460 utility generator to alternator

[jong1821]

Not sure how to delete my other post.

I think I have most of this figured out. I have changed the regulated 12 volt generator with a self regulated alternator.

I'm wondering what to do with the fused green wire that goes from the regulator (L) to the light switch (BAT). I'm guessing (+) on the starter or(ACC) on the key switch.

The light gray wire that goes from the regulator (BAT) to the amp gauge (-). I'm guessing ground or one of the non + posts on the starter.

The orange from the push button to the starter solenoid (R).

Not really sure what the push button is for. I'm guessingit was to start it with the original kill switch.

I have mapped all the existing wires in the picture that is attached. Feel free to ask any questions.

[snoshoe]

Lots of mistakes here. Will try to help later if other help not forth coming. Not time now.

[snoshoe]

Before we start drawing a diagram for this. Let's consider some issues first.

Alternator;

That 4gauge wire makes the ammeter into just a junction block. Do you want a charge indicator? What make and model alternator is it? I believe you have sensing wire on wrong terminal. If that alternator is big enough to require that 4 gauge. It will take more than one half inch belt to turn it.

Key switch;

To use key switch start. Switch must be rated 50 amp or more. Or a start relay used. Flashback from solenoid coil will soon burn switch contacts otherwise. Alternative is to use keyswitch for ignition and push button for start. 

[snoshoe]

I went in and edited and still didn't ask what amp is that alt.

[jong1821]

21 minutes ago, snoshoe said:

I went in and edited and still didn't ask what amp is that alt.

The jumper was on the wrong post. Changed it. #1 post will get a led indicator. It's an AC Delco gold 334-2114 3 wire. I'm going a little thick and all copper with new wires. Will get key switch info in a bit.

[jong1821]

It's a clark p/n 2394129. Google says it's for a forklift. 

[jong1821]

Missed one of the questions. I want the gauge to show that it's charging. I used the 4g wire on the alternator because I had extra when I ran a new line from the battery to the starter. Can change it if it's too big. 

[snoshoe]

Alternator appears to be 63 amps. To much to run through that ammeter. Wire must go to ammeter to show charge.

[snoshoe]

37 minutes ago, jong1821 said:

It's a clark p/n 2394129. Google says it's for a forklift. 

Can't find specs for that switch.

[jong1821]

19 minutes ago, snoshoe said:

Alternator appears to be 63 amps. To much to run through that ammeter. Wire must go to ammeter to show charge.

I have a new set of back lit 12 volt aftermarket gauges. 

[jong1821]

I couldn't find specs for the switch either. I can pick up another or get a kill switch for the push button.

[snoshoe]

30 minutes ago, jong1821 said:

I couldn't find specs for the switch either. I can pick up another or get a kill switch for the push button.

You still need accessory to excite alternator.  What amp is your ammeter? Meant to say present switch is fine if using push button or relay

[snoshoe]

That switch is heavier than a lot of switches. I just don't know if it's heavy enough. You can always wire it direct and if it gives problems. Add relay or utilize pushbutton then and still use same switch.

I routinely converted these using original wiring and gauge. I never used more than a 42 amp alt. Someone is bound to step in and say they put in a hundred and five ampere. No problem. The thing is it only charges full amps for seconds only. Unless there is a large load on system. Still I would want 60 amp meter and 8 gauge wire for this unit.

[jong1821]

Found a matching 60 amp meter. Will hit up tractor supply this week to see what they have for ignition switches. Will pick up some 8 gauge. 

After the gauge do I run it to the battery or can I run it to the positive on the starter?

Where do I move the other two wires from the voltage regulator?

[snoshoe]

Starter pos to ammeter pos. Ammeter neg to alt pos. Alt no 1 to key switch accessory. Alt no2 to alt pos (bat)

No LED needed.

[snoshoe]

On 5/15/2022 at 9:32 AM, jong1821 said:

Not sure how to delete my other post.

I think I have most of this figured out. I have changed the regulated 12 volt generator with a self regulated alternator.

I'm wondering what to do with the fused green wire that goes from the regulator (L) to the light switch (BAT). I'm guessing (+) on the starter or(ACC) on the key switch.

The light gray wire that goes from the regulator (BAT) to the amp gauge (-). I'm guessing ground or one of the non + posts on the starter.

The orange from the push button to the starter solenoid (R).

Not really sure what the push button is for. I'm guessingit was to start it with the original kill switch.

I have mapped all the existing wires in the picture that is attached. Feel free to ask any questions.

On key switch acc will be connected to alt no 1 terminal and as power to fuel gauge. Ign will be connected to resistor not coil. Bat to ammeter -. Otherwise as shown.

Starter- R terminal will connect to coil + either at coil or coil side of resistor. No wire from push button. S term to key switch S. Battery terminal to ammeter plus. No key feed.

Coil. Red from key switch to go where black from push button is shown. Remove push button wire. Wire from R terminal of starter to either end of black wire between coil + and resistor

Fuel gauge.  Use wire from key switch acc where it says black from push button. Remove push button wire.

Ammeter.  Plus terminal will have power feed from battery terminal of starter. - terminal will have bat wire from alt . Bat wire to key switch. Power feed to light switch. (Green wire with fuse)

Push button and regulator not used so no wires.

I passed over the light switch. Frankly other than the green feed. I can't remember the colors. Somebody will correct if I'm wrong but TL is tail light or red light and RL is rear light or white light.