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5088 gremlins


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Bought this tractor over the winter as a little project been working on it off and on whenever I got a minute and so on but here’s where we start upon going and looking at the tractor it had to be jumped off and cranked so nothing acted right with the trans sentry system so rolled the dice and brought her home. Upon checking and cleaning all connections one battery was near new and the other was like 6-7 yeas old gone bad killing the other. Fixed all that changed cable ends and all fired it up drove it around everything was fine for about 10 minutes and sentry light came on lost odd gears.  Brought it back to the shop switched relays and lost evens that time so went to case bought two new relays popped them in everything was good as new shifted like a dream though we was good to go but couple days later sentry light comes on lost one set of gears can’t exactly remember but kinda puzzled I switched one of the new relays with what I knew was the good old one and off she went done some other work and all drove it a good bit and parked it for a couple months. So yesterday it fired up shifted from odd to even once cut it off to do something and tried to move and it’s a no go in odd shifted to even and it pulled no sentry light has came on or nothing shift it to lo range on the go it stays in high no light ever comes on or nothing sometimes it will decide to take off in lo but when you shift the lever to high there’s no change. amp gauge always has been a little moody but now it’s went completely lazy reads like 10 volts when running but the tractor is charging the normal 14 volts. Sentry unit has fire to it I’m just lost and it’s got me thinking is losing connection somewhere as it shifted completely fine whenever I parked it. I know it’s a lot but it’s the whole story up to now  

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Is the sentry unit still powered off left battery? If it is, move power supply to hot side of cab solenoid. Check bulk connector plug behind engine oil filters for voltage problem. Cab ground on right cab mount also. Connection where positive battery cable comes through lower firewall.

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If you’re shifting between high/low ranges with no change, that’s a trans problem.

the other thing sounds like a connection problem.  Make sure you’re battery ground cables are clean and tight. Take them off, clean the mounting locations and install new cables if needed.

      My 5288 was acting like yours this last winter when I was hauling corn. As soon as I got on the highway and turned the flashers on the sentry would act up and the voltage gauge would drop. I ended up with 2 new batteries, new ground cables and new positive cable ends. Hasn’t missed a beat since.

    Like said above, if the sentry is still powered from the left battery, change it to be powered from the switched side of the cab solenoid. (Powered on with key) Also, the sentry originally shared a ground with a relay on the right side of the fuse box area.  Change this so the sentry has its own dedicated ground to the sheet metal in the pedestal area.  Finally, make sure there’s a wire grounding the cab to the chassis, if installed already it’ll be on the right side by the front cab mount area.

 

 

 

    

 

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7 hours ago, Mike56073 said:

If you’re shifting between high/low ranges with no change, that’s a trans problem.

It’s hi/low electrical clutch pack issues I’ll try everything said about sentry power and grounds at least it’ll give me a starting point thanks. 

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Slow to respond. Trying to remember what I've forgotten. Losing a range with a light on is likely a pressure problem or a pressure switch problem.

Moving the lever with no change is likely to be the switch on the lever.

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If you don't find anything obvious and you want to take the time to do it, you can manually engage the ho and low clutches one at a time. Just need power and ground source. Remove both sentry pressure safety switches and install gauge in each port so you can monitor clutch pressures.

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1 hour ago, TB5288 said:

emove both sentry pressure safety switches and install gauge in each port so you can monitor clutch pressures

Not necessary. Test port for each clutch right there.

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1 hour ago, snoshoe said:

Not necessary. Test port for each clutch right there.

Just trying to make it easier to locate for someone that may not know the system is all.

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If you make sure the wiring updates as described above have been done and then install the new style pressure switches under the cab floor board, sentry problems are all but a thing of the past, in my experience.

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Yes thanks. Only differs from Ih instructions in where they hook the wire. I would point out that when you go digging in that harness for the red wire with black tracer. There are three of them in there. You want the larger one. You have to look close to see the difference.

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On 5/7/2022 at 2:35 PM, TB5288 said:

If you don't find anything obvious and you want to take the time to do it, you can manually engage the ho and low clutches one at a time. Just need power and ground source. Remove both sentry pressure safety switches and install gauge in each port so you can monitor clutch pressures.

There are test ports for the gauges, no need to remove  the pressure switches.

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