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Removing and installing rear axle in 4366


acem
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I am finally motivated to replace the rear axle in my 4366. I have rice ground that's too soupy to roll with 2wd tractor. I have a complete rear axle from a 4386 to put in.

This will be a major job. I will be doing it on gravel, not concrete. Everything is very heavy. I have both the 4366 and 43/5/786 service manuals but bhey list different methods!

The 4366 book shows holding up the back with Jack stands and rolling it out the side. 

The 43/5/786 book shows installing the locking pin (my 4366 does not have this).  Then pick up the back from the sides and removing it out the back.I will be doing this job outside on gravel. 

Anyone done this?

Seen it done?

Rumors, opinions, etc?

Thx-Ace 

Ps: bonus points if you can identify the magazine I used as a paper weight. It's to honor those fighting in Ukraine 

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Have done this many times in the gravel/dirt when there was no choice.

It's not complicated, just heavy stuff and fighting rusty fasteners usually.

Block the tractor up on the rear, remove all the wheels, pull the drive shaft, remove the draw bar, take the side bolts out of the cross member, support each axle with a engine hoist or tractor and loader, put a floor jack under the cross member, then remove the axle clamps and let it down carefully,

Drag it out the side....installation is the reverse.

You should really lock the articulation joint before you lift it....if there are no pin holes then snap a bunch of stroke control spacers on the steering cylinders if nothing else. If there is a leak in the steering circuit the tractor can buckle at the joint and bad things can happen in a hurry.

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How are you planning on lifting the axle? Closest I have come is front axle on 2+2's. That job I was on concrete so used to cherry pickers, one on each side lowered down onto plywood and then pulled out sideways. 

You do want to lock it so it can not pivot sideways, couple pieces of angle iron on the steering rams should do that trick if they do not have a way to pin the pivot. 

If on gravel I would throw a couple of sheets of plywood down on each side and use cherry pickers. I would think plywood doubled up would allow you to roll around a bit and not break threw. Always add another sheet if needed. 

IH must have really had the rear in the air to pull that axle assembly out on that 47 with the tires still on. 

I think I would be more worried about getting jack stands secure than anything. Make sure you have a stable base for them to sit on. I have pipe stands similar to what is pictured, they work great on concrete and not worth a darn in dirt as legs just poke into the ground.  

Take pictures and show us how you end up doing it.

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Close but no cigar.

It's an ak74 magazine. The Russians and Ukrainians  both use the ak74 and its variants in their militaries. The ak47 fires 7.62x39 and the ak74 fires 5.45x39. 5.45x39 was developed in response to the American 223/5.56 and is an excellent cartridge. I enjoy shooting my semi auto ak74 much more than my ak47.

Thanks for the advice on swapping the rear axle. I hope to start soon.

Thx-Ace 

AK-74-vs-AK-47-difference-in-calibers.jpg

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On 3/1/2022 at 11:07 PM, acem said:

Close but no cigar.

It's an ak74 magazine. The Russians and Ukrainians  both use the ak74 and its variants in their militaries. The ak47 fires 7.62x39 and the ak74 fires 5.45x39. 5.45x39 was developed in response to the American 223/5.56 and is an excellent cartridge. I enjoy shooting my semi auto ak74 much more than my ak47.

Thanks for the advice on swapping the rear axle. I hope to start soon.

Thx-Ace 

AK-74-vs-AK-47-difference-in-calibers.jpg

Never would have thought to come here and read about your 4366 and end up reading about AK's, this is why i love this place

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CAAF1617-40D5-441A-A42A-C9F9FE30B6C4.thumb.jpeg.e3e83ea172f46ff26bd8c2df398549fc.jpegJust finishing getting this one back in .  Unfortunately I have done this many,many times.  This one the brakes failed left side.  Forklift on either side is how we do them.  The concrete stops where the blocks are.  I have done them on gravel before.  Just big and heavy.  1 inch impact and a good sized bar with a pointed end for lineup purposes are helpful.  Usually the hardest part is getting the hubs freed up.  

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Thanks for the ideas and pics. I'm still gathering everything together and my friend calls and finally wants to put my 5488 back together! I wish get this done... Thx-Ace 

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  • 1 month later...

Finally got the 4366 up to the shop area. Used the 1066 as a crutch again. It took a while to get there. It was almost two miles going backwards with the 1066 very slow...

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7 hours ago, acem said:

Here's a link. Its been broken a while.

 

Ace if it is just the axle broken. Reared good it is a lot easier to change just that side axle. Been a while but I am positive you can pull axle and housing out side without removing entire rear end. And for guys that do a lot of 4 wd tractor or truck repair. These jacks will be your best friend. Use sets like these for many 4wd axle removal jobs.

D0429EA4-A887-4C64-81FA-2198F3A2D60D.jpeg

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22 hours ago, acem said:

Finally got the 4366 up to the shop area. Used the 1066 as a crutch again. It took a while to get there. It was almost two miles going backwards with the 1066 very slow...

IMG_0145.jpg

IMG_0144.jpg

Here’s how we got a 9520 back that blew the front driveshaft out going down the road.50D443E0-AC4C-47EE-A16B-0D22EFB6F4C0.thumb.jpeg.1d75a707f0e999f06accaca27ff145fa.jpegI made that hitch out of some stuff we had laying around.  Tractor had no anything driveshaft wiped it all out.  Ran hoses from front one to back ones steering cylinders for steering.  Went about a mile like this which was more than enough. 

 

2 hours ago, dale560 said:

Ace if it is just the axle broken. Reared good it is a lot easier to change just that side axle. Been a while but I am positive you can pull axle and housing out side without removing entire rear end. And for guys that do a lot of 4 wd tractor or truck repair. These jacks will be your best friend. Use sets like these for many 4wd axle removal jobs.

D0429EA4-A887-4C64-81FA-2198F3A2D60D.jpeg

Dale those jacks are awesome .  We got a set a couple years ago.  Use them every day.  So much better than bottle jacks for stability.  D8E2D83F-5E68-4BD5-A00F-E07A6B89E796.thumb.jpeg.f5c2436bb34b364863a7d2637c15f339.jpeg0F018FA8-621C-4D64-8DD2-502D32D92BC1.thumb.jpeg.ab508295d927dbc44e06a026eb8c9d74.jpegwe have done a few of these at work.  This was before the Emerson jacks.  You will get through it.  It’s big and heavy.  Just think It through and plan it out.  I just realized I posted a picture of a different  one we worked on in this thread.  We do probably one a year now that I think about it. 

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The set of jacks we have came from a IHC dealer close out in spring of 1986. They are going on 40 plus years old now, have been used and abused but they earned their keep. I can’t remember what brand they are but they are red. They send to have a name painted on them. Bet you I used them on 1500 tractors. They are my splitting jack for backend, used to use one to lift John Deere 20 series under oil pan to drop hyd pump. Then with a heavy tube across, one on each side pull motors or axles out of John Deere 4wd.

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@Paystar5000 what is causing those axle failures? Poor design, hard work, front blades? I see there are 20 and 30 series in your pictures, are both trouble? They have a pretty good reputation around here, although the largest in either one of those series were not particularly popular around here. I lost track of how many PIP’s there was on the front driveshaft of our 9410R. 

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1 hour ago, acem said:

I'm all ears but I don't see how you would replace the axle with the rear end still in the tractor.

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It’s been about 20 years ago. I put axle bearings in the back wheel of a 4586 while it sat on combine transport. I wonder if a 4586 had a different back frame. I am absolutely positive it sat on a frame combine trailer while I changed parts. Then I drove it off when done.

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The frames are basically the same between the 4366 through 4586. It would be easy to do the outer bearing but I just can't see removing and reinstalling the hip in frame. 

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16 minutes ago, acem said:

The frames are basically the same between the 4366 through 4586. It would be easy to do the outer bearing but I just can't see removing and reinstalling the hip in frame. 

It was that same side and rear axle. His didn’t have 3 point hitch. Like I said the last one was a long time ago , dad hauled it 30 miles on our A frame combine trailer. We left it on trailer. Pulled wheels off and axle housing. I know it was up in air enough to get axle and housing out. We replaced both wheel bearing at the time.

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I think here's how I would tackle that.....

Either have it sitting on concrete, or a couple slabs of plywood.   Remove the other side tires, they are gonna have to come off anyway.

Using the 3pt and chains just like you moved it, lower the entire rear end until the frame/tranny drawbar is on the ground.   Then pick it back up a little.

Block the tranny up just enough that when sitting the entire rear frame all the way down on the drawbar, the tranny sits on the blocks.

Remove the driveshaft and bolts holding the rear end to the frame.

Using the 3pt and chains just like you moved it, raise the frame up as high as you can and block it.   Rechain and repeat until you run out of lift.  

At this point, you may need to use some jacks to raise the rear frame farther----but get it just high enough to get the axle housing out.   Block REALLY well.

If you have a forklift of some such, block and chain the rear axle housing to the forks, and unbolt & remove.   Getting it lined back up may be tricky, but think ahead and figure out  how to reinstall without damage.

I would not pull the rear housing out from under unless you really need to, or want to work on the internals.

Thats my remote suggestion - you solution may vary based on ACTUAL hands on!

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On 4/18/2022 at 8:50 PM, acem said:

Here's a closeup of the broken axle. 

IMG_0147.jpg

I studied "Broke" and that is?

We had a heavy duty wheel lift and were on concrete. 

We would remove the entire wheel, axle, bull gear and housing all at one time.

We had two wheel lifts so would roll both sides out of the way when we were replacing differentials in the mid-70's on the 1066's, etc..

I now see this is the same rear ends but well hid inside the main frame.

It looks like you figured out how to do this and it went well.

Things are just heavy and one needs to make sure nothing gets away from you.

Nice work!

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