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806 engine removal


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I almost have this thing removed but the front mount is molded into the frame and I can’t get it to slide all the way out.  Do u really have to disassemble the front of this motor to get it out?????   Surely not.   I’m at a loss and could use some guidance at this point.   Thanks in advance.  5C8AC4DE-7DA0-47E8-B4C0-6A106DF2256A.thumb.jpeg.409f0074930966c9cd50a32130a101f0.jpeg086AB2D6-A918-4F03-827E-B98C351F4846.thumb.jpeg.9f92b2c72b540d5e9271949d694b01a7.jpeg40A0FDD7-7574-400D-B49B-8B24E4D13E57.thumb.jpeg.eaec4a3c4388c3b2114265805e026748.jpegC6C14820-275C-425C-9926-B4501D2759DE.thumb.jpeg.f4de0d7d75ad31716d1e81eaab67a496.jpeg

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I've never had to remove frame rails ( maybe loosen one side)  on any of the older tractors I've taken the engines out of make sure its fully supported on the front and drive wedges in both sides of the front axle 

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Your frame rail supports on your stand, being joined together at the bottom, is  going to make removing one of those rails difficult. Otherwise I would’ve said just pull the four bolts out of the front of one of those rails and there you go.
I think I would cut your lift stand set up in half under the oil pan , and bolt it back together with a sliding slotted piece of angle iron that allows them to slide out wider an inch, then you could just loosen the front bolts on the frame rail.

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Removing the engine was always the fun part of splitting.   We always chained the top of the radiator/bolster up to the ceiling with a come along, then removed the frame rails,  rolled the entire drivetrain back a couple feet, got the engine of the hoist, removed the top two bolts,  then pulled the engine off the transmission.  You needed a pretty good jack under the front of the transmission.

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I always split the engine and tranny first on any make of tractors and then reassemble it reverse order if you have good splitting stands its simple 

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It's not a poor design. Every 06 thru 88 is built that way. Even the magnums. 

I'd say your splitting stand just needs a little improvement.

You would have only need to loosen or remove one rail if your stand would be split in the middle, or if the uprights were bolted to the horizontal piece instead of welded. 

Also you have too much stick out on your adjustable screws in my opinion.  Catch one crack in concrete or a rock and you'll bend one of those over and have a large mess in a hurry. 

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27 minutes ago, Dan Robinson said:

 

Also you have too much stick out on your adjustable screws in my opinion.  Catch one crack in concrete or a rock and you'll bend one of those over and have a large mess in a hurry. 

That may seem "critical", but I have to agree after looking.   Those threaded rods are way too light - and threaded rod isn't very strong against bending.   So one catches & bends....you might be UNDER the engine as it folds over.  I can't stay quiet either if I see something that may be a danger to one of our IH buddies.   So, PLEASE be careful!  Also, consider at least upgrading the threaded rod size - 1" would not be too much IMO.

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I just noticed those all thread rods holding that up too  , that's a train wreck waiting to happen I'd never use anything that light there's a lot of leverage there and those bend really easy

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I had noticed the rods on the front, but I had not noticed the same rods under the rear housing. -That just looks sketchy.  Like you guys said, they should be increased to 1 inch, and then the frame extended so that they are only about 1/3 as long as they are now. That would provide enough adjustment to work on a taller Tractor if need be.  

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I always leave the engine hang on the clutch housing and roll the front end away first just leave the 2 1/2 bolts in at the top of the bell housing.  Then pick engine off with a cherry picker. 
reverse order going back together. 

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Sometimes you can't do that because of overhead Obstacles like hydraulic lines and fuel tank directly over the engine I split the engine first roll it out and it avoids having to deal with using a hoist to get tangled up in overhead stuff if its left on the clutch housing I reattach it reverse order because its so much easier lining up the shafts where you can make very precise adjustments using the front turn screws on the engine stand I've did it that way forever never failed me yet 

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