-1.

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On 5/21/2022 at 8:48 AM, bitty said:

A super C has a lifted fuel tank, hood and taller grill . Maybe that holds true for the super A also ? 

Prior to S/N 356001, the Super A did not have a lifted tank or hood. 356001 marked the beginning of the Super A-1 (Aay-won, not aay-eye), which came with the taller radiator.

They were kind of a pre-production 100, like the Super MTA was kind of a pre-production 400.

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