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Farmall H Differential Bearing Endplay Shimming


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I am having trouble setting the endplay on a Farmall H after replacing the Differential and Bull Pinion Bearings. One of the carriers was broken so I replaced it with one from an earlier tractor. I pressed the Pinion bearings on the shafts and the differential bearing in the housing with loading gates facing outside like the book stated. I started with equal shims on each side and tried to measure endplay but the differential would not move side to side by hand like a video I watched showed. I used a a pry bar and its around .018 movement but I have read it needs to be around .010. When I went to remove a shim the differential bearing stayed on the differential itself. Should the movement be by hand or will you need to use a prybar? Are the bearing supposed to pressed onto the differential or the pinion carriers, the book doesn't really specify? 

 

Thanks, hopefully setting backlash will go a little smoother.

 

The bearings I'm using were crossed by my supplier from ST227 to SKF 212 MF.

Video Reference: 

 

 

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3 hours ago, LipRipper3006 said:

Update: My endplay is now .012-.013 with a prybar and my backlash is .008. I'm waiting on prussian blue to come in before I check the contact patch and install the seals.

Use the prybar.

You want all slack removed so it is set to the right amount.

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Like hillman said it's best to check backlash before disassembly and put back with same backlash, but with a damaged carrier housing it may not work . If the right carrier was okay you should have started it with the same shims and depending on where broke the same shims anyway. For first assembly you can leave some shims off of left side when setting backlash. Shim right side to backlash wanted then adjust left side in to get .010 to .020 float on ball bearings.  If say you had .020 backlash on gears before removing they would run quieter if put back the same even if over spec. Now you have to adjust by pattern and hope for the best.  

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I have sold many bull pinion shaft carriers because guys forget or don't know you cannot remove them with the bull gear in place.( see pic - bull gear is in the slot) they get busted or cracked but usually you can still check backlash before you disassemble it

 

when someone asks me for a carrier I don't ask why because I know what happened and they are more than likely embarrassed

 

bull caarier.jpg

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On 2/11/2022 at 8:54 AM, hillman said:

I have sold many bull pinion shaft carriers because guys forget or don't know you cannot remove them with the bull gear in place.( see pic - bull gear is in the slot) they get busted or cracked but usually you can still check backlash before you disassemble it

 

when someone asks me for a carrier I don't ask why because I know what happened and they are more than likely embarrassed

 

bull caarier.jpg

I had to get a new used set of gears for the rear end, the bolt that holds the pilot bearing backed out and caused the gear to run on a angle which ground the teeth pretty good. I bought a complete matched set with bull gears, bull pinions, differential, driving & countershaft with all the gears. As for the Pinion carriers, there was a casting flaw or crack that ran most of the way around. When I used the bolts to push the carrier out it broke almost all the way around. I have my backlash at .011 and side play to .010 with the differential pushed to the right of the tractor and closer to .005 backlash when pushed all the way to the left.

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273616206_471513557763867_2594029504383327107_n.jpg

247831326_1576189096081021_341860735847388352_n.jpg

258934347_1358537844615612_64822435581344686_n.jpg

269957821_913003929581943_5389378582791911284_n.jpg

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1 hour ago, LipRipper3006 said:

I had to get a new used set of gears for the rear end, the bolt that holds the pilot bearing backed out and caused the gear to run on a angle which ground the teeth pretty good. I bought a complete matched set with bull gears, bull pinions, differential, driving & countershaft with all the gears. As for the Pinion carriers, there was a casting flaw or crack that ran most of the way around. When I used the bolts to push the carrier out it broke almost all the way around. I have my backlash at .011 and side play to .010 with the differential pushed to the right of the tractor and closer to .005 backlash when pushed all the way to the left.

248006075_1145842036188495_7420117604015540009_n.jpg

273616206_471513557763867_2594029504383327107_n.jpg

247831326_1576189096081021_341860735847388352_n.jpg

258934347_1358537844615612_64822435581344686_n.jpg

269957821_913003929581943_5389378582791911284_n.jpg

in your case that is all you can do. I should have been more clear in my statement, good work. In an ideal scenario it would have been nice to measure clearances in the old housing. - mostly for reference and I am anal about somethings .👍

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22 hours ago, Diesel Doctor said:

It is rather strange to see one of these this clean.

I had all but the axle housings & moving parts blasted inside and out after cleaning to remove all oil residue, the used Glyptal Enamel to coat most surfaces to help keep it from sweating and collecting moisture as well as making it easier to drain the old oil out if it was to get milky. The original was removed when I cleaned out the thick grease/oil from the housing with diesel and brake cleaner. It seemed to be more of a red oxide primer that was on it originally.

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