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MX110 preparation to cold start


CenTx5088
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If the cranking system is up to the job it will start. At those temps I prefer have my MX Maxxums plugged in but they will start without that down near enough to 0* F.  
 

Edit to add. You should have something better than straight #2 diesel in the tank. Either at least 30% #1, or a full rate of diesel fuel treatment, or in the worst case if those options aren’t available add about 2-3% gasoline. Straight untreated #2 begins to give me filter trouble at temps consistently below 20*, I can treat with white bottle Power Service and be OK with straight 2 down about to zero. The first filter to plug if the fuel starts waxing will be the small  inline filter. Blending or additives need to be done when the fuel is still warmish yet, like in the 30s. 

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29 minutes ago, Gearclash said:

If the cranking system is up to the job it will start. At those temps I prefer have my MX Maxxums plugged in but they will start without that down near enough to 0* F.  

Thanks. Puts me a little more at ease. 

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We have one. Excellent starting tractor. In the teens it should fire right up. If battery is questionable, maybe hook jumper cables to it before you even try. It has lugs that stick out past the starter, easy to get at with cables, don’t even need to open the hood.  

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Maybe a dumb question.  Do you have antifreeze in the rad or straight water?

Should probably do a quick test to make sure.  Cheap insurance against a cracked block/broken rad.

 

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Is it a Perkins or Cummins? Does it have a grid intake heater ? 

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Some start easily at that temp some not, depends on how good the compression is. You can put a can of ether on it if your dealer has any there. Procedure for ether use: turn key on, push ether button 2 seconds. Open throttle half way, start cranking, every 3 second of cranking quickly tap the ether button again, it will fire up, pull throttle to idle. Tranny will be slow to engage with cold oil, just got to wait when you let the clutch out.

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8 hours ago, Gearclash said:

If the cranking system is up to the job it will start. At those temps I prefer have my MX Maxxums plugged in but they will start without that down near enough to 0* F.  
 

Edit to add. You should have something better than straight #2 diesel in the tank. Either at least 30% #1, or a full rate of diesel fuel treatment, or in the worst case if those options aren’t available add about 2-3% gasoline. Straight untreated #2 begins to give me filter trouble at temps consistently below 20*, I can treat with white bottle Power Service and be OK with straight 2 down about to zero. The first filter to plug if the fuel starts waxing will be the small  inline filter. Blending or additives need to be done when the fuel is still warmish yet, like in the 30s. 

 

55 minutes ago, midnightman said:

Might be just me, but I’m against any gas in my diesels, and starting them at -40 isn’t a big deal

We had a winter years ago that we were having trouble with gelling. We have since switched suppliers and add additional additive year round. But I had stopped by the local garage and my neighbor had a few school busses and he said up to 40% kerosene added when needed. Another old guy there had spent time in Alaska and he said they use. 1% gasoline in the diesel at times . The important thing with any fuel cut by something else is to use it up before warm weather. 

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11 hours ago, Torque said:

Some start easily at that temp some not, depends on how good the compression is. You can put a can of ether on it if your dealer has any there. Procedure for ether use: turn key on, push ether button 2 seconds. Open throttle half way, start cranking, every 3 second of cranking quickly tap the ether button again, it will fire up, pull throttle to idle. Tranny will be slow to engage with cold oil, just got to wait when you let the clutch out.

Jeebus that sounds like a lot of ether to me. We only ever have to tap the ether button once and it's more than enough to make the engines make this awful death rattle until it clears the ether out and starts running on pure diesel. Both Cummins engines do it. The DT436s do it. The D407 does it. The D360 does it.

IMHO, no need to go full "Zip Ties and Bias Plies" on it. Save that for the old worn out Detroit. Start cranking, if it doesn't fire right away, give the ether button a tap. Should pop right off.

Of course being Texas I doubt if the tractor even has ether injection.

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19 hours ago, Gearclash said:

If the cranking system is up to the job it will start. At those temps I prefer have my MX Maxxums plugged in but they will start without that down near enough to 0* F.  
 

Edit to add. You should have something better than straight #2 diesel in the tank. Either at least 30% #1, or a full rate of diesel fuel treatment, or in the worst case if those options aren’t available add about 2-3% gasoline. Straight untreated #2 begins to give me filter trouble at temps consistently below 20*, I can treat with white bottle Power Service and be OK with straight 2 down about to zero. The first filter to plug if the fuel starts waxing will be the small  inline filter. Blending or additives need to be done when the fuel is still warmish yet, like in the 30s. 

Thanks!

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19 hours ago, Gearclash said:

If the cranking system is up to the job it will start. At those temps I prefer have my MX Maxxums plugged in but they will start without that down near enough to 0* F.  
 

Edit to add. You should have something better than straight #2 diesel in the tank. Either at least 30% #1, or a full rate of diesel fuel treatment, or in the worst case if those options aren’t available add about 2-3% gasoline. Straight untreated #2 begins to give me filter trouble at temps consistently below 20*, I can treat with white bottle Power Service and be OK with straight 2 down about to zero. The first filter to plug if the fuel starts waxing will be the small  inline filter. Blending or additives need to be done when the fuel is still warmish yet, like in the 30s. 

 

16 hours ago, bitty said:

Is it a Perkins or Cummins? Does it have a grid intake heater ? 

Cummings. Not sure about the heater. Doubtful.  

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17 hours ago, Mudfly said:

Maybe a dumb question.  Do you have antifreeze in the rad or straight water?

Should probably do a quick test to make sure.  Cheap insurance against a cracked block/broken rad.

 

Antifreeze.  We are on that part. 

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a mx110 should have an ether button, might not have a can in the holder, but I have yet to see a mx110 without ether.  I believe all the newer tractors have a grid heater so the ether isn't needed nor suggested.  If it has a block heater plug it in and that tractor will fire right up.  Even if it's not plugged in it should start.  All three of out mx120s have no problem with that temp, even out mx170 (which is hard starting) will start pretty good at 15 deg

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I am not aware of any MX Maxxum that has a grid heater.  The Euro spec models have some sort of goofy starting aid thing in the intake manifold that uses electricity and diesel fuel whose function I have yet to understand.  But there is no grid heater like the 5.9 in the pickups have, nor glow plugs.  Any engine in a genuine CIH MX100-170 will be the CDC equivalent of the Cummins 5.9.

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38 minutes ago, Gearclash said:

I am not aware of any MX Maxxum that has a grid heater.  The Euro spec models have some sort of goofy starting aid thing in the intake manifold that uses electricity and diesel fuel whose function I have yet to understand.  But there is no grid heater like the 5.9 in the pickups have, nor glow plugs.  Any engine in a genuine CIH MX100-170 will be the CDC equivalent of the Cummins 5.9.

Our 465 skid loader had and the MX 230 also has . I was just worried about it could possibly and a snort of either causes problems then 

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3 hours ago, maxxum 140 said:

I have yet to see a mx110 without ether.

You live in Northern South Dakota.

The OP is in Texas... I believe the cold weather starting kit (i.e. the ether can) is optional, but comes commonly equipped on tractors sold in Northern states.

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My .02.....  go through and pull your battery cables and clean them. Load test your batteries. Inspect your cables. Fix all above mentioned to be 100%   dump in the fuel treatment of your choice ahead of time. If yours has a grid heater make sure it actually works, or at least is getting voltage to it. Next use your tractor. 

Pick up a can of ether just incase and youll be fine. 

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2 hours ago, Matt Kirsch said:

You live in Northern South Dakota.

The OP is in Texas... I believe the cold weather starting kit (i.e. the ether can) is optional, but comes commonly equipped on tractors sold in Northern states.

I can remember we got a new 5250 series Maxxum from Louisiana(?) in the mid-1990s that was NOT equipped for our Northern climates. One battery instead of two like we normally had up here, no block heater, no ether can, either. What was even more interesting was that it came in with no tires as the plant was short on tires(seems like there was a worldwide shortage of tires at the time for some reason). The tractor had wooden blocks fastened around the circumference of the rims, and there was a big note fastened to the windshield advising a speed of no more than 2MPH until tires were installed. 

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5 hours ago, Gearclash said:

  The Euro spec models have some sort of goofy starting aid thing in the intake manifold that uses electricity and diesel fuel whose function I have yet to understand.  

Have heard of it referred to as a "flame-primer system", or New Holland called it "Thermostart". Its a coil that heats up cherry red and then diesel fuel is sprayed onto the coil, causing it to vaporize immediately. When you crank the engine, this vaporized diesel fuel acts like a poor man's ether when it gets into the cylinder. Actually, it works pretty well. Your New Holland TM tractor should have had it...before you started the tractor, you turned the keyswitch backwards one click to activate the Thermostart system, then a light on the dash(similar to a glow plug indicator light) would come on for a few seconds, indicating that the Thermostart system was going through its warmup cycle. After the light went out, you started the engine in a normal manner. Belarus tractors had something similar, except they specified kerosene instead of diesel fuel for the fuel. 

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19 minutes ago, SDman said:

I can remember we got a new 5250 series Maxxum from Louisiana(?) in the mid-1990s that was NOT equipped for our Northern climates. One battery instead of two like we normally had up here, no block heater, no ether can, either. What was even more interesting was that it came in with no tires as the plant was short on tires(seems like there was a worldwide shortage of tires at the time for some reason). The tractor had wooden blocks fastened around the circumference of the rims, and there was a big note fastened to the windshield advising a speed of no more than 2MPH until tires were installed. 

Now that you mention it, I seem to recall that Dad had to have the dealer install ether on the 5240 when he bought it. It has a single group 31 battery, but it starts just fine in any weather, despite the two times I turned the key to accessory and ran the battery down.

The 5220 was bought new here, has dual batteries, and came equipped with ether injection. It turns over hard with two fresh batteries but it fires right up. A single group 31 won't turn it over.

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6 hours ago, SDman said:

Your New Holland TM tractor should have had it

I can’t remember if it had it or not.  If it worked by turning the key backwards, I most likely never used it.  One of the few virtues that tractor had was decent cold starting.  Otherwise I am all too happy to forget I owned it.  Still haven’t forgotten the fall the air filter started plugging with dust too frequently.  After some head scratching I discovered the flex hose that connects the dust separator to the exhaust venturi was made of such cheap material that it was cracked in multiple places and leaking so bad that it rendered the separator ineffective.  

My MX150 (European) has the flame start system but it apparently doesn’t work.  Not a problem really as it starts well enough.  I can’t remember that I’ve ever used ether on a 5.9 engine.  Go through a can or two of 20% a year for my Case 1835B (188D) and 856, and need a can of 50% for the Detroit 4-53 in my crane.

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