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Farmall 544 3 point will not go down


markb210

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I have a Farmall 544 that the 3 point hitch would go down very slow. Now the 3 point hitch will not go down at all. It stays at the highest level all the time. Just wondering if any one has had this problem and if so any suggestions would be appreciated. 

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Thanks for yalls suggestions I have been away all week and finally got back to the tractor. I have pulled off the three point link connection cover so I can see inside where the draft linkage is located. I am not sure if I am using the correct terminology but I am assuming the draft linkage is what moves when you move the draft control lever on the the side of the seat and the load sensing arm is what is attached to the torsion bar. If this is true the draft linkage is on the front side and the load sensing arm is on the rear side. They are not completly touching they are about a 1/4 inch from each other but seem to centered with each other. This is with the draft control lever on heavy. As for the drop pilot screw where is that located. Again thanks for the help.

 

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30 minutes ago, markb210 said:

I checked the adjustment screw and it was @ 3/8". As I was checking on the adjustment screw I noticed that the piston is 1/4" out of the cylinder and has some rust on the piston. Could this possible be the problem? 

Obviously I didn't explain very well. Before you can measure. The hitch must drop. With draft lever down. Pull position lever up to within couple inches of top. Move position lever forward until hitch starts to drop. That lever movement should be 3/8-7/16" .

Assuming the spool does not move when moving lever. Does the clevis move when you move the lever?

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I see the piston in contact with trigger. Not deformed that I can see. I see clevis with lever between legs. I can not see pin in end nor link on side. Does clevis move when moving lever? Is system on pressure.

 Support three point arms. Remove pin from clevis. Three bolts from cylinder and two from valve. Then you can lift cylinder and valve assembly out for a better look.

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I will check the clevis in the morning and see if it moves when I move the lever. I was able to move the clevis manually with a screwdriver. How do I determine if the system is on pressure. Am I able to remove the cylinder and valve assembly without having to take off the hydraulic lift housing?

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4 minutes ago, markb210 said:

I will check the clevis in the morning and see if it moves when I move the lever. I was able to move the clevis manually with a screwdriver. How do I determine if the system is on pressure. Am I able to remove the cylinder and valve assembly without having to take off the hydraulic lift housing?

You should be able to hear it squeal. Dead heading a remote would make no difference. 

The cylinder is holding the arms up. So support the arms to take pressure off then do as I said and valve and cylinder will come right out the top. If the system is not on pressure. I would take an Allen wrench between the legs of that clevis and screw that screw in the end of the spool in half a turn and see what happens first.

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I was able to get back to working on this problem this weekend. I removed the cylinder and cleaned the rust from the piston and inside the cylinder. I also turned the screw in half a turn on the clevis. Got it all back together. I kept the cover off so I could see the what happens when I started the tractor. Hydraulic oil filled the reservoir and the three point arms starting lifting with the handle in the down position. I turned the tractor off before it rose all the way to the top. While the tractor was running I did notice that the hydraulic fluid had a large air bubbles coming up. Any new suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks.

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I do not hear squealing so I am assuming the system is not on pressure. As for the lever moving the spool I will have to double check when I get back up there this weekend. After I think about it I don't know how far it moves it. I know it was very difficult to pull it out when I was reconnecting the cylinder yesterday. Sorry for the long spans in between responses The tractor is 60 miles away from my house.

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I don't know where to start. So here goes. Both levers must move spool (check ksfarmdudes post). Was hitch up or down when you checked linkage in rear? I've been assuming hitch is empty. Correct? Does hitch drop when engine stops?

When that top linkage goes past the bottom lever. The spring pulls the upper lever forward. Hitch goes up and won't lower. That's your problem but linkage is in opposite position. Hitch down and draft lever stripped may account for that. I don't know.

I've already made at least one mistake. When I told you if the hitch was on pressure. Deadheading an auxiliary would make no difference. That is untrue. Hitch has its own relief and only hitch pump is under pressure. Deadheading would also load the other pump as well.

After checking that the linkage operates. Lay the cover over front half of opening. Start and let hitch raise. If hitch is on pressure there will be an immediate eruption under cover when hitch reaches top.

I may have also been wrong about location of tall hex plug. I would appreciate correction if true.

I'm getting this out of order. With hitch up and both levers down. Is the linkage in the rear touching yet. If not find and fix linkage problem.

If we're certain linkage is OK. On to hydraulics. Pull valve and cylinder. The rod that the clevis is screwed on is basically a hollow bolt. It passes through the valve spool. Pulling out on the clevis pulls the spool to raise. Right behind the clevis is a snap ring and spring. They return the spool. If the ring pops out or the spool sticks tighter than the spring can push. That doesn't happen but the rod will still move. You need to make sure that spool is moving. Inside that rod is a needle that sticks out the back and pokes the drop pilot off it's seat. I don't have a problem with that at this time.

On that valve assembly should be two plugs held in with snap rings. Behind one is the unloader piston. Behind the other is the drop poppet. They both have an oring and an orifice. Make sure they're both clean and free. New orings and open orifices.

Somewhere between top and bottom of this we fixed it. Still thinking linkage.

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Sorry for the delay. And again thanks for all your help. I have answered your questions below.

Both levers must move spool (check ksfarmdudes post). Was hitch up or down when you checked linkage in rear? I've been assuming hitch is empty. Correct? Does hitch drop when engine stops?

Hitch was up, and when the hitch is up, only the draft lever moved the spool. I manually drained the cylinder by removing the relief valve and when I did that both levers moved the spool when it was lowered. No the hitch does not drop when the engine is off.

When that top linkage goes past the bottom lever. The spring pulls the upper lever forward. Hitch goes up and won't lower. That's your problem but linkage is in opposite position. Hitch down and draft lever stripped may account for that. I don't know.

The top cover was removed to replace transmission gears before this happened. When it was replaced do you think it is possible that the draft linkage and load sensing lever are reversed during put back? I am just thinking of possibly solutions. I can not find a picture anywhere.

After checking that the linkage operates. Lay the cover over front half of opening. Start and let hitch raise. If hitch is on pressure there will be an immediate eruption under cover when hitch reaches top.

When I started the tractor and the hitch went up and reached the top there was no eruption under the cover.

I may have also been wrong about location of tall hex plug. I would appreciate correction if true.

Location of the hex plug is on the front left.

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OK. We now know unloading valve is working. We also know control valve is returning to neutral. The levers in the bottom are on the right side of each other. So cover removal should not be the problem unless linkage was disassembled or damaged while off. At this point I still think something is out of time in the linkage.

When did slow drop start in relation to cover removal? When did no drop start in relation to cover removal?

Other than linkage the only thing I can think of is that the needle that unseats drop pilot is bent or broke.

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That arm sits on a flat on the torsion bar. If it was drawn down flat on that flat it is correct. Was torsion bar removed or bell cranks from end?

With both levers down. Will pulling back on the upper link drop hitch? And if it does. Does the position of the two links change in relation to each other as hitch drops?

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