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I'm helping a friend repair his 686 I drove it before we pulled it into the shop and it only has one speed in ta or dd I've worked on several hydraulic operated ta's in the bigger tractors but this is new to me I read through the other thread that is currently going on and it's helped a lot. I took off the inspection cover on top and the problem looks obvious, i'm planning on splitting it tomorrow and one of the first concerns I have is when the rails and the bellhousing bolts are removed their is nothing to support the rear of the engine seems odd to me. I plan on blocking it up at the rear of the engine before I split it but still odd. I'll put a pic of what I found under the top cover.

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Leave one bolt on each side screwed in a couple threads. Pry it apart that far then finish unscrewing those bolts but leave them in frame rail and backplate. That supports rear of engine. I leave all the bolts in the holes but only pull the two through like that.

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You are correct. I’ve split several as we have a 544,656, and 686. I always support rear of engine with bottle jack, unbolt frame rails and support those, and roll rear of tractor off engine. 

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IH at one time offered a bar which you hung on the frame rails and went across by the back oil pan bolts to support the rear of the engine .

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Just leave one bolt in each side for safety after its split in half screw a nut on the other side and your golden its not that big of a deal

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12 hours ago, R190 said:

IH at one time offered a bar which you hung on the frame rails and went across by the back oil pan bolts to support the rear of the engine .

Being that we have three of this style I’d love to find one of those. 

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5 hours ago, ksfarmdude said:

Just leave one bolt in each side for safety after its split in half screw a nut on the other side and your golden its not that big of a deal

686/666 is different than 544/656 so it does not work that way.

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I got it split but can't get shaft out to get to PP. I took the bolt off on the end of IPTO shaft behind plug but couldn't get the gear to move didn't want to get too rough with it and possibly break it. I tried pulling the input shaft out it would move far enough to release from the clutch plate but won't come any further. can someone tell me what I'm missing.

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You have to pull clutch housing off. Shaft that holds IPTO gear is held in with a snap ring from the back. Remove snap ring and knock shaft out back so IPTO gear will drop down and input shaft will come out. 

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   Well I feel stupid,, for some reason I thought the TA cluth and PP could be serviced from a single split. Thanks for clarifying I've been in several larger tractors with hyd TA's but this one is a learning experience for me.

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It should come apart without having to pull Ta housing off of rear end.  Have replaced pto stub shafts when doing engine clutch jobs.

You need to get the Pto shaft slid forward, and off of the input shaft first.  The back brg needs to come off pto stub shaft

Been few years. Somebody chime in

 

Edit.

I'm thinking the coupler on back end of input shaft   is stuck on the input.

Slide hammer on input shaft. 

Keep track of which way that coupler is on. When it comes apart. #40

Don't want to wreck bearing that is catching on that lower gear. Don't want all the rollers ending up down below!

I would put the bearing retainer back on to hold the pto stub shaft and bearing  in place.  The input shaft will slide   out and thru the pto stub  shaft......I think🤔 . Been few years......the coupler won't fit thru it.

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The PTO driven gear has a tapered cone that wedges tight between the gear and the shaft at the front, under the heavy washer. If you could tap the gear forward at the bottom you may get the cone to come loose and let the gear **** forward enough to get the upper PTO shaft/bearing past the gear. Rattling the gear with an air hammer may loosen the tapered cone too.

I don't know if I would go that far into it without putting a ramp and carrier in the TA while I was close. Unless you know for a fact that the low side never missed a beat.

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Ole815 is telling like it is. I would add that shaft and coupler were originally one piece. Many are loose when serviced. Others are not. Yours included. Even if you get the shaft out of the coupler. The pto shaft may or may not clear that gear. My approach was careful use of an air chisel to push rear bearing off. Then both shafts slide right out.

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The rear PTO unit need to be pulled there's a tapered ring that holds the lower ipto gear in place that will have to be dropped out the bottom to remove the PTO input shaft I always removed the T/A section from the rear frame for T/A service work also made things come apart alot easier

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Thanks for everyone's help here is what I did to get the PP and clutch out with one split. I used the slide hammer to remove the input shaft from the coupler then moved the bearing on the ipto shaft starting with a small chisel then used the air chisel to move it the rest of the way it was fairly easy. just to clarify the input shaft will not fit through the hollow pto shaft but when the bearing was removed both shafts came right out easily. 

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If your not removing the TA unit, which of course you don't have to if your sure ramp and rollers are good, make sure the nut holding the flywheel is tight. Has a lock ring washer behind the nut you have to bend a tab on it to tighten it then relock with another tab.

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Since he's been using it the past few years in ta only without any hiccups we will roll the dice it will be ok. it will only run a bush hog and auger from here on out less than 50  hrs a year. I will check that nut before we go together with it.

One other question, the yoke that holds release bearing carrier for ta release bearing is loose on the pins should it be tight? I cheked into replacing all of that outfit but the cradle p/n 360653R2 is no longer available.  

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Those are pretty much  loose fitting on the pins on all that I've seen , as long you don't see any bad wear or have any broken areas on it it will be fine

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I was just trying to figure out why this failed.

It looks like there was a lot of heat, while under load, and slipping.

What did the little flywheel look like?

That shows all the signs of a lot of heat too.

Just wondering?

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Sorry that I am late to the party.... put the bolt back in the lower shaft without the heavy washer. put two small pieces of wood in behind the lower gear, and hit the bolt with a heavy punch and good hammer. That will loosen the tapered ring. Remove the ring and bolt, the gear will slide ahead far enough and (I think drop down) and allow proper clearance to remove and install the top shaft. This is how I replace the input seals.

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