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4386 Refresh


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Hi guys,

My 4386 refresh is moving along (slowly).  I have the cab stripped and painted now and have been bouncing back and forth trying to do anything mechanical it needs while everything is so easy to reach.  I pulled the valve stack and found a local that will install the (4) valve rebuild kits I bought cheap enough that I did not try my hand at it.  I have a local welding shop replacing all 4 steering cylinder ball sockets.  I bought Cat 2 hitch replacements for about $20 apiece and they look like they will work out nicely.  

 

I have a very leaky injection pump that needs attention as well.  I tried tightening all the lines, hoping to get lucky and it made no difference.  The consensus seems to be a reman replacement is the best move.  I've read where the engine needs to be at 18 degrees before removal.  I watched a video that showed an inspection plate on the bell housing of another model IH tractor with a 466 but I don't see that on mine.  Where do I look to set the timing correctly before I pull this old pump?  TIA

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Remove the square head plug right next to the injection pump, you should be able to see a pointer. There is a mark on the timing gear hub that you can line up with that pointer. There should also be marks on the crankshaft pulley.

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I pulled the only plug I saw, it was a hex head so I'm not sure if that was the correct one.  I cranked my neck in every imaginable direction trying to see any kind of pointer inside to no avail.  I can only see a few gear splines.  Am I looking in the correct place?

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That's the right spot, it is hard to see. Another option would be to remove the cover on the opposite side if possible.

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Remove the cover on the front side. It has to come off anyway to remove the gear. You will be able to see the pointer easier but its still tough. Should be timing marks on front pulley. To get engine on number one I remove the injector lines as an assembly and move throttle to bout half throttle and crank over and watch fuel being pumped out of line fittings. Number one is very front of rotary head and goes counter clockwise 1 5 3 6 2 4. While cranking watch for fuel coming out of 3 6 2 or 4 and stop cranking and then continue rolling engine be hand with fan blade until front pulley is at 18 degrees. Pointer on front of pump should then be lined up with mark. Remove gear with the three retaining bolts. 1/2 socket I believe. Then remove the mounting bolts of the pump. Front and rear bolts are 3/8 and bottom bolt is 5/16.   engine should now be on #1 at 18 degrees. Do not roll engine again until pump is back on.  Hope this is not to confusing.

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On 3/11/2022 at 12:27 PM, mrfred54 said:

Remove the cover on the front side. It has to come off anyway to remove the gear. You will be able to see the pointer easier but its still tough. Should be timing marks on front pulley. To get engine on number one I remove the injector lines as an assembly and move throttle to bout half throttle and crank over and watch fuel being pumped out of line fittings. Number one is very front of rotary head and goes counter clockwise 1 5 3 6 2 4. While cranking watch for fuel coming out of 3 6 2 or 4 and stop cranking and then continue rolling engine be hand with fan blade until front pulley is at 18 degrees. Pointer on front of pump should then be lined up with mark. Remove gear with the three retaining bolts. 1/2 socket I believe. Then remove the mounting bolts of the pump. Front and rear bolts are 3/8 and bottom bolt is 5/16.   engine should now be on #1 at 18 degrees. Do not roll engine again until pump is back on.  Hope this is not to confusing.

easiest way to tell if on no. 1 cyl. is to take the triangle shape cover off side of pump. theres a line on the pump head. if u can see the line u are on no. 1

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Thanks for the all the tips.  I was able to remove the cover on the front side and find the pointer and mark.  Also, once I had the area better lit I found the mark on the crank pulley as well.  This was my first time pulling a pump.  I pulled it out with the gear still attached to the pump.  Is that something I will regret?  

 

On another note, I really dislike the way the door prop system works.  Mine sticks and rattles all the time.  I bought a replacement door strut from Shoup (part number SH28263) for a different IH tractor to see if I could make it work here without too much modification.  It bolted right into the existing holes with zero modification.  The door doesn't quite open to 90 degrees but it's good enough for me!

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The gear will be installed after the pump is mounted, then the three bolts can be tightened while keeping the pump lined up with the timing mark

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I had a perfect 70 degree day off work and got some paint work done on the main frame.  I sprayed it with a 2 part epoxy primer from Eastwood and 2 coats of IH Red Rust Oleum.  I'm real happy with how it looks.

I shipped the injection pump off to Central Diesel Injection in KY.  They received it yesterday and were impressed with my choice of shipping containers.  I used a 5 gallon home depot bucket and stuffed the open space with old t-shirts.  I thought that would be more durable than a cardboard box and a lot easier to handle (I left the handle attached).  

My luck has not been as good with the hydraulic stack.  I bought (4) of the valve rebuild kits for over $1000 only to have my local hydraulic shop tell me I'd be way ahead to replace each valve, that the inside of them were terrible.  I stumbled onto Anderson Tractor parts website and found refurbished valves for about $400 each and bought those.  Hopefully I can return the parts I already bought.  

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  • 1 month later...

Project is moving along.  I've been waiting on new wire harnesses forever and postponed some parts of the project to make those easier to install.  I was tired of waiting and moved along anyway.  I set the cab back on which was not much fun.  Holding something that weighs over a ton 12 feet in the air and lining up bolt holes was interesting.  I spent the better part of the next day hooking everything back up.  I ran all new heater hoses, A/C lines, fuel lines, and several hydraulic hoses.  I was excited to see if it would start!  That was my first time removing/reinstalling an injection pump and I know the timing is critical so I was nervous.  

Here it is:

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

I went ahead and put everything back together that made sense without my new wiring harnesses.  Everything works except the lights and A/C.  I had my 14 year old help me with the duals, snapped some pictures and hit the field.  I was able to get 80 acres worked with a 26ft IH 496 and it was awesome.  Tractor ran like a top.  I found a small leak at the input for the rear diff but not bad.  Other than that everything was dry.  That was a relief because I had this thing tore apart and it was my first time doing anything close to this.  

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Looks very good, I'll bet you really like that seat. Its always a good feeling when you get something back together and it runs trouble free.

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