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29 minutes ago, mike newman said:

OK    Troll...now you have that problem tricked.....calm us all down by posting a few Mack pictures.....:)

Mike

GOOD EYE Mike!!!

 

 I will echo what Mike said, give us some pictures of your B Model!

 I have always liked B Model Macks.  I just do not fit in them.

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See what I can do.....

How bout two of them in pieces/parts?

 

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Black and white B-61T is a 1957 and has been mine since April, 1979. It was my "Welding Wagon" for a lot of years. Like my old Barracuda, it ain't going noplace. I chopped the frame behind the cab and had new frame rails bent extending the truck out a bit for a longer bed which I've yet to make. It is now on Peterbilt "Air Leaf" rear suspension with a 3.70 ratio Rockwell rear. Up front under the hood is a 1982 E6-350 Mack engine and still has a double over triplex Mack transmission. On tall rubber it will bust through 100mph if wanted to.....  The black thing on the floor in front of the truck is the charge air cooler, (intercooler) as there is no room behind the grille for a coil so I "chin mounted" mine and need to fabricate a bumper for the front enclosing everything. A little at a time as they say.....

 

The truck on the left is a 1962 B-673ST. It is factory turbocharged and still has the original type engine installed although not original. It has a Mack duplex 10 speed "Overgear" transmission and runs very well, but quite slow topping out at 57MPH. It belonged to JM Steel Supplies out of Chicago, IL and ran steel between Chicago, and St. Louis all it's working career. This truck was given to me when it was replaced by the former owner, (farmer) when he purchased a later model R with much more power. This truck has the concave back panel to clear the square nose type trailers yet remain in the length laws at the time.

I told the salesman when purchasing that Dodge new in March, 1996 the old Mack would replace this truck one day; so far that plan is still on cue.

Still planning to return my 1980 R model back to service in the next couple of months. Now that I've ceased hauling farm implements and kinda doing my own thing again, it's time to get that bulldog back out. I just ran it around this morning and she's wailing to go. 

Not my trailer but I still have the yellow mutt also used only for a yard dog. 

 

 image.jpeg.4f95c1f35542371c5641896eb485eb45.jpeg

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Not mine but a buddy purchased this 1989 RW713 Mack after chasing it nine years. We did a "marathon" driving session to retrieve both it, and a container load of included parts which was basically another whole truck in pieces last week. These were brought back back to my place with the truck remaining here. He will be back the middle of June with his traveling axle trailer to pick it up, and take back to Texas for refurbishment and put it to work. 

 

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One his trip back up here, we are going to the ATHS national truck show in Springfield, IL this year and I'll take my old A-40 to display:

 

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Then we'll use his trailer and bring my dozer home:

 

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1 hour ago, 1586 Jeff said:

That is an absolutely GORGEOUS SuperLiner!!!!!!

Are you certain that it is a 1978?  The air tanks and hood suggest that it is a decade newer.  Is the steering box mounted to the frame rail, or the front axle?

I was tired when posting and deciding whether to post my 1978 RL755 or not. It is a 1989 Superliner. E7-400 w/55K on an inframe, Spicer 5&4 transmissions on Neway air ride which is completely rebushed recently. 3.87 Mack rears with all ten tires being on aluminum rims and new.  

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On 3/24/2022 at 12:33 PM, Art From Coleman said:

Wonder how long an unloading auger from a deceased combine would last, since you would not be moving sand for hours on end.

Shorten it, build a support and a hopper, and then figure out a way to drive it at a slow speed.

Not a bad idea, but he has THIS auger on hand and it won't require nearly as much fabrication or modification.

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The chair lift is the "nuts" for loading up. I'm currently blasting a sign for a subdivision entrance and I just leave the pot in the back of the pickup with the media right next to the pot on a small pallet. They fit nicely there; almost like made for each other. Anyway easy to dump the media into the pot as it's basically just a heave it up and set it on the top, slit the bag, and fill. I modified a shop cart that has pneumatic tires on the rear and plastic casters on the front and loaded 800# onto it easily rolling it onto the ramp and into the truck bed. I promptly destroyed one of the plastic casters when attempting to "jockey" the cart into place in the right front corner of the bed as the casters wouldn't take the ribbing of the bed and pulled the center out. I'll replace these with either cast iron, or much stronger poly variants later and should be good.

Job is not done yet but I'm working on it:

Sign to blast clean:

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Erection of portable "Blast Shack" to contain the dust:

 

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The ground being unlevel and on a hillside makes for some interesting footing at times.

I made these anchors from 5/8" rebar as I couldn't find any I liked better. They stick into the ground about a foot and there are a dozen of them:

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Plenty of room to work:

 

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Sure is a "rag tag" operation, but it will get the job done:

 

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Sign is pretty crusty and I spent quite a bit of time both stripping off the original powder coating and then rooting out the rust between the weldments. There is deep pitting but the face is 3/16" sheet so will be alright when painted as it is nowhere near perforated.

So far the lift gate has performed admirably and I have no complaints other than it's a squeeze to get into the truck bed around the side of the lift frame. 

 

 

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Lost a wheel bearing on the way back to the shop destroying the axle beam. Had to leave the compressor set in a farmer's driveway for a spell.  Running back to the shop I welded up this skid shoe to allow winching onto a trailer and it worked well. You can't see the front but it is rounded over: image.thumb.jpeg.110c8f43b1db0da36e335c1aab08494b.jpeg

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Once back at the shop and knowing I needed to drag this thing across my concrete floor, I modified the skid shoe so it wouldn't dig:

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I then dragged it about 60 feet into the shop with my skid steer:

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I used my shop gantry to lift it up clear of the floor and set it on blocking on the trailer deck, then bindered it down tight. I don't have a photo of doing this but here is a shot when I was running new lines under the compressor a few months ago:

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This is after set on the trailer and bindered down:

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Off to the races again this morning to blast the sign clean. This is where the cast iron letters are bolted through the sign face. Each blast spot was corroded so addressed them first:

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After the spot blasting I stripped it complete:

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After wrapping up for the day and getting everything packaged up for transport, I had this happen to a trailer tire:

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Old tires and it just didn't have another trip in it..... 

I have a spare for that trailer in the shop someplace..... 

 

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5 hours ago, just Dave said:

Tough breaks but you keep getting back up anyway. You can probably find a stub axle to weld back on that compressor.

Thanks but really not an option to replace the stub on this one. I don't know why but the axle beam is solid 2.500" square bar with the spindles machined from that; all one piece. Really heavy to drag out of the compressor unit too by myself. I took it in to the machine shop I've used in the past and they were going to cut it off inboard of the leaf spring to chuck it and indicate on the inner bearing, or wheel seal surface as they appear unharmed. However when we were looking it over, I noticed both spindle ends were ground on an angle to the beam. Thinking it over on how the beam mounted in the leaf springs, I ascertained these are ground like this to yield a positive camber to the wheel ends when installed. To the naked eye, (mine) it appears to be between a two, and three degree angle from the horizontal plane but that's just a guess.

I have ordered an axle kit including 2.00" square axle stubs, eight bolt hubs, "Timken" bearings, and seals from an online supplier. From the steel supplier a 7ft stick of C1045 2.50" square with .250" wall tube. I'll cut a slight groove. or "relief", into the axle stub for the internal tube weld seam to clear and then weld them up solid. I kinda like the look of the old rims so going to knock larger wheel studs into the new hubs and use one ton dually wheels, (I have) giving the required negative offset as the originals do. Only real difference in appearance is the eight bolt hubs as opposed to the original wide five bolt style shown here:

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The compressor is a 1962 build so a few things are long obsolete and I have to make due; but it runs very well and makes plenty of oil free air.

None of this is a setback to me as I expect to need to work on things to keep them operational. I paid a kid two years back to repack the wheel bearings so I really don't know what went wrong there.....

Ordered a new set of 10 ply tires for the skid steer trailer also and this trailer's tires will rotate to the old trailer the compressor now sets on.

Between rain storms I cleaned up these antique John Deere mower decks and belt guard:

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The deck in front was from the early days of Deere lawn equipment I'm told. It's rough but going to be worked with as the tractor is a very low serial number unit.

 

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Need the junk trailer to haul ATV's and such to our family property for the holiday weekend. I hoisted the compressor from it's perch and it'll just hang there until I return on Tuesday:

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This is where the axle slides through on top of the springs:

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Balled up spindle end of axle beam after grinding so I could remove the inner bearing. Got so hot it melted the rubber in the inner seal too:

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I get a lot of use out of the shop gantry. Right now it's collapsed down and when all the way up, I have almost 17 feet of under hook clearance. Makes swinging diesel engines and truck cabs easy but the lights are too low to move it much when extended:

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Winds of recent have have removed some facia from my building. Need to get the manlift, (seen in background) out to replace it after new arrives. I put the building up myself with a couple of friends so hopefully can remember how to run a screw gun.....

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6 hours ago, Rawleigh99 said:

That gantry is a nice piece of equipment!

It is nice but was too heavy to push with a load on the hook. I installed a hydraulic pumping unit, valves and motors controlled through a joystick so it's quite easy now. 

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Going to attempt to repair this spindle end. Got an older and disused floor standing drill press w/MT3 spindle hole along with reduction gearboxes to fashion a horizontal boring machine from. 

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I need to get this compressor back into service as designed. Citing this, I'll postpone repair to the original axle for the time being. This sign job has pre sold three other small jobs to do upon completion. The axle "kit" should arrive tomorrow, (Wednesday) and I'll get to the steel yard yet this afternoon to pick up what will become the axle tube. Shouldn't take too long to get things fabricated once everything is here.

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Axle kit shipped to incorrect address but I did receive it today. Need to taper the lug holes on the one ton dually wheels I'd use for stud piloting, but the outer bearing housing protrusion wouldn't be bothersome at all such as a knee buster. Just for shtz & grins I used my crane dynamometer and the compressor weighs 4285# without the axle, wheels, or tires installed. That leaves me to think it's about 4800# fully dressed and ready to work. I set the compressor back onto the car hauler as have a couple more small tasks to tend to tomorrow with the compressor.

I did speak with the machine shop again this afternoon and thinking I'll have them manufacture two new spindles matching the undamaged one originally from the compressor to reuse the original hubs, and wheels. If they can get this done next week I'll just emulate the original axle very closely and reutilize the original pieces with new bearings, races, and seals. I've been needing to build an undercarriage for my Hobart diesel welder for a while now and would utilize the new parts for this if the stars align correctly.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Not a bad little repair and all fits and aligns as it should with weight on wheels:

image.thumb.jpeg.5ade48232fdf6b5f3cbff645e9106c76.jpeg

 

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2.50" square by .250" wall C1045 steel tube which is much stronger/tougher than C1018. I don't know what the spindles are machined from. Typical of tube that is not DOM there is an internal weld seam from the manufacturing shown here at the right side of the tube interior:

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This is one of the replacement spindles which needs to slide into the interior of the tube:

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As can be seen in the photo the weld bead precludes this spindle sliding into the tube.

A little measuring and grinding a slot with a "Zip" wheel and it slides in easily with minimal force. Alignment is good also:

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Did some measuring to allow a 1.00" clearance from the tire sidewall to body and this fit well having the tire tread centered in the fenders as original:

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Overall pretty happy with the task but it's been tough fitting it into the schedule. The blasting business is growing faster than originally anticipated. Seems with the economy in the tank as it is folks are electing to rebuild and repair older equipment rather than replace if a replacement is available. Myself attempting to specialize in mobile, (away from my shop) blasting seems to be a large draw.

I have several antique tractors and implements on the docket to get to this summer. 

 

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Nice work!  I have done the same thing with the groove for the weld seam before.  I have also removed it internally but it is a lot harder for not much gain in strength.  Have you looked at the dustless blasting that used the glass media and a little water?  Pretty slick, but I imagine it is expensive.

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