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4366 & 4386 cab interior & sound insulation (45,47 etc) to quietin it down


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I've been spending time in my 4366 and it's loud inside, evem with my cheap earmuffs!

Of course it's a beast with almost no upholstery - sound insulation left. When I get the ac working I want it quieted down.

I want to add more sound insulation than the 4366 came with. The 4386 had more than the 4366. Especially around the dash and the ceiling. I am also considering  options like dynamat and others.

Can someone post some good pics of the ceiling and dash insulation?

Other suggestions?

Thx-Ace 

 

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The last cab I redid, I got a bunch of stuff from McMaster Carr.  Got to their website and do a search for "Sound Control Insulation".  They have all kinds of choices and thicknesses.  I ended up with 1" and 2" thick stuff with an adhesive backing, it worked really well. I put it inside the console, the doors, and under the dash.  It's  not cheap though.

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I installed a Fehr cab kit on the 4386.  Helped significantly.   I would think if you wanted to go the second mile and add dynamat under the floormat, that would be a big improvement.   I know mine it was the tranny gear squeal....open the rear cab window and about blow your eardrums.   I ended up with a pair of good earmuffs hung on the Hi/Lo lever, very rarely ran without them on.   Now I use them on the X-Mark.

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15 minutes ago, ihrondiesel said:

J-Mech had a pretty thorough post in the Projects board a couple years back about redoing a 4586.

 

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Thanks for the input, y'all.

I've reread his thread. However the cabs and sound insulation are different between the 4366/4568 and the 4386/4586/4786. The 86s have alot more sound insulation and I want to incorporate some of these improvements on my 4366.

The 4366 does not have insulation wrapped around the dash like the 86s. I think this will be straightforward.

The 4366 also has no sound insulation around the ac/heater housing. This will be more difficult because they are slightly different. Some good pics and descriptions of the sound insulation on the 86s would help me determine how to do it.

Thx-Ace 

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Here is about the only picture I took of the cab interior showing the blower on my early 4386.    I don't think your 4366 above is much different.   

A pice that covered the main blower area.   Another with stitched edges that covered the drop lid.   You had to cut out for the radio, etc.  which I did a really bad job of.   IIRC, the actual roof had several sublayers, and then one that covered the top frame and the sublayers.

There were also small pieces that covered the fuse panel under the dash, the firewall, etc, even weird little pieces to cover the sides of the "steering motor box" under the dash.

If you have any specific questions about any area, please ask, it may jog my memory

 

Photo May 06, 9 24 44 AM.jpg

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I put a cab kit in my 4386 several years ago. Will try to remember to get some pictures. If I do it again I would Dynamat the floor and rear wall at least. 

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Thanks y'all.

The pics and descriptions help. I wonder if the blower cover is the same size on the 66 and 86 cabs???

I think the deep insulation covering the bar will help. Below is a pic of a stiegler cab  @IHC_1470 posted. It shows the layered insulation.

I think dynamat would help under the cab and in on the engine side of the firewall.

Thx-Ace 

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I bought an interior kit from Fehr for my 766.  Great to people to deal with.  Here couple links to the kits they sell for older IH 4WD tractors.  I know these kits cost a lot of money,  but they will sell individual pieces also so dont have to buy all of it.  

https://www.fehrcab.com/ih-4386-4786-cab-kit/

https://www.fehrcab.com/ih-4386-4786-cab-kit/

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The dynamat does help some. Every little bit counts. I redid a 5000 swather cab and it helped some but still a very loud cab. Still wear noise canceling headphones. The Steiger is pleasant to run. With it I do not notice as much roof vibration now with the dynamat on it. When I first got that tractor there was little material left on the roof so replacing with new material probably was a large help too. Seal as many holes as you can as that is also a source for noise to get into the cab.

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Could you post some pics of the installation in your stiegler? 

I realize they are different but they are similar and may give me inspiration.

On the dynamat website they have some other materials made to go under the hood that would be better on the firewall and under the cab.

Thx-Ace 

 

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While I did not use the dynamat named product this was similar and I think two different brands. The cab was totally stripped and was a bare box when I went back together. The cab floor I used spray on bed liner after chipping out most of the rust with a needler. 

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If no one is making that pad I think you could roll the edge on some foam and it would look nice. If you have never rolled the edge it is pretty easy to do. What you would do it cut the foam back about one inch from the vinyl edge. Spray the adhesive on the foam and pull the vinyl over and hold for a bit. Makes a nice finished edge doing that. If the sheet metal wrap would come off that dash I would put dynmate on the bottom side. I did that on the heater panels on the Steiger. Out of sight and it sure can not hurt anything.

Couple of pictures showing a rolled edge.

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Great pics!

Thanks alot.

I got to spend some more quality time in her again today . My last day to roll, it's drying up. Maybe it'll dry up enough to plant before the weekend!

Thx-Ace 

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Finally got some pics for you. Did this one probably 10 years ago. The back panel needs to be reglued as it is starting to come off. First one I ever did so not perfect. 

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Thanks alot for the pics. I'm getting a pretty good idea of what it looks like.

Is that an auxiliary heater/AC in back?

Thx-Ace  

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Red dot AC unit

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21 hours ago, acem said:

So you have 2 working AC units?

No factory is disconnected. Red Dot works. It is how I bought it. 

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Buy yourself a spray glue gun, similar to a paint gun but with a lot bigger tip. (Abt $35)

Then use headliner adhesive.

That is made to take the heat a headliner has to endure without letting go.

Far better than contact cement.

Dynamat and a good kit should give a guy a pretty comfy cab.

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