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Case 1270


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2 hours ago, wendyoakscubs said:

Guy, I really hope you sit down and read that manual you posted above, whether you spend the money to get a paper one, or a CD, PDF, whatever. Read it while nature calls, or before bed, at breakfast, something. There's 13 pages here of you not knowing what the heck is going on with a piece of farm equipment. I get we all learn how to farm at some point in our lives but in my opinion, from what I've read here, please read the book and understand some stuff before you or someone you love gets hurt by you operating a machine you have no clue about. Same goes for your 1066. I mean that in the most respectable, honest, non-Jack a**way I can say it. 

Fully agree. Just the lack of correct terminology is a huge hindrance when trying to explain problems to people. My assumption is a possible language barrier? 

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5 hours ago, wendyoakscubs said:

Guy, I really hope you sit down and read that manual you posted above, whether you spend the money to get a paper one, or a CD, PDF, whatever. Read it while nature calls, or before bed, at breakfast, something. There's 13 pages here of you not knowing what the heck is going on with a piece of farm equipment. I get we all learn how to farm at some point in our lives but in my opinion, from what I've read here, please read the book and understand some stuff before you or someone you love gets hurt by you operating a machine you have no clue about. Same goes for your 1066. I mean that in the most respectable, honest, non-Jack a**way I can say it. 

With all due respect Thanks for nothing..

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38 minutes ago, Black Shuck said:

Man, half the time I don't know a darn thing, but at least I know what I don't know...

And to add to that, I am ready to admit what I don't know because it's ALOT.

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2 hours ago, wendyoakscubs said:

Hey, at least you're picking up your operators manual and reading through it...

Been reading it. After I went discing a crp field. I shut it off. It won't start again.. I did check the start switch underneath. The wires were loose. I tighten it. Started the key. Nothing. When the NH guys came by they only replaced the starter and the hydraulic quads. 

I talked with the guys that repaired my powershift. They use a jump box to start it. I'll probably bring my jump box next time. I feel like it's hit or miss it will start.

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Right.  I thought when he was talking fuel shut off before, that maybe it was actually cranking but not starting. Opposed to the last several pages, where I thought it wasn’t cranking.   
So the place that repaired the trans, also put new ends on cables, but started it with a jump pack. I wonder if they were attaching the jump pack directly to the starter, to bypass a issue between the battery’s and ignition switch. 
 
There’s still only a few wires involved here. 

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14 minutes ago, midnightman said:

How many volts at the batteries. Batteries not charging or have a draw while sitting? Would be where I would start looking if it will start with a jumpbox

When I just brought my 1270. I hooked the jump box on the 2 12v batteries and got it started. It took hours to finally get the starter cranking. It's happened to this tractor since I brought it...

I'm going back to New holland tomorrow to pay my bill and pick up my new key switch to install. 

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1 hour ago, jass1660 said:

So the starter doesn’t engage or the engine spins and won’t fire? Clarifying helps immensely in situations such as these. 

Mainly. The starter doesn't engage at all most of the time. It takes hours to get the starter to engage... It's a hit or miss I'll successfully crank it to start. 

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28 minutes ago, Solocam8925 said:

Mainly. The starter doesn't engage at all most of the time. It takes hours to get the starter to engage... It's a hit or miss I'll successfully crank it to start. 

Check batteries.  If they're good, keep looking.  If they're bad, replace 'em.  Using the jump box is fine, but it's probably masking you finding the real issue.

I am thinking it's probably an intermittently bad electrical connection.  Start jumping wires to rule things out.  Key switch (which you've bought), any solenoids, neutral start switch, clutch pedal switch, etc.  Shouldn't be too many possibilities in the starter circuit on that tractor.  Start ruling them out one by one.  Check every connection.  If it "won't crank, won't crank, won't crank, won't crank, etc, etc," THEN it cranks...its an intermittently bad connection. 

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20 minutes ago, TN Hillbilly said:

Check batteries.  If they're good, keep looking.  If they're bad, replace 'em.  Using the jump box is fine, but it's probably masking you finding the real issue.

I am thinking it's probably an intermittently bad electrical connection.  Start jumping wires to rule things out.  Key switch (which you've bought), any solenoids, neutral start switch, clutch pedal switch, etc.  Shouldn't be too many possibilities in the starter circuit on that tractor.  Start ruling them out one by one.  Check every connection.  If it "won't crank, won't crank, won't crank, won't crank, etc, etc," THEN it cranks...its an intermittently bad connection. 

2 12vBatteries brand new, Starter/solenoid brand new. I'm hoping the key switch is my hope. If not. I'll use jump box, and my rig to jump it.

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I hate working on electrical, and am not very good at it. But you need a cheap volt meter. This day and age there are more and more new parts that are junk before you put them on. In this case your batteries could be bad, even being new. You need to know if the batteries are up over 12.3 v before you start, that is the very lowest and might not be enough in all cases.. Then you need to get it on the other end of cable too. You can clean wire ends for pennies on the dollar as to getting somebody from town.

 

I hope you know more than it seems reading this. Using the same terms/names helps explain things, so you get the best advice. No matter what you think of the answers some give you, keep it to yourself if you think they are crazy. Because there are any number here that have so much more experience than you and me combined. They will get discouraged and not bother answering any of us when they are not appreciated. 

 

I am a old guy farmed sidehills with crawler tractors, so I know nothing about yours. But have seen all sorts of things of the "that never happened before" things. It seem there are several that have had the same model as you have that "got the easy hours out of them, and a bunch more" but have been away from them moving on. But  they still know what they did to make them work. You need to consider how to best apply that way to what you want to do. Hopefully your pocket are deep enough to learn it by trial and error, but they are giving free experience you don't have to pay for. 

I hope I am miss reading your tone, but your just not coming across as wanting to learn. Just trying to show you what a great bunch is here, as some sites I have been on would of given up on helping you already.

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ProProblem solved. After I replaced the key switch. It won't start. The NH service guy mentioned that the guy that fixed my tractor had to move the shifter in order to start. 

I noticed the shifter gears had to be in 100% Neutral in order to start and crank. If one of the shifter is a little off even if it's in Neutral. It won't start....

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That's the neutral switch that you had a picture of up above. Its over on the RH side of the transmission between the 2 shifter levers that you move when you shift the range lever. Some of those 70/90/94 series Case tractors were fussy to find the absolute neutral in order for the switch to close, allowing the engine to crank. 

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Along the same topic,’Your 1066 has a clutch safety switch mounted under the platform on the left-hand side. It should only crank when the clutch is depressed. If you were able to make the starter activate without depressing the clutch, that means somebody has taken the wires off of the switch and spliced them together when the switch  was suspect.  Standing beside the tractor, look about a foot behind the clutch pedal and you should be able to see it

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48 minutes ago, stronger800 said:

Along the same topic,’Your 1066 has a clutch safety switch mounted under the platform on the left-hand side. It should only crank when the clutch is depressed. If you were able to make the starter activate without depressing the clutch, that means somebody has taken the wires off of the switch and spliced them together when the switch  was suspect.  Standing beside the tractor, look about a foot behind the clutch pedal and you should be able to see it

Ive own the 1066 for 3yrs... it's got 1 12v battery and my solution to start it is to hook up jumper cables and spray a crap of ether to get it fully running. It's really Cold blooded compared to my 1270...

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Sounds like the 10 could use some help. They are usually pretty good starters. Shouldn't need any ether neither. Nor jumper cables for that matter......🤔

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We have had five of them for 30 years. Not sure all of them added together have gone through one can of ether. I have used jumper cables once or twice. We all have. But certainly not regularly. 
one 12v likely isn’t enough. 

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