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Sway blocks on 86 & 88 series


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I have a CIH Cat II/III quick hitch I'm not using.  Dad had it on the 1066, its got the bigger III pins but is the narrower II width, IIRC.    

A neighbor is looking for a quick hitch for his 1486 or his 5488, but said something about not being able to pull the arms together far enough because of the sway blocks.

I think I remember that there is ways to adjust the blocks,  is my memory wrong, or does he just need to remove some shims or turn the blocks around or....????

Love to let somebody use the hitch instead of sitting in my shed.   He bought a 2pt front fold planter.

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23 minutes ago, snoshoe said:

Not sure but on the 2/3 hitches.  Aren't there blocks bolted to arms for three and removed for two?

That would sound about right... my 1486 is III with the blocks on the arms as well.

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1 hour ago, Sparky said:

Looks to me like there's plenty of room to move around.

 

Travis

 

No description available.No description available.

This is missing the sway block that bolts to the lower arm. Bolts where I marked in yellow. Thought there was a wedge shape and a flat . Remove the flat for a narrower hitch 

Screenshot_20220405-171349~2.png

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8 minutes ago, bitty said:

This is missing the sway block that bolts to the lower arm. Bolts where I marked in yellow. Thought there was a wedge shape and a flat . Remove the flat for a narrower hitch 

Screenshot_20220405-171349~2.png

In my opinion this is the only hitch to have. The flopsy wopsy ones that preceded this suck 

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23 minutes ago, bitty said:

In my opinion this is the only hitch to have. The flopsy wopsy ones that preceded this suck 

Ummm....opposite of my experience.   Never had any trouble with the 06-66 series with the pivoting center, but always had to keep a bungy cord on the 1486 to keep the arms from hitting the tires.  Then there was the time I was transporting a anhydrous bar on the road, swerved to miss a careless truck, and it swung clear over, a coulter bolt ripped a groove around the Left tire, rebounded, and ripped a groove around the right tire..... tires were less than 1yo.    The 66 style center "equalizer" prevented that kinda back and forth.

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5 minutes ago, Jeff-C-IL said:

Yeah, now I'm remembering those blocks on the arms on the 1486.   Are they the same on the 5488?   

Similar looking. I think they are both the same on a 5x88 and 71x0 

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Your missing the rub blocks that bolts onto the three point arms

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10 minutes ago, ksfarmdude said:

Your missing the rub blocks that bolts onto the three point arms

It's not missing squat if you want to go narrow....

Travis

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True , but they are gone non the less usually they are moved to the outside of the arm if your wanting to hitch  onto something narrower

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57 minutes ago, bitty said:

In my opinion this is the only hitch to have. The flopsy wopsy ones that preceded this suck 

My !086 has that heavy three point set-up too its bull strong , beats the crap out of the floppy double jointed early style  its also better than the Deere's hitches 

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52 minutes ago, Jeff-C-IL said:

Ummm....opposite of my experience.   Never had any trouble with the 06-66 series with the pivoting center, but always had to keep a bungy cord on the 1486 to keep the arms from hitting the tires.  Then there was the time I was transporting a anhydrous bar on the road, swerved to miss a careless truck, and it swung clear over, a coulter bolt ripped a groove around the Left tire, rebounded, and ripped a groove around the right tire..... tires were less than 1yo.    The 66 style center "equalizer" prevented that kinda back and forth.

My experience as well, but I've learned to keep a bungee or a solid bar in the arms. If the sprayer and NH3 bar weren't 3 point I'd have removed all our 3 point arms by now.

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50 minutes ago, ksfarmdude said:

 

Three of our Deere's use quick hitches keeps the three point arms in place

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2 hours ago, Jeff-C-IL said:

Ummm....opposite of my experience.   Never had any trouble with the 06-66 series with the pivoting center, but always had to keep a bungy cord on the 1486 to keep the arms from hitting the tires.  Then there was the time I was transporting a anhydrous bar on the road, swerved to miss a careless truck, and it swung clear over, a coulter bolt ripped a groove around the Left tire, rebounded, and ripped a groove around the right tire..... tires were less than 1yo.    The 66 style center "equalizer" prevented that kinda back and forth.

What category is that anhydrous bar? You should have enough sway block to set it correct for minimal sway unless it is a goofy setup for width on the anhydrous bar . With the inside sway limiters set on the further back hole it allows sway while it's lowered in the ground but not in transport. Same basic sway system used on every North American maxxum and Magnum ever built with a three point

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The sway blocks work great when adjusted properly and a quick hitch is installed. They hold up well

The cam type work good but when they wear out they fall apart. 

Thx-Ace 

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MY 5288 on narrow spacing. Shims on the outside of the arm. 

KIMG1733.thumb.JPG.c156f2c63b5e4228bd5d6ece80d9f73a.JPG

My 5488 has a Cat III wide quick hitch on it. The shims are on the inside of the arm. 

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12 hours ago, bitty said:

What category is that anhydrous bar? You should have enough sway block to set it correct for minimal sway unless it is a goofy setup for width on the anhydrous bar . With the inside sway limiters set on the further back hole it allows sway while it's lowered in the ground but not in transport. Same basic sway system used on every North American maxxum and Magnum ever built with a three point

It was the COOP's, anything was possible.  I will admit it was a hard movement, a truck came flying over the crest of a steep little hill and I had to move over FAST.   They had these long adjustment bolts sticking out of the coulters at just the wrong place with the bar all the way raised.   Tore every lug nearly around the tire.

Every year you had to wait days to get a bar, then drive in and get it with a tractor (hence the "little accident" on the way home), then spend a day fixing it.... and even then it was all NH3 clouds out of the slots (hard ground and poorly set cover disks).   This occurrence finally made me move to 28% sidedress, on the cultivator.   With 28%, even if you have a leak, it ends up on the ground by the plants.....  

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1 hour ago, Jeff-C-IL said:

It was the COOP's, anything was possible.  I will admit it was a hard movement, a truck came flying over the crest of a steep little hill and I had to move over FAST.   They had these long adjustment bolts sticking out of the coulters at just the wrong place with the bar all the way raised.   Tore every lug nearly around the tire.

Every year you had to wait days to get a bar, then drive in and get it with a tractor (hence the "little accident" on the way home), then spend a day fixing it.... and even then it was all NH3 clouds out of the slots (hard ground and poorly set cover disks).   This occurrence finally made me move to 28% sidedress, on the cultivator.   With 28%, even if you have a leak, it ends up on the ground by the plants.....  

Those are also my memories of the CO-OPs NH3 bars here. Bearings out, rusted solid break away hose coupler, broken frames. Let’s not even talk about the valves on the tanks or the running gears. 

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2 hours ago, Jeff-C-IL said:

It was the COOP's, anything was possible.  I will admit it was a hard movement, a truck came flying over the crest of a steep little hill and I had to move over FAST.   They had these long adjustment bolts sticking out of the coulters at just the wrong place with the bar all the way raised.   Tore every lug nearly around the tire.

Every year you had to wait days to get a bar, then drive in and get it with a tractor (hence the "little accident" on the way home), then spend a day fixing it.... and even then it was all NH3 clouds out of the slots (hard ground and poorly set cover disks).   This occurrence finally made me move to 28% sidedress, on the cultivator.   With 28%, even if you have a leak, it ends up on the ground by the plants.....  

We have side dressed nitrogen (first dose with the planter and the remainder with a toolbar) for over 15 years. Much more effective in my opinion.

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