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Case 1270


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1 hour ago, Ihcubguy said:

I would check the solenoid on the starter as has already been suggested. We had to replace ours more than once on our 1270. And as far as the wire ends being clean and new connectors put on the cables that does not mean the cables themselves are any good if it is the old cables with new ends on them. The cables could have corrosion in them upping the internal resistance to the point the "juice" don't push through the cables anymore. I'd be hesitant to buy a starter till you absolutely know for certain it is indeed the problem. Many places in my area will not return electrical parts. The key switch is also a good thing to check as well. That 1270 is a minimum of 44 years old and wiring doesn't last forever.

Tried to take the solenoid off the new starter. It's more of a pain in the butt to get the solenoid off the new starter. I decided to get the guys from new Holland to service it and change the starter and the key switch. If the wires the problem. I'll make em do it. I just don't have the proper tools and time to do it. It's not like touching the farmall super a and the 140... 

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12 hours ago, stronger800 said:

  I’m stuck in that era as well though. ‘70s.  
I’m intimidated by newer stuff too, but a starters a starter. 

As I disconnected the battery cables. Where the ground cable. I don't have milwake power socket gun to take it out. The bolt that holds the starter underneath looks like a pain in the butt to take off. I just don't have the proper tools for these type of big machines compared to the classic farmalls... 

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The ground is just a 12 point bolt, use a long wrench with a 12 point box end on it. 

Why are you taking the starter off? 

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31 minutes ago, Solocam8925 said:

As I disconnected the battery cables. Where the ground cable. I don't have milwake power socket gun to take it out. The bolt that holds the starter underneath looks like a pain in the butt to take off. I just don't have the proper tools for these type of big machines compared to the classic farmalls... 

You don’t “need” an impact to do that job. You can do this with basic hand tools. Go get yourself a decent 1/2” drive socket set and some open end wrenches. That is, if you’re sure you need to take it off because you have checked everything else. 

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48 minutes ago, Dirt_Floor_Poor said:

You don’t “need” an impact to do that job. You can do this with basic hand tools. Go get yourself a decent 1/2” drive socket set and some open end wrenches. That is, if you’re sure you need to take it off because you have checked everything else. 

I already got a new starter and key switch from case ih. I gave it to the guys in service at new holland. I'll let them handle it for now. I got too much stuff to do now that it's greenhouse season... planting vegetable seeds on trays for transplant..

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On 2/4/2022 at 10:30 AM, brahamfireman said:

To add to this thread. I bought my 3394, which is a full time fwa 2394, with a noise in the transmission. I split it myself and put $1,800 in parts into it. Wasn't much for parts either.....

Here's a picture of what was in the clutchpack in the 1270. There really was something in the Powershift.

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They got the starter replaced along with the hydraulic quads. Did some discing. But after pulling the fuel line to shut down the tractor. It won't start. Is it that fuel choke line on the left from the key switch that's causing it to not start????

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I really think getting an operator’s manual for this tractor would be a really cheap and easy way to save you a lot of time and money as you learn about this new to you tractor 

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2 hours ago, midnightman said:

I really think getting an operator’s manual for this tractor would be a really cheap and easy way to save you a lot of time and money as you learn about this new to you tractor 

Everything piece of equipment I buy if it's new I get one. If it's used,I order one.Owners manual is a must have for new to equipment or if you ran them forever. I bought good used equipment at auctions for pennies on the dollar,was told by previous owners on more than one occasion that's its either wore out or never worked right.In every case owners manual told me what to fix,adjust,whatever and machines worked fine afterwards. 

Buy a manual. 

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1 hour ago, CDN 400 said:

Did I read that right that you unhooked the fuel line to shut it off? I hope that's not what you meant.

Agreed! If you had to remove the fuel line to shut it down, then you have problems! Also, what ere these "quads" of which you speak? 

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I'm sorry I meant the stop control. A while ago. It started again. But what I did that caused it to not crank was I pulled the stop control switch too long. I realized that you use the stop control till it shuts down. Then you have to push it back fast. I started it and shutting it off over and over until i figured it out. 

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9 minutes ago, Farmall Doctor said:

Agreed! If you had to remove the fuel line to shut it down, then you have problems! Also, what ere these "quads" of which you speak? 

The pioneer quads were fixed and replaced by the NH guys. Lifting the disc and chisel plow is better than before...

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3 minutes ago, CDN 400 said:

Check to make sure your cable is tight at the pump where it attaches to the shut off arm.  Kind of a silly question but why are you disking in the mud??

My soils sandy. On our potato field It's pretty dry to disc on this section. Mainly I was testing the 1270s power and using the right rpm. Surprised between the speed throttle lever. That's plenty of power pulling that 12ft disc. 

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2 hours ago, Solocam8925 said:

I'm sorry I meant the stop control. A while ago. It started again. But what I did that caused it to not crank was I pulled the stop control switch too long. I realized that you use the stop control till it shuts down. Then you have to push it back fast. I started it and shutting it off over and over until i figured it out. 

 

That's not right. Ours will sit for weeks sometimes with the stop knob pulled out. Push it in, hit the key and they fire right up. 

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43 minutes ago, brahamfireman said:

That's not right. Ours will sit for weeks sometimes with the stop knob pulled out. Push it in, hit the key and they fire right up. 

The 1270 manual says you have to push the stop switch all the way in In order to start the tractor. But This happened to me many times since I brought it... The new starter did help the tractor crank start faster than before... I'll keep doing that for now...

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3 hours ago, Farmall Doctor said:

Agreed! If you had to remove the fuel line to shut it down, then you have problems! Also, what ere these "quads" of which you speak? 

He’s calling the SCV’s quadrant for hydraulics...

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11 hours ago, Solocam8925 said:

My soils sandy. On our potato field It's pretty dry to disc on this section. Mainly I was testing the 1270s power and using the right rpm. Surprised between the speed throttle lever. That's plenty of power pulling that 12ft disc. 

Shouldn't even notice it behind you

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13 hours ago, Solocam8925 said:

I'm sorry I meant the stop control. A while ago. It started again. But what I did that caused it to not crank was I pulled the stop control switch too long. I realized that you use the stop control till it shuts down. Then you have to push it back fast. I started it and shutting it off over and over until i figured it out. 

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Guy, I really hope you sit down and read that manual you posted above, whether you spend the money to get a paper one, or a CD, PDF, whatever. Read it while nature calls, or before bed, at breakfast, something. There's 13 pages here of you not knowing what the heck is going on with a piece of farm equipment. I get we all learn how to farm at some point in our lives but in my opinion, from what I've read here, please read the book and understand some stuff before you or someone you love gets hurt by you operating a machine you have no clue about. Same goes for your 1066. I mean that in the most respectable, honest, non-Jack a**way I can say it. 

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Just now, wendyoakscubs said:

Guy, I really hope you sit down and read that manual you posted above, whether you spend the money to get a paper one, or a CD, PDF, whatever. Read it while nature calls, or before bed, at breakfast, something. There's 13 pages here of you not knowing what the heck is going on with a piece of farm equipment. I get we all learn how to farm at some point in our lives but in my opinion, from what I've read here, please read the book and understand some stuff before you or someone you love gets hurt by you operating a machine you have no clue about. Same goes for your 1066. I mean that in the most respectable, honest, non-Jack a**way I can say it. 

Sorry, 11 pages, feels like 13. 

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