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1086 Steering Hand Pump


SaskM
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Last fall the steering hand pump started leaking quite badly from the bottom end where the wide seal is.  Today I attempted to remove the hand pump and get it fixed before any spring work starts.  I removed the 4 hydraulic lines and the 3 bolts that secure the pump in place and assumed that the pump could be pulled away from the firewall - that did not happen.  It moves forward about an inch and then no more.  There is a metallic clunk if I pull hard on the pump that comes from in the firewall.  Do I need to remove the dash to get this out, or am I simply not just doing something the correct way.  Any help is much appreciated.

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Have you removed the steering wheel. Don't know if that's your problem but I always remove the steering wheel before removing the Pump. There is a boot over the shaft and may just be stubborn.

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Thanks for all the valued replies! 

I finally got it off after about 3 hours of struggle.  The hand pump had been renewed by the previous owner about 15 years ago and it turns out the spring roll pin which is supposed to be 1.75 inches long was replaced with one that is 2 inches long.  The problem that created is that boss machined into the cast steering column that the dust seal rides on is about 1.875 in diameter, so it was impossible to pull the hand pump off without twisting it and sort of walking it out of the hole.  Needless to say that roll pin will be replaced or shortened before reassembly so it comes out easily the next time.  Once I had exhausted all other possibilities I kind of figured the problem was with the roll pin - especially once I checked the parts book and saw it is supposed to be 1.75 inches and if a generic replacement had been used I kinda figured it might be long.  The trick was finding exactly how to twist it when you can't see how the pin is oriented in that blind hole.  Glad it was 3 hours at my zero dollar shop rate instead of the dealer at $155 per! 

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8 hours ago, Matt Kirsch said:

I wish I could find someone local. I need an engine swapped and a TA done. Dealer doesn't want the business and I can't afford them anyway.

Amazing they simply DONT CARE,then how you have to KA so they can learn on your $$$ and still do it wrong 2-3x.

Talked with a man today about $10 ($800) parts, he tries to sell any available remaining  REAL parts for $50-80 where they should be.

Knew the bad actors and btos I was discussing, and had inside info on the agenda of grab the $$$$ and run. And the nature of the sheeeeeple to china  %$#%^$ then nothing but, buy new every two,or forever rent on miners script.

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