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Can I make my own stabilizer bar for 464's 3-point hitch?


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Anybody made their own stabilizer bar for a 464? 

I am tired of my rotary cutter swinging so much from side to side.  One bar should do it.  I have a cutting torch and drill press, but what thickness of flat steel do I need ?  and does anybody have the center to center distance for the holes on each end?

Or does this part NEED to be adjustable?

 

stabilizer bar drawing.jpg

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Maybe I should hook up the 5 ft mower deck and then get it positioned where I want it (a bit to one side, perhaps, to get the cutting swath outside one of the rear wheels an inch or two) then measure the distance I need between the holes in the bar.  (??)

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There you go....my dad always set the 3pt off to one side when cutting for the same reason.   I would think 1/4" x 2" would be fine.   You might want to to make the bar a T by welding a 1/4 x 1/2" (or so) along the side in the middle (prevent bending).    Make sure that the front of the bar is on the same pin as the front of the 3pt arm as shown above, so it does not bind as you raise & lower the 3pt.

If you wanted to make the bar somewhat adjustable, you could use 2 "halves" that lay over each other, with 2-3 bolts thru slotted holes.   Would not need to weld the T in for strength then.

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You have a different check chain arrangement than the 54/64/74 tractors that were delivered to Canada. The ones my brother has have adjustable check chains with a turnbuckle on them and the of end is connected to a cast piece with 3 holes in it that bolts to the bottom of the axle where the fender bolts are. By selecting the proper hole and adjusting turnbuckle to 3 pt sway can easily be adjusted.

Yes, you can fabricated your own but like previous post says the connection points to tractor must be in same relative location as 3 pt pins on tractor frame to keep them from binding through the full up and down cycle of 3pt. Many years ago when I was growing up on the family farm one of our tractors was a Ford 8N and you always had to use sway bars on the 3 pt on it.

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A piece of thick wall tubing or pipe with a nut welded on one end and some large diameter all thread or bolt would give you an adjustable sway bar too. Also some aftermarket 3 points have one or both ends slotted a bit for a lil give thru the up and down range of motion as well as give a bit of slack to take on and off.  The above ideas would work well to I would think.

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My 574 has the same set up and the IH bars aren't very strong. I made a set similar to jeffs recommended design and it works perfect. Good luck

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on my 454 i made them from 1/4 inch by 2 inch angle iron drilled 2 7/8 inch, i think, holes easy peasy.

pete

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forgot to tell you that was after i broke the factory ones.

pete

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Photo of 3pt check chains on a Canadian an IN/CIH 54/74/84/95/32XX series tractors.
My brother has 5 of these tractors and they all have the same 3pt check chains with the 3 holes in the piece under the axle and the turnbuckle.
The only problem with the turnbuckle is that if they are not kept lube or turned frequently they will rust and then it is large wrench time.
In this photo we were replacing the outer left axle bearing on his CIH 495 as baler twine got wrapped around the outer axle and destroyed the outer axle seal and let water in that destroyed the axle bearing.


image.thumb.png.d4f9bbd997fa54719a8e5523759b0f1a.png  

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On 5/3/2022 at 12:11 PM, Cdon_FL said:

Anybody made their own stabilizer bar for a 464? 

I am tired of my rotary cutter swinging so much from side to side.  One bar should do it.  I have a cutting torch and drill press, but what thickness of flat steel do I need ?  and does anybody have the center to center distance for the holes on each end?

Or does this part NEED to be adjustable?

 

stabilizer bar drawing.jpg

Do you have the factory mounting brackets under the axle? If so, you can buy adjustable bars from  Tractor Supply or similar stores. 

If you don't have the stabilizer brackets, you will have to fabricate or buy them. As stated earlier, it is imperative that the pin lines up exactly with the lower link pin to prevent binding when two stabilizers are used. 

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